LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

il^ap. Snp^rig]^ !f o. 

8h.elf.'3JA 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



HINTS AND POINTS 



FOR SPORTSMEN 



COMPILED BY "SENECA." 




New York: 

Forest and Stream Publishing Company, 

1889. 



Copyright, i88g, by the Forest and Stream Publishing Co. 






INDEX 



Aim at Flying Game 38 

Aim at Flying Targets 33 

Aiming, Hunting Rifle 73 

Aiming Practice 31 

Aiming, Rifle Practice 73 

Alcohol Stoves 363 

Ail-Round Guns 96 

Ail-Round Rifle 97 

Angler's Knot, Bowline 323 

Arm, Broken. 516 

Arm, Wounded 511 

Autumn Leaves, Preserving. 6D0 

Backing 435 

Bags, Waterproof 400 

Bait, Carp 244 

Bait, Black Chub 238 

Bait, Clam 250 

Bait, Earth Worm 240 

Bait for Trout, Mice 243 

Bait, Grasshopper. . . .289 

Ba't, Home-made 343 

Bait, Live. 251 

Bait, Lobster 247 

Bait, Pike 245 

Bait, Ravr Beef 241 

Bail, Sand worm 2i9 

Bait, Shedder Crabs 246 

Bait, Shrimp 248 

Baiting Steel Traps 195 

Baking Powder 385 

Balance of Gun 54 

Ballast, Care of 461 

Barrel, Keep Clean 74 

Barrel, Leaded 11 

Barrel, Length 53 

Barrels, Bluing 91 

Bay Bird Shooting 186 

Bay Bird Shooting Blinds. ... 183 

Bay Bird Stools 184 

Bay Bird Stooling 185 

Beestings... 497 

Bird About Alight 1:37 

Bird Coming Head On 128 

Birds' Flight 117 

Birds Marked Down 1P5 

Birds, Marking Down 134 

Birds, Moulting 602 

Birds Rising to Flight r.:6 

Birds' Speed 118 

Birdg, To Cook Small 204 



Birds, To Preserve Dead 188 

Biscuit, Maryland 381 

BiteofMadDog 426 

BiteofSnake 498 

Black Bass Chub Bait 238 

Black Bass Flies 218 

Black Bass Fl y-Fishing 314 

Black Bass in Pairs.. 231 

Black Bass in Still Wiiter. ... 220 
Black Bass Minnow i ishing.217 
Black Bass, Large - Mouth 

and Small-Mouth 581 

Black Bass, Size, Weight.319-330 

Black Bass Striking 315 

Black Bass, to Play 316 

Black Bass Trolling 219 

Black Bass, Viscera of 5«0 

Bleaching Sails 450 

Bleeding Fish 833 

Bleeding from the Nose 493 

Blinds for Bay Birds 183 

Blistered Feet 489 

Bluing Barrels 91 

Boats' Bottoms, Pot-ieading..449 
Boat Built in Three Hours. . .483 

Boat for Live Bait 309 

Boats, How to Clean 446 

Boats in Winter 451 

Boat Tent 481 

Boats, Varnishing 447 

Boarding a Yacht 477 

Bob for Eels 234, 236 

Boots, Stifle 404 

Boots, Waterproof c98 

Boots, Wet 405 

Bowline Knot 455 

Boxing the Compass 467 

Brass Shells, Cleaning. 13 

Broken Limbs 515 

Broken Rod Guiles . . .286 

Browning Gun Barrels 66 

Bruises 505 

Buckshot in Chokeb Dres 46 

Buckshot in Cylinder-Bores.. 45 

Bullets 77,78,79 

Bullet, Split 566 

Bullet, Tubular 567 

Buoys 471 

Burns 506 

Butter in Camp 388 

Butt, Hold Firmly 43 



INDEX. 



Camp Cooking 586 

KNj Carap Cooking Range 359 

^ v' Camp Fire 343,344 

^ Camp Hints 584 

\Camp Lodge 347 
Camp Outnt 337, 341 
CampOven 364 

Campsite 343,590 

Camp Spring Bed — 351 

\ Camp Stove 360 

Canned Goods 387 

Canned Soups 386 

Canvas Boats, Watei-proofing 480 

Canvas Canoe 478 

Canvas Canoes, Paint 479 

Cape, Waterproof 594 

Carp as Bait 244 

Carp Fishing 227, 228, 229 

Carrying Gun 101 

Cartridge, Creased 561 

Cartridge, Indented 560 

Cartridges, Loose Shot in.... 57 
art ridge. Reamed 559 

Cartridge, Rifle 564 

Cartridges, Wire. 47 

Cartridges, Wood Powder . . .558 
Casting Against the Wind. . .272 

Casting Line Knot 324 

Casting Line Fly Loop 325 

Casting Minnow 281 

Cast, How to Rig 260 

Casting Sidewise 273 

Cauiion in Fly-Fishing 278 

Cement, Rubber 392, 393 

Chapped Hands 488 

Cnarges and Patterns 113 

Charges, Chamberlin 114= 

Charges for 6-Gauge 115 

Charges for 10-Gauge Ill 

Charges for 12-Gauge 113 

Charges for Small Gauges 110 

Charges, Proportionate 23 

Chilled Shot 116 

Chokebore 50 

Chumming .230 

Chumming Fish Oil 231 

Clam Bait 250 

Clam Chowder 371 

Cleaning a Foul Gun 10 

Cleaning Brass Shells 12 

Cleaning Cutlery 390 

Cleaning Rod 9 

Clothing for Camp 338 

Clothes, Hunting , 98 

Coffee 365 

Cold Tea 438, 585 

Cold Feet.... 490 

Collar Bone Broken 520 

Color of Leaders 276 

Compass in the Woods 403 

Cooking Utensils for Camp... 339 



Cooking Vegetables, Time 

Table 376 

Cooling Healed Guns 55 

Cordage Fabrics, Waterproof 399 

Cork Floats 303 

Cornmeal Mush 378 

Cover Shooting with Rifle.. ..149 

Crabs, To Preserve 253 

Cramps 504 

Crawfish Bait 576 

Crawfish, To Preserve 255 

Crook of Stock 52 

Cure-all 4S5 

Dead-falls 194 

Decoys 177 

Decoys, Diving 180 

Decoy Ducks, Live 179 

Decoys, Paint for 178 

Deer and Moonlight 158 

Deer, Dead 156 

Deer Dead In Water 157 

Deer, Hanging up 159 

Deer, Hounding 153 

Deer, Slow Tracking 155 

Deer, Still-hunting 154 

Dew Claws, Removing ... .421 

Diarrhoea 491 

Dish Washing 391 

Dislocations 503 

Distance in Shooting 36 

Diving Decoys .180 

Dobsoa Bait 235 

Dog 103 

Dog Breeding 431 

Dogs, Breaking in i43 

Dog Breaking Shot 444 

Dog, Care of Pups 410 

Dog Chasing 445 

Dog, Chicken Killing Habit.. 417 

Dogs, Cockers, Care of 414 

Dogs, Cockers. Training 415 

Dogs, Distemper 428 

Dogs, Emetic for 423 

Dogs, False Pointing 442 

Dogs, Feeding Pups 411 

Dogs' Feet 420 

Dogs, Fleas and Lice 439, 595 

Dogs, Fighting 483 

Dog, Gun Shy 572 

Dog, Gun Shyness 416, 673 

Dogs in the Field 409 

Dog, Mad 496 

Dogs, Mange in 427 

Dog, M ursing Sick 423 

Dog, Obedience 440 

Dog on Chain 569 

Dog, Pace in Field Work 434 

Dogs, Poisoned 426 

Dog, Quartering 439 

Dogs Ranging in Field 438 



IV 



INDEX. 



Dogs, Remedies for Fleas and 

Lice on 596 

Dog, Retrieving 441 

Dog Rules for Field Trials. . .433 

Dog, Staunchness 487 

Dog, Style in Field 436 

Dogs, Teaching Pups to Take 

to Water 413 

Dog's Temperature. 568 

Dog, To Kill Humanely 570 

Dog, To Give Pills 434= 

Dog Whip, The 259 

Dog, Worms in Puppies 413 

"Don't" 68 

Droppers, How to Attach — 263 

Dubbing 531 

Duck Call 167 

Ducks, Edible Species 175 

Ducks, Fish- Eating 383 

Ducks, Flight of.. 173, 173 

Ducks, Power of Scent 174 

Duck Shooting 171 

Ducks, Shooting Blinds for. .176 

Ducks, Toling 181 

Dye for Leaders 291 

Dyeing Lines 290 

Earthworm Bait 240 

Edible Species of Duck 175 

Eel, How to Hold 313 

Eels, How to Skill 314, 315 

Eight Bells 465 

Emetic 486 

Estimating Distance 146 

Fair Weather Indications . . .335 
Fastening and Wrapp g Flies . 547 

Feet, Blistered 489 

Feet, Cold 490 

Fence Climbing 103 

Ferns, Preserving. 598 

Field Manners 99 

Field Trial Rules 133 

File, Carry a 305 

Fire for Cooking 358 

Fire, Lighting with a Gun. . .403 

Fish After Storm 208 

Fish, Bleeding 333 

Fish Box, Permanent 310 

Fish, Broiling. 368 

Fish Fin Wound 514 

Fish, Fried 369 

Fish, Frozen 383 

Fish, Haunts of -..215 

Fish, How to Kill 313 

Fi ^h in Spring. 209 

Fish, Kill When Caught.... 311 

Fish Lie Preventive 331 

Fish Oil in Chumming 231 

Fish on Clear Days 203 

Fu^h on Cold Days 207 



Fish, Parts of 578,5 9 

Fish, Planked. . . 870 

Fish, Size and Weight.. . ..... 317 

Fish Stringer .330 

Fishing and the Moon 211 

Fishing, Black Bass 217 

Fishing, Carp 237, 228, 229 

Fish, How to Play 213 

Fishing, Lake Trout 223 

Fishing Outfit 306 

Fishing Raft ..308 

Fishing, Rock Bass 226 

Fishing, the Sun's Position... 210 

Five-Knot Breeze 468 

Fleas and Lice on Dogs. .595, 596 

Flies for Bass 218 

Flies, Salmon 548 

Flies, To Attach 327 

Flight of Ducks 172, 173 

Floats, Cork 303 

Flock Shooting 125 

Fly-Books, Moths in 301 

Fly-Casting Lessons 269 

Fly-Casting S rike 271 

Fly-Fishing, Points in 270 

Fly-Fishing, Caution in 278 

Fly-Fishing for Bass 214 

Fly-Fishing in Smooth Waler280 
Fly-Fishing, Landing Nets. ..279 

Fly, How to Sink 277 

Fly Loop and Casting Line.. .325 

Fly, Nicholson 550 

Fly, Parts of the Salmon 549 

Fly Philosophy 274 

Fly-Rod Material, Compara- 
tive Weights 316 

Fly, Size of 275 

Fly-Tying 553 

Folding Cooking Range 362 

Foot Gear for the Woods 406 

Forearm, Broken. 517 

Fowler's Terms 193 

Foxes, Trap for 199,200 

Fractured Gut 394 

Frost Bite 508 

Fumigating Kennels 419 

Game by Express 191 

Game in Camp 588 

Game in General 95 

Game, Loads for 556 

Game, Roasting 373 

Game, Stewed 373 

Game, To Keep 587 

Game, To Par-k. 589 

Game, To Preserve Dead.. . . 189 

Gauge, Large 51 

Gauge Numbers 64 

Get a Doctor.... 483 

Gimping Hooks 265 

Grasshopper Bait 239 



INDEX. 



Grounding 470 

Grouse, Loads for 109 

Grouse, Pinnated 160 

(irouse, fluffed 161 

Grouse, Treeing 163 

Gun, All-Kound 96 

Gun, Balance of 54 

Gun Barrel Browning 66 

Gun, Care of 8 

Gun, Carrying 101 

Gun Cleaner for the Field. . . .555 

Gun, Cleaning 10 

GunStCooUng Heated 55 

Gun, Fit of a 4 

Gun Locks 13 

Gun, Parts 2)i 

Guns, Small-Gauge Charges. 110 

Guns, 6-Gauge Charges 115 

Guns, 10- Gauge Charges Ill 

Guns, 12-Gauge Charges 113 

Gun, To Carry 3 

Gun, To Choose 1 

Gun, To Make Scatter 49 

Gun,ToHand]e 3 

Gut 529 

Gut, Fractured 294 

Gut, Never Use Dry 328 

Gut, Preserving 292 

Gut, Rusted 293 

Gut, To Soften 295 

Hackles 533 

Hackl*^s, Palmer 538 

Hackle, How to Tie 535 

Hackle with Tinstl 536 

Hands, Chapped 488 

Hand, Wounded 510 

Handy Tool 401 

Hanging up a Deer 159 

Hatchet, Hunting 611 

Haunts for Fish 205 

Head. Wounded 513 

Heaving the Hand LfacJ. 464 

Hillside Shooting witJi Rifle. 145 

Holding Ahead 32, 122 

Home-made Bait 243 

Hooking Minnow Bcdt 257 

Hooks , 331 

Hooks, How to Snen.265, 263, 267 

Hooks, Shape of. 538 

Hooks, Snooding ~68 

Horse, to Kill Humanely 571 

Hounding Deer 153 

Hunting Clothes 98 

Hunting Hatchet 611 

Hunting in Company 100 

Hunting Rifle Qualifications. 69 

Ice Yacht, To Build 606 

Igaition of Powder 90 

Insect Hood, Shanty-made .. .600 



Insect Repellent 354, 355 

Ivy Poison 493, 494 

Jerked Venison 384 

Johnny Cake 379 

Kennel and Yard, Plan 418 

Kennel, Fumigating 419 

Kennels, Care of 597 

Killing a Wounded Bird 187 

Killing Fish 313 

Kinking Lines 3C0 

Knot 609 

Knot, Anchor 459 

Knot for Casting Lines 324 

Knot for Snood Loops 261 

Knot, Square or Reef 456 

Lake Trolling 223 

Lake Trout Fishing 222 

Landing Net forFly-Fishing.279 

Leaded Barrels 11 

Leaders, Color of 276 

Leaders, How to Dye 291 

Leaks, To Stop 473 

Leather, Waterproof 397 

Leaves, Preserving 599 

Leg, Broken 519 

Leg, Wounded 512 

Length of Barrels 53 

Lessons in Fly-Casting 2G9 

Lice 429 

Life Preservers . . .610 

Lights on Boats 476 

Limbs Broken. 515 

Linen, Waterproofing 396 

Line, How to Waterproof . . . . 2P7 

Lines, How to Attach 327 

Lines, How to Dye 290 

Lines, Kinking 300 

Line of Sight 82 

Live Bait.. 251 

Live Bait Boat 309 

Live Decoy Ducks 179 

Loading 7 

Loading for Grouse Shooting 109 

Loading tlie Rifle 70 

Locks, Dirty 14 

Loons, Shooting. 165 

Loose Shot in Cartridges — . 57 
Lures for Duck Shooting 176 

Match Safe 591 

Materials for Fly-Making . . . 525 

Materials for Salmon Fly 551 

Magazine Rifles on Game — 142 

Marking Down Birds 134 

Measuring Gun Stocks 63 

Measure, Powder 65 

Medicines, Dog, to Adminis- 
ter 435 



VI 



INDEX. 



Mice for Trout 242 

Mildewed Tents 394 

Mink Trap 197,198 

Minnow Bait, How to Hook . .257 

McManud Sea Anchor 475 

Minnow-Casting 281 

Minnow Decoys 258 

Minnow Fishing for Bass — 217 
Minnows, Kept in Fruit Jar. 254 

Minnow Life Preserver 5S3 

Minnow iSef, Pocket 307 

Minnows, Preserving 252, 253 

Mosquito Gauntlet? 353 

Mosquito Net for Hexd 352 

Mosquito Preventive 593 

Mosquito Proof Tent 3'50 

Mosquito Smudge 356, 357 

Moths in Fly-Books. 301 

Muscles, Kuptured 503 

Net, How to Preserve 332 

Net for Minnow 307 

Nicholson Fly 550 

Night Shelter 345 

Nose Bleeding 492 

Oil for Stocks 16 

Oil Stov^e 361 

Oil Vegetable 15 

Ornithologists' Terms GUI 

Otter, Trap for 201 

Otter Trapping 573, 574, 575 

Otter Trapping in Winter.. . .202 

Outfit for Camp 337 

Oven for Camp. 364 

Over -S booting Game with 
Rifle 147 

Paint for Canvas Canoes. — 479 

Piint for Decoys 178 

Paint or Putty, To Remove. .448 

Pattern 25 

Pattern Test 27 

Penetration Test 28 

Perch on the Fly 224 

Pickerel Fishing ttirough Icr.233 

Pickerel Trolhng. 232 

Pinnated Grouse 16 J 

Pistols 92 

Pistol Practice 94 

Playing a Fish 212 

Playing a Bass 216 

Point-Blank 84, 85, 86, 87, 88 

Points in Fly-Fishing 270 

Poison Ivy 493, 494 

Poisoning from Poison Su- 
mac 495 

Pork and Beans 374 

Port 462 

Position of the Reel 283 

Potatoes, Roast 377 



Pot-Leading Boats' Bottoms. 449 

Powder for Rifle 76 

Powder , 106 

Powder Ignition 90 

Po wder Measure — 65 

Powder, Smokeless 107 

Powder, Too Much 44 

Practice for Running Rifle 

Shots 139 

Practice in Aiming 72 

Practice Shooting 30 

Preserving Crabs 256 

Preserving Dead Buds 188 

Preserving Frcgs and Craw- 
fish. 255 

Preserving Gut 292 

Preserving Killed Game — 189 

Preserving Minnows 252, 25 J 

Provisions for Camping 349 

Pull of Triggers 56 

Punt, The £04 

Putting Away Rods 285 

Quail Hunting 163 

Quail, Weight of 190 

Raft for Fishing 308 

Rain Indications 33 i 

Range, Folding 3b2 

Range for Camp Cooking 359 

Range of Revolver 93 

Rat Trap 203 

Raw Beef Bait 241 

Raw Hides, How to Care 592 

Recoil 39 

Recoil in Rifles ^0 

Reef Knot 456 

Reel Line and Casting Knot. 326 

Reel, Position of 282 

Restoring tho Apparently 

Drowned 523 

Revolver, Range of vi3 

Ribs, Broken 521 

Rifle, Ali-Round 97 

Rifle Bullets 77 

Rifle, Estimating Distance... 146 

Rifle, Hillside Shooting 145 

Rifle Hint3 for Shotgun 

Hunters 136 

Rifle, Hunting, Aiming the.. 73 

Rifle Loading 70 

Rifle, Magazine, on Game.. ..142 

Rifle on Deer 150 

Rifle on Deers and Hares — 153 
Rifle on Game Down Hill. ... 144 

Rifle, Overshooting 147 

Rifle Positions, Long Range. 565 
Rifle Practice for Running 

Shots 139 

Rifle, Qualification for Hunt- 
ing 69 



INDEX. 



Vll 



Rifle Recoil. 80 

Rifle Shooting, Windage Al- 
lowance 81 

Rifle Shooting 71 

Rifle Shooting at ]Sight 148 

Rifle Shooting, Coolness in. . .141 

Rifle Shootingin Cover 149 

Rifle Sights lor Hunring 1«37 

Rifle, Throwing Ahead of 

Game 138 

Rigging the Cast 260 

Rising Shots UQ 

Rock B^ss ITish ng 2:6 

Rod Guides, Broken 286 

Rods, How to Fat Awav 2S5 

Rod, Varn sh for .287, 283 

Rods, Varnishitig 2S9 

Rod with Tight Joints 284 

Ropes and Riggiiig 451 

Rubber Oemeit .392, 393 

Ruffed Grouse Hab ts 161 

Rules for Sailing 474 

Running Rifle Shots 140 

Rust 17 

Rust Eradicator 21 

Rust from Salt Air or Water. 19 

RustedGut 293 

Rusty Ivnives 389 

Rust Preventive 18 

Rust, Protection Against 20 

Sails, How to Bleach 450 

Sail, Parts of 46 J 

Sailing Mules 474 

Sailors' Two Half-hit jh Knot.454 

Salmon .213 

Salmon Flies 548 

Salt Pork, i^'ried 367 

Sandworm Bait 249 

Sawdust m Kennels 430 

Scalds 507 

Scissors in Fly-Making 553 

Scow, to Build 603 

Sea Anchor, McManus 475 

Separating Fighting Do3S .... 433 

Shad Fly. 225 

Sneep-Shank 460 

Shed, Camp 346 

Shedder Crab Bait 246 

Shedder Lobster Bait ".^47 

Sheet-Bend 458 

Sheet Lead Sinkers — 3C4 

Shells 24 

Shells, Crimping 563 

Shells, Tight 554 

Shelter for the Night .343 

Shiny Powder 43 

Shoes, Wadir.g 407 

Shooting at Moving Targets. 37 
Shooting Bevond Point Blankl43 
Shooting Bounding Deer 151 



Shooting Distance 36 

Shooting, First Lesson 5 

Shooting Loons 165 

Shooting on the Wing 119 

Shooting one Barrel 132 

Shooting over a Pointing Dog.133 

Shooting Rifle 71 

Shooting, Second Lesson 6 

Shooting Snipe 164 

Shoot with Both Eyes Open. . "4 

Shot 5/ 

Shot Charge Increasing 4^ 

S ot. Chill d 116 

Shot in Rifle; 89 

Shots Rigat or Ltft 131 

Shots, Rising 129 

Shots, Sizes of 67 

Shot, Straightaway 130 

Shot, Velocity of. 40 

Shot, Velocity, Different. ... 41 

Shrimp Bait 248 

Sight in Aiming 35 

Sights for Hunting Rifle 137 

Silk Line, How to Water- 

' proof 298,299 

SinKbont 182,607 

Sinkers, Sheet Lead 304 

Sink the Fly 277 

Size of Flies 275 

Size and Weight of Black 

Bass 319.320 

Size and Weight of Fish 317 

Sizes of Shot, Table 67 

Skiff, The 605 

Skinning Eels 314, 315 

Skittering 237 

Slapjacks 380 

Sleeping Bag 349 

Sleeping Out 348 

Slow Tracking Deer 155 

Small Birds, To Cook 2C4 

Smelt Fishing 582 

Snake Bite 498 

Sneakbox ....608 

Snelling Hooks 265, 266, 267 

Smudge for Mosquitoes. .356, 357 

Snells, How to Soften 286 

Snipe Shooting 164 

Snipe Whistle 168 

Snooding Hooks 268 

Snood Loops Knot 261 

Soften Snells 296 

Soften Silk Gut 295 

Soup, Canned 386 

Spars in Winter 452 

Speed of Birds 118 

Sprains 501 

Springing a Leak 473 

Springbed f ir C imp 351 

Square or Reef Knot 456 

Starboard 463 



Vlll 



INDEX. 



still-Hunting Deer lo4 

Stock, Crook of 52 

Stocking Trout Streams 329 

Stocks, To Color 60 

Stocks, To Color Brown 61 

Stocks, To Measure . . 63 

Stocks, Varnish for 63 

Stomach, Empty 484 

Stools for Bay Birds 184 

Stoohng Bay Birds 185 

Stopping Leaks 473 

Stove, Alcohol S63 

Stove for Camp o60 

Stove, Oil 361 

Strike in Flv-Casting 271 

Striking a Black Bass 315 

Sumac Poison 495 

Sunburn 487 

Sunstroke 500 

Sure Bait for Pike 345 

Swelling Rod Joints. 383 

Table of Charges and Pat- 
terns 113 

Table of Chamberlin Chargesll4 
Table Proportionate Charges 2 

Tails of Flies 546 

Targets, Creedmoor 563 

Targets for Cylinder and 

Choke Guns 26 

Target-Shooting, Slow 75 

Tea 366,585 

Tents. Mildewed 39-: 

Tent, Mosquito Proof 350 

Tents, Wau rproofing 395 

Thigh, Broken 518 

Tight Wads 48 

Timber Hitch 457 

Tinsel 530 

Tight Joints in Rod 284 

Toliug Duels s 181 

Tools for Fly-Making 524 

Trajectory 83 

Traps, Baiting Steel 195 

Traps, Clean 196 

Trap for Foxes 199, 200 

Trap for Mihk 197, 198 

Trap for Otter 201 

Trap for Rats 203 

Trapping Otter 573 

Trapping Otter, Land Set ...575 
Trapping Otter, Water Set.. .574 

Trapping Otter in Winter 202 

Trapping Season 193 

Treeing Grouse 162 

Trespass 105 

Trigger for Running Rifle 

Shots 140 

Trigeers, Pull of 56 

Troiling for Bass 219 

Trolling for Lake Trout 223 



Trolling for Pickerel 232 

Trout Food... 333 

Trout Streams, Stocking 329 

Trout Temperature 577 

Trout, To Preserve 318, 323 

Turkey Calls 169, 170 

Tying a Hackle 535 

Unconsciousness frcm In- 
jury 499 

Varnish for Rods . . .287, 288. 289 

Varnish for Stocks ^62 

Vegetables 375 

Velocity of Shot 40, 41 

Velocity of Wind 469 

Venison, Jerked 384 

Vise for Guns 59 

Wads, Holding in Place 58 

Wads, Hume-Cut 108 

Wads, Tight 48 

Washing Dishes 391 

Watches 466 

Waterproof Bags 400 

Waterproofing Canvas Boats 480 

Waterproof for Boots S98 

Waterproof for Cordage Fa- 
brics 399 

Waterproof for Leather 397 

Waterproofing Line.297, 29<?, 299 

Wattiprocfing Linen 386 

Waterproofing Tents 396 

Wax 527 

Wax for Gut Leader 264 

Wax for Snelling Hooks ... .263 
Weight of Quail and Wood- 
cock 190 

Whistle for Snipe 168 

Wind 104 

Wind Indications. 334 

Windage Allowance 81 

Wings 533-540 

Wings of Flies.. .539, 541, 542, 

543, 544, 545 

Wing Shooting... 119. 121, 128, 124 

Wing Shots, Misdng 120 

Wire Ca rtridges 47 

Work Table 534 

Woodchuck 166 

Woodcock, Weight of 190 

Wounded Arm 511 

Wounded Bird, To Kill 187 

Wounded Footer Leg 513 

Wounded Hand 510 

Wounded Head or t ace 513 

Wound from Fish Fin 514 

Wounds 509 

Wrapping Silk 536 

Yachts, How to Board 477 



Chapter I. 
Guns and Shooting. 



SECTION I.— THE SHOTGUN- 

1. Clioosiiij^" a Gun.— Select a gun according to 
your game. For wildfowl only, a 10-gauge, 91b. gun, 
right barrel cylinder, left barrel choked; for wildfowl 
and smaller birds, select a lighter gun, preferably a 12- 
gauge, and if a novice, little choke is needed and more 
''scatter." Get the best gun your purse will stand. A 
cheap gun generally makes a bad shot and a disgusted 
sportsman. 

2. How to Carry a Gun. — The safest way is over 
the right shoulder, with muzzle pointing well up. The 
handiest way when game may be flushed is in the "hol- 
low" of the left arm. Never carry it so that it points 
toward yourself, your friend or your dog. 

3. Handling the Gun.— 1st, Never in excitement 
nor in fun point it toward any human being. 2d, Never 
carry it so that if accidentally discharged it would en- 
danger the life of a dog even. 3d, Always think, when 
walking, which way your gun is pointed, and if a com- 
panion is in the field with you, no matter how near and 



10 GUNS AND SHOOTINGS. 

how temptingly the game appears, do not shoot until you 
know just where he is, and that a stray shot may not 
possibly strike him, for one little pellet is sufficient to 
destroy an eye forever. 4th, Never get into a wagon 
without taking the cartridges from the gun, 5th, Never 
get over a fence without either taking the cartridges out 
or placing the gun through the fence on the ground, so 
that if you fall or the fence breaks it cannot be dis- 
charged. 6th, Always carry the gun at half-cock. 7th, 
Never let the hammers rest on the "plungers," or pieces 
which strike the cap. 8th, Never try to close it when 
the hammers are down. 9th, Never get in front of it 
yourself. If you see you are about to fall, drop the gun 
so the muzzle will be from you. Occasionally a car- 
tridge will stick after it has been fired. A stout, thin 
blade of a knife will generally extract it, if not remove 
the other cartridge, and then cut a straight stick and 
poke it out from the muzzle; but even then do not place 
your body in front of it, but content yourself with using 
the hand. 10th, After firing one barrel take the car- 
tridge from the other and examine the wad over the shot 
to see that it is not loosened by the concussion, as it very 
frequently is, which would produce a heavy recoil, and, 
if it gets up the barrel, will burst the gun, and likely 
take a hand off besides. 11th, Never take hold of the 
muzzle to draw it toward you, nor set it up, when, if 
falling, its muzzle would be toward you. Finally, follow 
all these suggestions and be self-possessed, and the fields 
will afford you sport without danger, and, I hope, with- 
out temptation. — HallocTc's Sportsman's Gazetteer. 

4. The **Fit" of a Gun.— Throw the gun to the 

shoulder as if to fire it. If the eye catches the center of 
the rib and the bead all right, the gun fits; if not, the 
stock is too straight or too bent. Another important 
point in "fit" is the length of the stock. You can't hit 
with an ill-fitting gun. 



THE SHOTGUN. 11 

5. First Lesson in Learning to Shoot.— Go out 

by yourself where you can put up some object about the 
size of your hat, say some twenty yards away. Then 
take your position and commence to throw up your gun 
to your shoulder, and, keeping your eyes open, see how 
near you can bring the bead in line with your eye and 
the object at the instant that the butt-plate touches your 
shoulder. Try this a few times and then rest a few 
minutes. Then try again, but do not fatigue yourself. 
After you can throw the gun on to the mark with your 
eyes open, shut up both eyes and throw the gun to your 
shoulder in the same manner as before, and the instant 
that you feel the butt touch your shoulder open both eyes 
and see where your gun is pointed. Keep up this practice 
until you can throw your gun into line with any object 
that you may select, whether it is above, below or on the 
same level with your eyes. — ''Iron Bamrod^ 

6. Second Lesson in Learning to Shoot.— After 
you are perfected to a satisfactory degree in the practice 
of throwing your gun up to some object, take a piece of 
paper about two feet square, and with some tacks fasten 
it up on an old shed, barn or old building, where you will 
do no damage, and then step back twenty or thirty steps 
and load your gun, cock it and hold it in position with 
the muzzle toward the ground at an angle of about forty- 
five degrees. Fix your eyes on the target, shut both eyes 
and instantly throw up your gun and fire, keeping your 
eyes closed until after the discharge. If your practice 
has been faithfully performed before this you will prob- 
ably find the paper riddled with shot, and if you do not 
you will readily see where the charge did strike, which 
will help you to remedy it at the next fire. When you 
can hit that paper (with a moderate degree of certainty) 
with your eyes closed you have more than "half the 
battle," for you have mastered the "hang" of the gun, 
and the rest is comparatively easy. — ''Iron Ramrod.'^ 



12 GUNS AND SHOOTING. 

7. LoadiDg'.— Shake powder down, then put a thin 
grease-proof wad on powder, then thick felt wad; on shot 
thin card board wad, and push firmly into position. For 
open pattern turn case full and firmly, for close pattern 
turn it only slightly. Be sure nothing comes in contact 
with the cap while loading. 

8. Care of Guus. — Never let a gun remain dirty over 
night, no matter how much exertion it may involve. 
Swab it out first with warm soap suds, after which it 
should be wiped dry. Then it should be thoroughly rub- 
bed with chamois skin or cotton flannel soaked in gas- 
oline, turpentine, benzine or kerosene, which will remove 
any particles of dirt which may resist the water and soap. 
In addition to this, the penetrating qualities of these vol- 
atile oils are such that they sink into the pores of the 
metal and act as a rust preventive. The last operation is 
a good rubbing with dry chamois skin. If the gun is a 
comparatively new one, it should be kept in a dry room, 
and occasionally looked at and rubbed out with the dry 
chamois; if it has been in use some time and is pretty 
well permeated with oil, one rubbing out two or three 
days after cleaning will be sufficient. On the locks never 
use anything but the best sperm oil, and that sparingly. 

9. Cleaning Rod. — Use a wooden cleaning rod. 
Jointed cleaning rods are handy to carry, but the metal 
ferrules are apt to scratch. 

10. Cleaning- a Foul Gun.— To clean a badly 
fouled gun insert a cork in the breech rather tightly; 
next pour some quicksilver into the barrel, shaking it 
about for a few minutes. The mercury and lead will 
form an amalgam and leave the barrel perfectly clean. 

11. ** Leaded" Barrels. — Saturate a rag with bel- 
montyle oil and rub the barrels before and after using 
and when put away for the day. To remove leading, 
warm the barrels slightly and anoint with mercurial 



THE SHOTGUN. 13 

ointment. This will form an amalgam with the lead. 
Then wipe out clean. 

12. Cleaning Brass Shells.— Clean the outside of 
brass shells with a cloth and vinegar. Leave the inside 
dirty; it will hold the wad more firmly. 

13. Gun Liocks.— Don't meddle with them often. 
Use only sufficient oil to lubricate; if too much oil be 
used it will gum on the locks. 

14. Oil and Dirt on Locks.— To remo^'e gummed 
oil and dirt on gun locks, dip a tooth brush in benzine or 
naphtha and brush lightly. 

15. Vegetable Oil.— Vegetable oil used on gun 
locks is liable to gum. 

16. Oil for Stocks.— Use raw, not boiled linseed oil 
on gun stocks. 

17. Rust.— Rust in gun barrels is ferric oxide, formed 
by oxygen coming in contact with the steel and settling 
around minute holes in its surface. If not at once eradi- 
cated these small rust spots will go on continually taking 
up oxygen and consuming the steel. 

18. Rust Preventive.— Common beef tallow (with- 
out salt) is a capital rust preventive. Apply it with a 
flannel cloth. 

19. Rust from Salt Air or Water.— To prevent 
gun barrels from rusting when hunting on or near salt 
water apply to them a light coat of thin shellac varnish. 

20. Rust Protective.— In damp climates it is cus- 
tomary, in putting away guns for the close season, to 
plug up one end of each barrel and fill with melted tal- 
low (free from salt), then wrap up in paper or cloth and 
set away as far from the ground as possible. To remove 
the tallow pour warm water upon the outside of th© 
barrels, 



14 GUNS AND SHOOTING. 

21. Rust Eratlicator. — Rust spots in barrels may 
be smoothed out with emery paste, made from three parts 
cosmoline, or oil, and one part emery. Use on a soft 
swab which fits the barrels closely. Then apply the wire 
scratch brush, and finally wash out clean. 

22. Parts of a Griiii. — Bolts — Irons which enter the 
loops or eyes of the barrel to fasten it to the stock. Bri- 
dle — A polished piece of steel which caps the tumbler, 
and is secured by screws; it also receives the scear screw. 
Butt of stock — The shouldered extremity of the stock. 
Cap — It covers the ramrod screw, but, of course, is obso- 
lete in the breechloader. Casting-off — The outward in- 
cUnation given to the butt of the gun, being intended to 
incline the line of the aim inward. Swivel — A small 
catch suspended from the neck of the tumbler to receive 
the extremity of the mainspring. Cock — This is more 
freqently called the striker or hammer. Escutcheons — 
Ornamental pieces of silver to prevent the bolts from de- 
facing the stock when the turnscrew or pincers are ap- 
plied; escutcheons are also used on other parts to receive 
initials, crests, shields, etc. False-breech — This receives 
the butt or nose of the breech when the barrel is fas- 
tened into the stock. Fence — The part between the cock 
and nipple which receives the solid cock. Guards — That 
which defends the triggers. Heel plate — The plate with 
which the butt of the stock is tipped. Lock-plate — Sup- 
ports the principal works of the lock. Loops — Eyes on 
the outside of the forepart of the stock which receive the 
bolts that fasten the barrels to the stock. Mainspring — 
That by which the tumbler is worked with the cock. 
Nipple, or pivot — The small iron pillar that receives the 
copper cap; the latter, however, is obsolete in breech- 
loaders. Pipes — Tubes to receive the ramrod; done away 
vrith, of course, in breechloaders. Rib— Central piece of 
iron which unites the barrels and receives the ramrod. 
Scroll-guard— An extension of the guard which receives 



THE SHOTGUN. 15 

the right hand m firing the gun; it is now superseded by 
the pistol-handle stock. Scear — That which catches the 
tumbler for half or whole cock, on being pushed up by 
the trigger. Scear-spring — The spring which holds the 
scear in the notches of the tumbler at either half or whole 
cock. Side-screw— A screw which fastens on the locks. 
Sight — A patch of metal, usually of silver, placed near 
the gun barrel to direct the aim. Spring-cramp — A use- 
ful instrument to assist both in taking to pieces and put- 
ting together the parts of the gun. Tail, tongue, or fin- 
ger — The neck, shoulder, or arch of lockhammer. Top- 
rib — This opposes the rib which unites the lower arches of 
the barrels; when it is very prominent behind, it is 
called the elevated rib. Trigger xDlate — The trigger 
works in it. Trigger springs — Are small springs met 
with in all locks, and are intended to keep the triggers 
close to the scear. Tumbler — The movable center-piece 
of a lock which falls with and is subservient to the cock. 
Tumbler-screw — This fastens on the cock. Vent hole — 
Used only in muzzleloaders, are intended to let out the 
gas, and are suj)posed to le-sen recoil. Worm — The screw 
at the end of the ramrod; obsolete in breechloaders. — 
Land and Water. 

23. Proportionate Charges.— -IVIajor H. W. Mer- 
rill has, after experiment, prepared the following table of 
proportionate charges for shotguns of different gauges, ' 
taking as a unit the charge of 3drs. powder and loz. shot 
for a 14-bore. The ratios, as will be seen, are constant 
quantities and may be readily used to construct other 
tables, and having more or less powder and shot accord- 
ing to fancy. Any other gauge and charge than 14 may 
be selected as a unit of measure. Having found the ratios, 
they are to be multiplied respectively by the charge of 
powder and shot contained in the charge you have as- 
sumed as correct (and the unit), this will give all the 
proportionate charges. 



16 



GUNS AND SHOOTING. 



TABLiE OF PROPORTIONATE CHARGES TOR SHOTGUNS OF 4 TO 16 
GAUGE INCIiUSIVE— TATHAM'S STANDARD SHOT NO. 6. 



Gauge 
num- 
bers. 


Diame- 
ters of 
bores. 


Areas of 
bores. 


Ratios of 

the 

Areas. 


Loads of 
powder, 
nearly. 
Drams. 


Loads of 

shot, 

nearly. 

Ounces. 


No. of 
pellets 
exactly. 


4 


1 08 


9137 


2.45 


73^ 


2^6 


534 


5 


.99 


7693 


2.06 


6^6 


2S6 


449 


6 


.93 


6783 


1.82 


51^ 


r^.. 


397 


7 


.89 


6217 


1.67 


5 


364 


8 


.85 


5652 


1.51 


n 


m 


329 


9 


.82 


5275 


1.41 


1^6 


307 


10 


.79 


4398 


1.31 


\ 


1^6 


286 


11 


.76 


4521 


1.21 




1^6 


264 


12 


.73 


4176 


1.12 


31Z 


1% 


244 


13 


.71 


3956 


1.06 


3^6 


ISe 


231 


14 


.69 


3736 


1.00 


3 


1 


218 


15 


.67 


3516 


0.94 


2^5 


15jg 


205 


16 


.65 


3228 


0.86 


2^; 


-.e 


188 



24. Shells. — Should fit the chamber in length as well 
as diameter. 



25. Pattern. — It is impossible to fix upon any one 
pattern as a standard by which to gauge the shooting 
qualities of individual guns, because of so wide a diversity 
in the degree of choke. We have, therefore, selected the 
two extremes — a cylinder bore and a very full chokebore 
— and give below sftch patterns as good guns of each class 
should make. Between the two limits of 110 for cylinder 
and 240 for extreme choke most sportsmen will probably 
find their records to accord with the divergence of their 
guns from these two bores. A cylinder bore gun loaded 
with l^oz. No. 7 shot should put 110 pellets into a 30-inch 
circle at 40 yards. An extreme chokebore gun, loaded 
with lioz. of No. 7 should put 240 pellets into a 30-inch 
circle at 40 yards. A good chokebore, such as we pre- 
fer for general shooting, should put between 180 and 200 
pellets into the same circle under the same conditions. 
There is a golden mean in pattern. While a gun that 
drives its shot packed like a bullet requires sure aim, 



THE SHOTGUN. 17 

and a big score with it counts more than with a scattering 
chamber, the game is terribly mutilated and butchered. 

26. Targ-ets for Cylinder and Chokebore 
Guns. — A cylinder bore loaded with l^oz. No. 7 shot 
should put 110 pellets into a 30-inch circle at 40 yards. 
An extreme chokebore gun, loaded with l^oz. of No. 7 
shot should put 240 pellets into a 30-inch circle at 40 yards. 
A good chokebore, for general shooting, should put 
between 180 and 200 pellets into the same circle under 
the same conditions. The patterns given above are with 
the following charges of powder: 

Twelve-Bore. Ten-Bore. 

Pounds. Drams. Pounds. Drains. 

61^ to 7 21^ to 3 7M to 8 3)4 

7 to 71^ 3 to 31^ 8 to 81^ 3i^ to 4 

71^ to 8^ 31^ to 4 8^ to 9 4 

9 to 10^ 4 to 5 

27. Pattern Tests.— To ascertain how close and 
even your gun shoots, obtain a number of sheets of ma- 
nilla paper, on each of which draw a circle 30 inches 
in diameter. Then at 40 yards' range and a fixed rest find 
out the number of shot you can put into the circle, using 
each time a different load, varying the amounts of pow- 
der and shot, respectively, the make of powder, number 
of, and kind of wads, etc. When you have discovered 
the best load, stick to it always, unless pattern is obtained 
at the expense of penetration. It is advisable, too, to in- 
crease penetration by reducing the charge of shot or in- 
creasing charge of powder. One pellet, sent with suffi- 
cient force, will kill where half a dozen may hit, but 
without enough force to penetrate to a vital point. When 
three-fourths of the number of shot in a charge can be 
put into a 30-inch circle at 40 yards the gun shoots close 
enough for ordinary work. When the guns are tested in 
the open air a sheet of paper 4 feet square at 40 yards 
should receive the charge, and a 30-inch selected circle 
marked out on it after every shot. A stationary circle 



18 GUNS AND SHOOTING. 

marked on the paper before it is shot at, is only good foi* 
trials held in a long shed or building, where no wind and 
draughts of air can deflect the loads from striking ex- 
actly in the ring. 

28. Penetration Test.— To test penetration with 
varying loads, get a long, narrow box; saw through both 
sides at intervals of one inch or less, thirty or more places, 
into which place as thick pasteboard as will fit. Knock 
out the end of the box toward you, and blaze away at the 
broadside of the pasteboard at 40 yards' range. 

29. Increasing the Shot Charge.— By increasing 
the amount of shot a better pattern is obtained, but at the 
expense of penetration. 

30. Practice Shooting-.— Load the same when 
shooting for practice as when in the field. 

31. Aiming- Practice. — Throw your gun to the 
shoulder, take aim at an object with both eyes open, and 
then close the left eye to ascertain if the gun be bearing 
directly on the object aimed at. 

32. " Holding Ahead."— Major W. McClintock, R. 
A., made some experiments in England (results published 
in the Journal of the Royal United Service Institution) 
which demonstrated that a charge of 4^ drams best C. & 
H. powder gives to No. 4 shot a muzzle velocity of 1,344 
feet. Inferior powder would, of course, give less. The 
time of flight for a velocity of 1,300 feet is. 30 yards, .093; 
40 yards, .1342; 50 yards, .1797; 60 yards, .3311, etc. This 
will about equal the velocity usually obtained from a 10- 
bore with 4^ drams of good powder and H ounces of No. 
4 shot. A bird crossing the line of fire at 30 yards dis- 
tance (flying at the rate of a mile a minute) would pass 
over about 8i feet while the shot passes through the 30 
yards. At 40 yards the bird would cover about 12 feet, at 
50 yards about 16 feet, and at 60 yards the bird would 
cover about 22 feet. 



THE SHOTGUN. 



19 



33. Aiming at Flying Targets.— The same laws 
which rule in the case of clay birds are applicable to live 
ones, and if the idea of just how to aim at the trap 
could be well impressed, the shooter would in consequence 
become more expert in the field. The solution of the 
question of how to aim ahead is a mathematical one. If 
the velocities of shot and bird and the distance of the bird 




from the shooter at the time of firing are known, then 
the gun must be held at a certain point in order that the 
center of the load and the bird may meet. The velocity 
of No. 8 shot is put down at about 800 feet per second. 
The velocity of clay-pigeons with the trap set in the 
fourth notch is about 35 feet per second, -t,i as fast as that 
of shot. In other words, while shot w^ere moving 23 feet 



20 GUNS AND SHOOTING. 

the clay bird would move 1 foot. The accompanying 
diagram will give an idea of how far to hold ahead for 
the various angles a bird takes in leaving the trap. Let 
the trap be at A and the shooter at B, and the angles be 
taken for each 30 degrees which correspond with the 12 
notches in the Ligowsky pigeon trap. Al is a dead away 
bird, and if it is not caught dodging, a man with average 
skill can easily demolish it when it reaches the summit of 
its flight by holding hard on. Earlier the aim must be a 
little above and later a little below the bird. Next take 
A 4 which leaves the trap on a line at right angles to the 
shooter. Let us suppose that when the shooter is ready 
to fire, the bird is 14 yards from the trap, and the position 
of the shooter is 18 yards from the trap. The distance of 
the bird from shooter is B 4, or say 68 feet. While the 
shot would be traveling to 4 the bird would move on the 
line A 4 nearly 3 feet further, and while this 3 feet was 
being traveled by the shot the bird again moves nearly 2 
inches. The amateur who has aimed at the bird gets a 
nice "goose egg" for his pains. The apparent position of 
the bird now, as viewed by the man at the score, is ap- 
proximately 28 inches to the right of the point where seen 
at the instant of firing. By the same calculation we 
obtain that the aim must be ahead for the angles as fol- 
lows: At ^, 14 inches; at 3, 23 inches; at S, 23 inches, and 
at 6, 13 inches. These calculations assume that the bird 
moves on a line straightaway from the trap, which is not 
always the case. They frequently make a turn to right 
or left, and this trick of theirs must be watched closely 
and aimed for accordingly. For instance, it is easy for a 
bird which leaves the trap on the line A 2 (see diagram) to 
start on a curve to the left about the time the shooter is 
beginning to press on the trigger, and in a very short time 
it becomes a straightaway bird and must be shot at. Or 
should it turn to the right the lead must be increased in 
order to hit it. Allowance must also be made for ascend- 
ing and desceuding motion of the birds. And windage i§ 



THE SHOTGUN. 21 

no trifling factor, and if high, with the successful shot, is 
always taken into account. It is probably the hardest of 
all to deal with, and on a windy day the crack shots gen- 
erally have to make excuses for their low scores. Of 
course, when the word "pull*' is given, and the bird is 
seen to take its course, the shooter has no time to figure 
out the thing exactly. There is business to attend to and 
that quickly, or the thin brick-colored chap will be seen 
to settle in the grass without the loss of a scale. A glance 
and a thought is all there is time for, and the situation 
must be taken in at once. That this can properly be done, 
this thing of shooting ahead must previously be well 
fixed in the mind. Success cannot result without it, and 
the sooner the shooter properly comprehends it, the 
sooner will he become a fair if not a crack shot. — 
W. L. P. 

34. Shoot With Both Eyes Open.— Learn to 

shoot with both eyes open. You can see better with two 
eyes than with one, and the open-eyed hunter is not apt 
to be a pottering shot. 

35. Sight in Aiming-. — In aiming at an object noth- 
ing should be seen except the gunsight and the object. If 
the top of the barrel or rib of the gun is seen you will 
shoot over your game. The sight should appear to be at 
the breech end of the barrels. 

36. Distance in Shooting. — Learn to measure dis- 
tance by the eye. Practice by estimating and then pacing 
itofle. 

37. Shooting at Moving Target.— Hold your gun 
with left hand well along the barrel. Learn to shoot 
with both eyes open. 

38. Aim at Flying Game.— Some light may be 
thrown upon the questions of whether to aim at or in front 



22 



GUNS AND SHOOTING. 



of a bird crossing the shooter by consideration of the ac- 
companying figure and its explanation. A is the position 
of the charge when fired, and B that of the bird at the 
same instant, the latter being supposed to fly from P to F 
in exactly the same time that it takes the former to go 
from AtoBF, the bird's line of flight. If the aim is along 
A F with the gun temporarily at rest, the bird passing B 
at the instant of firing, then the charge strikes the bird at 
F; if along AB, with the gun at rest, the bird will reach 
F as the charge reaches B; if the aim is along A Bat the 
instant of discharge and the gun continues to be held on 
the bird in its flight toward F, the conditions are those of 




the question principally requiring consideration. Suppose 
now that the line A B represents an indefinitely extended 
gun barrel, fired in the position AB and swung around 
with uniform velocity from the instant of discharge, so 
that when it gets into the position of AF the charge 
reaches the muzzle at F, then when the barrel is in the 
position A C the charge will be at 1; when in A D, at ^, 
and Avhen in A E, at 3. The points 1, 2 and 3 are those of 
the curved line through which the charge has to pass 
from A to F. Returning to the original conditiops: If 
A 1 represents the length of the gun barrel (held on the 
bird flying from B toward F after being fired with aim 
along A B) the charge leaves it at 1 and flies in vhe straight 



THE SHOTGUN. 



23 



line for 1 G, which is the resultant of the forward and 
angular forces and tangent to the curve at 1, and is there- 
fore outside of the path required to carry it to F. If any- 
other point of the curve Al,^3Fis taken as the muzzle of 
the gun, the breech being at A in all cases, the result 
shows the charge crossing the bird's line of flight some- 
where between B and Fat the same instant that the bird 
reaches F, and palpably chronicles a missing shot behind 
the bird. Such sucessful shots as seem to argue false 
theory in the foregoing, can generally be accounted for 
without disturbing it. In some cases the scattering of the 
shot serves to cover the error in aiming, and in others the 
gun is discharged just as it "catches up with" the bird, 
and while it is moving with a rapid angular velocity un- 
intentionally and. accidentally correct. — Corolio. 

39. Recoil. — Recoil is the retrograde motion im- 
pressed upon a piece by the pressure resulting from the 
expansive force of the gases generated by the explosion 
of the charge of powder. It begins at the moment of the 
ignition of the charge. 

40. Velocity of Shot.— Prof. T. M. Rice, of the 
U. S. Naval Academy, deduced the following from ex- 
periments with a 12 -gauge gun, 30-inch barrels, weight 
7| pounds: 



Powder. 


Drams. 


Size of 
Shot. 


Ounces. 


Range in 
feet. 


H 


2^ 


2 


li 


50 


H 


~}^ 


2 


100 


H 


2^ 




VA 


100 


D 


3 


7 


m 


100 


D 


3 


7 


m 


100 


D 


3 


7 


m 


50 


H 


2J^ 


2 


v-A 


50 



Mean Veloci- 
ty in feet per 
second. 



1,013 

865 
854 
776 
783 
855 
995 



If we assume the mean velocity of shot for 40 yards 
to be 800 feet per second, the time of flight will be 1.115 



24 



GUNS AND SHOOTING. 



seconds. A bird flying at the rate of 60 miles an hour 
goes at the rate of 88 feet per second, or 13.2 feet in 0.15 
seconds. Again, if we assume the mean velocity of shot 
for 40 yards to be 1,000 feet per second, the time of flight 
will be 0.12 seconds, and the distance traversed by the 
bird, 10.56 feet. Ducks, when going at full speed, attain 
a velocity exceeding 60 miles an houi' it would therefore 
seem that an allowance of 10 or 15 feet, in the case of a 
duck passing a point under full headway, is not too much, 
if the distance equal or exceed 35 yards. In the case of 
most double guns the elevation of the rib at the breech is 
more than sufficient to compensate for the distance through 
which the shot will fall in going 40 yards. A sight one- 
tenth of an inch in height, at 30 inches from the eye, will 
exactly cover a line 4 inches in length at a distance of 100 
feet. The elevation of the rib of most double guns is 
greater than one-tenth of an inch. 

On this subject Prof. Alfred Mayer, of the Stevens In- 
stitute of Technology, made some exhaustive experiments 
from which he deduced the following table: 

I. 10 COLT GUN, 5DBS. CURTIS & HARVEY POWDER, l^^OZ. SHOT. 



Size of sliot. 


Vel. 30yds. 


Vel. 40yds. 


Vel. 50yds. 


No. Ibuck 


1153 
1147 
1146 
1066 
1012 
995 
908 


1067 
1132 
1126 
1015 
963 
880 
803 




FF.. 

BB 




No. 3 

No. 6 

No. 8 

No. 10.. 


928 
859 
775 
716 







II. 10 COLT GUN, 4dRS. CURTIS & HARVEY POWDER, IJ4OZ. SHOT. 



No. 1 buck 


1067 
1017 
1000 
989 
966 
920 
848 


1018 
1009 
967 
911 

883 
874 
756 


967 
897 
872 
806 
776 
669 




FF 




BB 




No. 3 




No. 6 




No. 8 

No. 10 





THE SHOTGUN. 35 

III. 12 COliT GUN, 3>4DRS. CURTIS & HARVEY POWDER, l^^OZ. OF SHOT. 





863 
844 
825 
816 
796 


795 
754 
739 
749 
680 




FF 




BB 


667 


No. 3 


696 


No. 6 


600 


No. 8 


607 


No. 10 


610 



IV. 12 COI.T GUN, 4DRS 


CURTIS & HARVEY POWBER, IJ^OZ. OP SHOT. 


No. 8 


847 
784 


722 
657 


671 


No. 10 


596 







A noticeable feature of the above is the rapid increase 
in the velocity from No. 10 up to No. 3. With the heavier 
pellets the increase is less marked. 

4 1 . Velocity of Shot in DiflPerent Gauges.— The 
larger the gauge the better the penetration with a given 
load, because the same charge occupies less length in a 
large gauge than in a small one, hence there are fewer 
pellets in contact with the barrel in the former than of 
the latter to oppose by their friction the projectile force 
of the powder. Also, the powder in a lO-gauge is ex- 
ploded nearer the center of its volume, and thus does not 
have so much chance of blasting before it unburnt powder 
contained in the portion of the charge removed from the 
point of ignition. Experiments made by Prof. Mayer give 
the relative penetrations of the 10 to the 12-gauge about 
as 9 is to 7. 

42. Hold the Butt Firmly.— The moment when 
the recoil commences coincides exactly with the moment 
of the initial movement of the projectile, therefore, the 
butt of the gun should be firm against the shoulder when 
the trigger is pulled. 

43. Shiny Powder.— Powder that shines is dirtier 
than dull powder, and leaves a residue in the barrels. 



26 GUNS AND SHOOTING. 

44. Too Much Powder. — To ascertain if your 
charges contain more powder than your gun will burn, 
lay a number of sheets of white paper on the ground, say 
10 or 15 feet along from the muzzle of the gun, and then, 
having a determined load, fire it, and so catch the grains 
of unconsumed powder on the paper. 

45. Buckshot in Cylinder Bores.— If it is desira- 
ble to shoot buckshot from a cylinder bore, such size 
should be selected as will chamber loosely in the bore — 
loading them in layers— three layers, with three shot in a 
layer. If it is desirable that they should scatter, place a 
cud wad between each layer; if close shooting is desired, 
pour melted tallow over the shot after they are arranged 
in the shell. 

40. Buckshot and Ball in Chokebores.— Bul- 
lets, buckshot and all shot larger than No. 1 should not 
be discharged from a chokebore. Ball may be shot from 
some chokebores a thousand times without injury; but 
there is always liability of jamming and no one can tell 
when it may occur. To use buckshot in a chokebore, 
when you are willing to risk consequences, place a wad 
in the muzzle and press it down to the point where the 
choke is closest. Then by chambering the shot on the 
wad there determine the proper number to use in a layer 
in the shell. 

47. Wire Cartridges. — They may be used in a cyl- 
inder bore for long range shots, but do not give good 
results when used in a chokebore. 

48. Tight Wads.— A tight wad over the shot makes 
the shot scatter. 

49. To Make a Oun Scatter.— To make a shotgun 
scatter, divide the shot charge into three or four portions 
?ind place a card wad between each portion. 



THE SHOTGUN. 

50. Chokebore.— The term "chokebores" 
simply ''barrels whereof the diameter of the bore 



27 

means 
at the 




28 GUNS AND SHOOTING. 

muzzle is less than the bore at some point behind the 
muzzle, other than the chamber," while any barrel 
constricted at the muzzle to the extent of j-.^^jj of an 
inch, miy be termed a modified choke. A full choke is 
constricted to the extent of j^^u to juTiu of an inch; but 
the larger the bore, the greater must be the muzzle. The 
constriction of the bore must be from ^ to 1 inch from 
the extremity of the barrel; this constriction if placed 3 
inches or more from the muzzle, fails to throw the shot 
close together, but will give better penetration than a 
cylinder bore. 

5 1. Large Gauge. — A gun of large gauge will carry 
more shot than a smaller gauge, and with practically an 
equal force; hence, at short range, chances of killing are 
greater with a large gauge. 

52. Crook of Stock.— Generally a tall person or one 
with long arais needs a gun with a long and crooked stock, 
and vice versa. A too straight stock makes a gun shoot 
high; a too crooked stock makes it shoot low. 

53. Length of Barrels. — The shorter the barrel the 
greater the range of ivergence of the charge. Long b:r- 
rels shoot closer than short, and will kill game at greater 
distance. For quick shooting, and cover shooting, 26 to 28 
inches is about right ia a 12- bore; 2 inches more in a 10- 
bore. Short barrels should be charged with a finer grain 
of powder than longer ones. 

54. Balance of Gun. — The center of gravity should 
be from 26 to 27 inches from the heel of the butt, just 
forward of the guard. * 

55. Cooling- Heated Guns,— Open or "break" the 
gun and allow the air to pass through the barrels. 

56. **Pull" of Triggers. — Triggers should have 
from 4 to 4| pounds pull. 



THE SHOTGUN. 29 

57. Loose Shot in Cartridges.— If you have shot 
the right barrel two or three times and do not want to 
shoot the left, take the left cartridge out and put it into 
the right barrel, and put the fresh cartridge in the other 
barrel. 

58. Holding Wads in Place.— Use a good, firm, 
stiff pasteboard wad, under which place a circular disc c>f 
cotton cloth large enough to come up over the edge of the 
wad and project above the same, say from a sixteenth to an 
eighth of an inch. To loQ,d, first lay the disc of cotton 
centrally ovv r the mouth of the shell or loading tube, a 
good, stiff pasteboard wad exactly on top in the center 
and drive it home. Or, fasten your cardboard wad cen- 
trally to the larger cotton or thin cloth disc with a touch 
of ;;ood flour paste. Having thus prepared a lot of tliem, 
should you prefer a lubricant, take an even roll of them, 
dip the projecting cloth edges in a little melted tallow, 
you then have a lubricant exactly where you want it, in 
advance of the charge of shot. 

59. Vise for Guns. — If you put your gun in a vise 
use a wooden one. If you can't use a wooden vise, join 
two pieces of flat pine or bass-wood by a leather strap ut 
one end, and set in the iron vise w^ith the strap down, in 
shape of a letter U- 

60. To Color Stocks.— Put 4 ounces of alkanet root 
into a half -pint of raw linseed oil. When the oil becomes 
a bright red wet a sponge or rag in it and go over the 
stock four or five times. Be sure that the wood absorbs 
the oil each time. 

6 1 . To Color Stocks Brown,— Dissolve a few 
crystals of permanganate of potash in water, and rub well 
into the "^ood . 

62, Varnish for Stocks. — Coach varnish, made 
quite thin with turpentine, and put on lightly, makes a 
good finish for gun stocks. 



50 



GUNS AND SHOOTING. 



63. Measuring- Gun Stocks.— Lay a straight-edge 
aloDg the rib, as shown in the cut, extending to the butt of 




the stock; measure at points 1 to 2, 3 to 4 for the crook, 
and from the front trigger to the butt for the length. 

G4. Gauge N'umbers. — A round bail, ten of which 
will weigh a pound, will exactly fit the barrel of a 10- 
gauge gun. The size of ball "eight-to-the-pound" fits an 
8-gauge gun, etc.; hence the derivation of the numbers 
expressing the gauge of shotguns. 

65. Powder Measure.— The term "dram," by 
by which charges of powder are measured, is an arbitrary 
quantity, and bears no relation to avoirdupois, troy or 
apothecaries' weight, although it is probable that the 
dram of powder originally weighed the same as the dram 
avoirdupois. 

66. Browning' Gun Barrels. — 1 ounce muriate 
tincture of steel; 1 ounce spirits of wine; i ounce muriate 
of mercury; i ounce strong nitric acid; ^ ounce blue stone; 
1 quart water. Mix well, and allow to stand thirty days 
to amalgamate. After the oil or grease has been removed 
from the barrels by lime, the mixture is laid on lightly 
with a sponge every ten hours. It should be scratched 
off with a steel wire brush night and morning until the 
barrels are dark enough; and then the acid is destroyed 
by pouring on the barrels boiling water, and continuing 
to rub them until nearly cool. If the barrels are of 
laminated steel do not dilute the acid so much. — Greener, 



Walker & 

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32 GUNS AND SHOOTING. 

68. "Don't."— Don't point your gun at yourself. 
Don't point your gun at any one else. Don't carry your 
gun so its range includes all your hunting companions. 
Don't try to find out whether your gun is loaded by shut- 
ting one eye and looking do^^n the barrel with the other. 
Don't use your gun for a walking stick. Don't throw 
your gun into a boat so the triggers will catch and deposit 
the charge of shot in your stomach. Don't use your gun 
for a sledge-hammer. Don't carry your gun with the 
hammer down. Don't be a fool. Don't you forget it un- 
less you have serious intentions of leaving this mundane 
sphere. 



SECTION II.— THE RIFLE. 

69. Hunting Rifle Qualifications —(1) safety; 
(2) strength, durability and ease of manipulation; (3) kill- 
ing power and penetration; (4) flat trajectory; (5) porta- 
bility; (6) freedom from recoil; (7) finish and ornamenta- 
tion. 

70. Loading-. — If in loading the bullet is not inserted 
in the shell, but is pushed into the grooves in the barrel 
so as to be about -fu inch in front of the shell, the ball will 
take the grooves perfectly, and the blotting paper patch 
will not be cut by the shoulder of the chamber, giving 
practically the same result as a muzzleloader. 

71. Rifle Shooting. — Hold the butt firmly against 
the shoulder (close to the body), not on the muscle of the 
arm. Extend the left hand along the barrel, and hold it 
firmly with the fingers. The elbow should form a very 
obtuse angle. Press the trigger with a steady pull, but 
do not jerk or twitch it. 

72 Practice in Aiming.— The great desideratum 
in off-hand shooting is practice. If practice may not be 



THE RIFLE. 33 

had upon the range, good results may be attained by aim- 
ing a rifle in a room at a small object or a spot upon the 
wall, and snapping the hammer. 

73. Aiming the Hunting" Rifle.— The sight (using 
open sights, permanently set to 100 yards' range) should 
be coarse very near the piece (within 8 yards), changing 
to fine at 8 yards, which is the near point blank; then to 
very fine at 55 yards, which is the point of greatest 
error, from this to fine at 100 yards, the true point blank, 
and beyond the range, coarser and coarser, the further the 
object is off. Different rifles produce different errors, but 
I find these differences to be very small at this short 
range. They will all fall between 1^ and 2^ inches, which 
is the greatest error at 55 yards. This includes the mili- 
tary, long range, mid range, express and all good hunting 
rifles, which I suppose to be well loaded. There are two 
methods of aiming the rifle among sportsmen : One by 
changing the sight taken from fine to coarse and vice 
versa, and the other by not changing the sights, but by 
aiming higher or lower on the object. Which of these 
modes is the best I will not pretend to decide; each has 
its advocates. For myself, I never vary the sight, but 
aim higher or lower as the case may require. — Major H. 
W. Merrill. 

74. Keep Barrel Clean,^- Accurate shooting de- 
pends upon perfectly clean barrels. Wipe out the barrel 
after each shot, if possible. 

75. Target Shooting Makes Slow Hunlers.— 

The great drawback to off-hand shooting on rifle ranges 
is that it makes a pottering, slow shot on game. The 
shooter takes his time at the range, knowing the target 
cannot get away, and hence doesn't learn to get a quick 
aim. 

76. Powder for Rifle. — Powder for rifle shooting 
should be the cleanest obtainable. Dirty powder causes 
foulness and leading, hence bad shooting. 



34 



THE RIFLE. 



77. Rifle Bullets.— The increase of length of bul- 
lets is attended with a decrease of initial velocity, but up 
to a certain point with an increase of mean velocity, 
while the steadiness of flight and penetration are always 
improved. The longer the range the heavier will be the 
bullet that will give the flattest trajectory, and this is 
more marked at extreme ranges than at moderate ones. 
A bullet that will give the flattest carve at one range will 
give a higher curve than a heavier bullet at a longer 
range. Having fixed the range at which we wish to 
obtain the flattest trajectory, it is siaiply a matter of cal- 
culation as to what weight of bullet will give the best 
results with a fixed caliber. To illustrate : Suppose that 
we have fixed on a .50-caliber rifle with a powder charge 
of 5 drams or 138 grains. On this assumption one may 
calculate the weights and other data of the bullets giving 
the flattest trajectory at the respective ranges. The 
results are shown in the following table, in which the 
weights of the bullets are given to the nearest 10 grains. 
It may be well to add that if we increase the powder 
charge, the weight of the bullet corresponding to the flat- 
test curve will also be increased, but not in the same 
ratio. 

TABLE. 



iix- 


Weight of 
bullet, 
Grains. 


Tinae of 
flight, Sec. 


Initial 
velocity, 

f. s. 


Remainin 

At end of 
range. 


g velocity. 
At 400yds. 


100 
200 
300 
400 


320 
350 

390 
430 


0.171 
0.388 
0.647 
0.947 


198f? 
1931 
1865 
1803 


1563 
1249 
1075 
981 


922 
941 

963 

981 



The last column is added to show what the remaining 
velocity would be in each case, if the flight were con- 
tinued up to 400 yards, and is only given for the sake of 
comparison. By common consent 200 yards seems to be 
the range fixed upon for which the flattest trajectory ig 



THE RIFLE. 35 

required. Therefore, if the flattest trajectory were the 
only object to be gained we won Id accept the 350-grain 
bullet as being the most effective. But there are other 
conditions to be fulfilled even more important than a flat 
curve. These are accuracy and energy. Both of these 
conditions are obtained by the same means, i. e., by in- 
creasing the weight of the projectile. Thus we are 
obliged to sacrifice trajectory to a certain extent depend- 
ent on the use to which the rifle is to be put, the extremes 
being the hunting rifle shooting the round ball, and the 
long-range rifle shooting an elongated projectile of from 
3 to 4 calibers in length. 

78. Bullet Metal.— The best proportion for bullets 
is twenty parts of lead to one part of tin; harder bullets 
would possibly do better shooting, but the wear and tear 
on the rifle grooving would be much increased. Patched 
bullets give better results than grooved; but the latter, 
well lubricated , serve all practical purposes. The best and 
most convenient lubricant is beef tallow — pure in winter, 
but for summer mixed with i beeswax. — Calumet, 

79. Heavy Bullets for Small Calibers.— "Devil's 
Ramrod" in Forest and Stream gives the following 
method of moulding bullets for sportsmen who use small 
caliber rifles for large game: 1st, Melt sufficient lead 
to make nine bullets, and mould them without any special 
care as to accuracy. 2d, Clean the ladle out, put 
the nine bullets therein, and place over a moderate fire. 
3d, While they are melting fill the mould with quick- 
silver, and as soon as the bullets are melted pour the 
quicksilver into tiie ladle and stir rapidly with a piece of 
clean iron. 4th, Remove from the fire and mould nine 
bullets from this alloy. Pour the remainder into a tin 
pan or upon a piece of wood. Repeat the process until 
you have the desired number of bullets, pouring out the 
residue as above directed, each time; for if it is allowed 
to remain in the ladle, the proportion of quicksilver will 



36 THE RIFLE. 

be gradually increased and ununiform shooting will 
result. When you are through, take this residue, place 
in the ladle, melt and use. The lead must not be allowed 
to get too hot. as quicksilver volatilizes rapidly when ex- 
posed to red heat. The result of these directions will be 
a bullet of slightly greater weight than one of pure lead, 
and not lighter, as when alloyed with tin, and besides 
possessing a fine degree of hardness, will retain its shape 
better when fired through hard substances, and naturally 
has better peaetration. The following simple algebraic 
formula will give the weight of a bullet made of the 
above mixture: Sp. grav. of lead = 11. Sp. grav. of 
quicksilver '^ 14. Let a = weight in grains of bullet 
made of pure lead, h = weight of the mould full of quick- 
silver, and c = weight of resultant bullet. 
Then: &-=^xl4, and c=^^>i|t^ -.09x10. 

80, Recoil in Rifles.— 1st, Recoil commences with 
the first motion of the ball, and continues until it leaves 
the barrel. 2d, The resistance of the atmosphere being 
in proportion to its velocity, or the velocity of the object 
coming in contact with it, it follows that whatever 
increases the speed of the ball through the barrel will 
increase the recoil. 3d, A.s more force is required to pro- 
duce a fast motion of a ball than a slower motion, it fol- 
lows that all circumstn,nces, such as quick powder, large 
charges, etc., that are capable of causing increased velo- 
city, are likewise capable of causing increased recoil. 
4th, The weight of the ball governs the tendency to recoil 
to a great extent. 5th, The weight of the gun in excess 
of that of the missile is the great regulation of recoil. 
6th, That the barrel is moved by recoil before the ball 
leaves it. 7th, The line of the barrel being above its par- 
allel extended from the breech, where it rests against the 
shoulder, would cause its point to rise with a recoil, and 
if from any cause a greater recoil is produced than pro- 
vision has been made for in adjusting the sight, it must 



THE RIFLE. 



37 



result in an elevation of the range of the ball. Hence we 
have "over-shooting" with heavy loading. — J. F. P. 

81. Windage Allowances in Rifle Shooting-.— 

This table shows approximately the divergence at from 
100 to 1,000 yards for winds blowing across the plane of 
lire: 



Gentle wind (4 miles per hour) — 
Moderate wind (lOmiles per hour) 

Fresh wind (30 miles per hour) 

Strong wind (35 miles per hour). . . 
Very liigh wind (50 miles per hour) 
A gale (80 miles per hour) 



200 yards 



300 yards. 1,000 yards. 



Sin. lOin. 

5in. 1ft. 6in. 

7in. I 2tt. 6in. 

9in. ' Sn. 6m. 
1ft. lin. 5ft. 
1ft. 4in. 7tt. 6in. 



3ft. 6in. 

7ft. 
lift. 
16ft. 
21ft. 
30ft. 



82. Line of Siglit. — "Line of sight" is the straight 
line from the eye, passing through the bottom of the 
crotch sight, taking in the tip of the bead sight, and 
thence straight on, piercing the target in its very center. 
— Major Merrill. 

83. Trajectory. — "Trajectory" is the curve described 
by a rifle ball from the barrel muzzle, which is beneath 
the line of sight, up through the line of sight, and for 
some distance above it, then down through the line of 
sight again, to the center of the target. 

84. Point Blank — "Point blank" is the second 
point where the trajectory of the ball in its flight inter- 
sects or cuts the line of sight. The first point of inter- 
section is sometimes called the "first point blank," or 
"near point blank." 

85. Point Blank Range.— "Point blank range" is 
the straight line or shortest distance from the piece to the 
second point blank (or in practice to the target whose 
center is struck at this point). The French and Americans 
use the same point blank, but in the British service it is 
different; their point blank distance is "the distance at 



38 THE RIFLE. 

which the projectile (ball) strikes the level ground on 
which the carriage stands, the axis of the piece being 
horizontal." (Col. Scott's Mil. Die.)— Major Merrill. 

86. Point Blank. — The position of a firearm when 
the axis of the bore and the object aimed at are in the 
same j)lane, which may be either parallel or inclined to 
the horizon. — Glossary of Military Terms. 

87. Point Blanli. — The point at which the line of 
sight intersects the trajectory. Strictly speaking, the line 
of sight intersects the trajectory at two points, but in 
practice the second intersection only is considered. This* 
distance is called the point blank distance. The natural 
point blank corresponds to the natural line of sight. All 
other points blank are called artificial points blank. — 
BentorCs Ordinance. 

88. Point Blank. — By point blank I mean the dis- 
tance to which your rifle will shoot over the 50 yard sight, 
so nearly level that the drop of the ball need not be taken 
into account. — T. S. Van Dyke. 

89. Shot in Rifles. — Don't shoot shot in rifles, as 
they will catch the rifling and go off in all directions. 

90. Powder Ij»nitioii. — From experiments made 
in 1884 by Mr. James Duane, loading .45-caliber govern- 
ment shells (U. M. C.) capped with Berdan No. 1 primers, 
with different quantities of sand behind the powder 
charge, he determined that the flash of a Berdan No. 1 
primer penetrates the powder in an ordinary rifle shell 
less than | of an inch. 

91. Bluing- Barrels. — Tincture of muriate of iron, 
1 ounce; nitric ether, 1 ounce; sulphate of copper, 4 scru- 
ples; rain water, 1 pint. First, securely plug up both 
ends of barrels, leaving one plug in each end of sufficient 
length to be used as handles, then thoroughly clean with 
soap and water, after which cover with a thick coat of 



THE RIFLE. 39 

lime, slacked in water, and when that has become dry- 
remove it with an iron wire scratch brush ; this is to re- 
move all dirt and grease from the barrels. Then apply a 
coat of the fluid with a rag, and let it stacd for twenty- 
four hours, when a slight rust will have appeared; then 
take barrrels and immerse them in a trough containing 
boiling hot water, after which scratch them w^ell with the 
scratch brush. Repeat this until the color suits, which 
will be after three or four applications. When completed, 
let the barrels remain in lime water a short tiaie to neutral- 
ize any acid which may have penetrated. Take great 
care not to handle the barrels during the operation, for 
the least particle of grease will make bad spots. 

92. Pistols. — It is best to use in pistol practice the 
same weapon which would be likely to be used in case of 
necessity; practice with .22-caliber gallery piitols affords 
only amusement and is of no practical value. In select- 
ing a pistol, choose a heavy one, for the weight is neces- 
sary to counteract the recoil or "kick-up." The charges 
used in the .32 and many of the .38-calibers are out of all 
proportion to the weight of the weapons, and it is there- 
fore impossible to do accurate shooting. The .41-caliber 
is a convenient and effective size, but the ball in it even 
is too heavy and causes excessive recoil. The writer has 
tried No. 2 buckshot in this caliber in place of the regular 
conical bullet, and, although the recoil was reduced to 
the minimum, it was at the expense of penetration. — 
Calumet. 

93. Rauge of Revolver.— A good revolver will 
carry 40 yards straight and kill. The heavy army and 
navy pistols will kill at 100 yards or even further. 

94. Pistol Practice.— In pistol shooting the range 
was formerly 12 paces, or 12 yards, the regular dueling 
distance. This has now been increased up to 20 paces; 
and with Colt's revolvers matches have been shot at 50 



40 



THE PISTOL. 



yards. The position adopted in New York galleries is 
that shown in the cut, and the targets are the regular 200 




yards target reduced propoiti")nitely. Those generally 
used are 8fin. x5|in, ; inner, 5|in. ; center, 3iin. ; bullseye, 
1 iVin. They can be purchased at any New York pistol 
gallery at 25 cents a hundred. 



Chapter II. 
Game, Hunting and Trapping. 



95. Game in General.— The best time of day for 
hunting all kinds of game is early morning or late after- 
noon. Extremes of temperature are unfavorable: a still, 
cloudy day being the best. A wet day is often good. A 
well- watered country, part hilly, part marsh, part level, 
part meadow, part wooded, is the ideal territory for game 
birds of all ordinary species. 

96. Ail-Round Gun.— A double gun of 13-gauge, 
li to 8 pounds in weight, modified choke, is about right 
for an all-round gun. If much duck hunting is to be done 
a 10-gauge, 8i-pound gun is better; but in the field or 
cover an 8-pound gun will weigh 12 pounds by nightfall. 

97. All-Round Rifle.— Probably no caliber is bet- 
ter adapted to all kinds of American large game shooting 
than the .45; but the .40-caliber is large enough for the 
shooting of most men, and the .40-caliber does not require 
to be so heavy that it is burdensome. The bone-crushing 
power of the .50-caliber is immense, and if one wants to 
be "loaded for bar" it is just the rifle to have: but the ex- 
perienced hunter will not lug about a rifle of 10 or 12 
pounds to shoot deer, antelope, wildcats and turkeys.— 
Calumet. 



42 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

98. Hunting" Clothes. — The hunting suit should be 
of a dull, neutral tint, drab, gray, or "dead-grass" color, 
and should be of good, stbut material to withstand briery- 
thickets and rock climbing. 

99. Manners in the Field. — 1st, Always be polite 
and unselfish. 2d, Drink little or no liquor. 3d, Never 
let your gun point toward yourself or anybody else, 
whether it is loaded or not. 4th, No matter how easy 
to get over a fence, through a hedge, or into a boat, 
see first that your gun is at half-cock. 5th, If you take 
down bars put them up again. 6th, Walk abreast of 
your associate, never ahead or behind. 7th, If separated 
from your comj)anion, don't shoot unless he is in sight. 
8th, Give your fellows a chance to shoot as well as your- 
self when your dog stands. 9th, If a rising bird fliei 
more in your companion's direction than in your own, 
wait till he shoots before you blaze away. 10th, Never 
shoot toward your companion, no matter how far away 
he may be. 11th, Don't give orders to your friend's dog. 
12th, When both of you shoot, and the bird falls, don't 
swear that you killed it. 13th, Don't lie about your 
exploits. 

100. Hunting" in Company. — When in company 
be sure of the position of your companion. Better lose a 
bird than shoot a friend. 

1 1 . Carrying Gun. — When carrying a gun, barrels 
should rest on the shoulder, muzzle well up; or else under 
arm, the muzzle pointing to the grc.und, two feet ahead of 
you. 

102. Fence Climbing.— Never climb a fence with 
a loaded gun in your hands. Either remove the shells or 
carefully set the gun over the fence first, then climb it a 
few yards away, so that if you fall you won't knock the 
gun down, and perhaps explode the charge. 

103. Dog, — Always keep your dog in sight wiien 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 43 

hiinting birds. If ''treeing" partridges (ruffed grouse), 
however, with a spaniel, this is not necessary, as the 
spaniel will bark when he has treed the game. 

104. Wind.— The wind should blow from the game 
toward the hunter. 

105. Trespass.— Look out for trespass signs before 
shooting or fishing in a strange place. Never leave a gap 
in a fence or wall you may have to get over. 

106. Powder.— Use the best powder you can get, if 
it does cost a little more. The difference in the shooting 
will more than repay you. Besides, poor powder injures 
gun barrels, causing them to ru;t in spots. 

107. Smokeless Powder.— Setting aside the ques- 
tion of penetration and efficacy, it is better to use smoke- 
Jess powder (wood powder) in the first barrel, where it is 
expected a second shot will be often required. 

108. Home-Cut Wads.— If you cut your own 
wads, cut the powder wads from soft, spongy, clear 
leather, and lubricate them well with tallow and plum- 
bago. Shot wads may be cut from pasteboard. 

109. Loads for Grouse Sliooting.— In the early 
part of the season No. 6 shot is good for grouse; later, 
say in November, you will want No. 4, for grouse will 
carry away a big load of fine shot, and seemingly mind 
nothing about it. — Iro7i Ramrod. 

1 lO. Charges for Small-Gauge Guns.— For 14, 16 

and 20-gauge guns, and for medium and small game, load 
with 2| to 3^ drams No. 1 (fine) powder, and 1 ounce shot 
for 14-gauge; 2i to 3 drams No. 1 powder and 1 ounce 
shot for 16-gauge; and 2i to 2f drams No. 1 powder and 
i ounce to 1 ounce shot for 20-gauge. — D. W. Cross. 

111. Charges for lO-Gauge Guns.— 1st, For 

large game, such as deer, turkey, geese, etc., use 3| to 4J 



44 GA3IE, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

drams of No. 1 (fine) and No. 3 (coarse) powder, mixed 
half-and-half, with two pink-edged wads or one felt wad 
over the powder, and li to li ounces shot, from No. 1 to 
BBs inclusive, with one Baldwin wad over the shot, 
the wads in metallic shells to be two sizes larger than the 
gauge of the gun; in paper shells one size larger if metal- 
lic moulds are used in loading, to prevent the bulging and 
enlargement of the paper shell. 2d, For medium-sized 
game, such as canvasbacks, mallard, redhead, dusky 
ducks, widgeon, gadwall, pintail and birds of that class, 
when in full plumage: 4 to 4^ drams of fine and coarse 
mixed powder, as in No. 1, and same kind of wads; with 
li to li ounces shot, from No. 5 to No. 2 inclusive, using 
your judgment in choosing about the proper size of shot 
for the kind of shooting, whether canvasback, etc., on 
points, or mallard, etc., over decoys. 3d, For small game 
and birds that usually lie close, such as snipe, woodcock, 
plover, gallinule (rail), pinnated and ruffed grouse, teal, 
summer ducks, etc. : 4i to 4+ drams mixed powder, as in 
No. 1, wads the same, with li to li ounces of shot, from 
No. 9 to No. 6 inclusive, judging always which is the 
proper sized shot for the work in hand, say 9s and 8s for 
snipe, woodcock, etc., and 7s and 6s for grouse, etc. — 
D. W. Cross. 

112. Charges for 12-Gauge Guns.— 1st, For 

shooting large game: 2f to 3 drams of mixed powder, 
Nos. 1 and 2 (Oriental, for instance), one pink-edged or 
felt wad over the powder, and one Baldwin over the shot 
(in all small gauges two wads over the powder increases 
the recoil, and adds but a trifle, if any, to the penetration 
and pattern), with 1 ounce of shot, from No. 1 to Bs 
inclusive. 2d, For medium-sized game: 3 to 3^ drams 
powder (mixed 1 and 2), with 1 ounce of shot from No. 5 
to No. 2 inclusive. 3d, For small game and close-lying 
birds: 3i to 4 drams mixed powder (Nos. 1 and 2) and 1 
ounce shot from No, 9 to No, 6 inclusive.— D. W. Cross, 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 45 

113. Table of Charges and Patterns.— The 

charges in appended table are for a gun bored for general 

shooting, and will give good results at the various kinds 
of game mentioned. The patterns are those which should 

be made by the same gun, in a 30-inch circle, at 40 yards, 
with Chicago chilled shot: 

FOR 16-GAUGE GUN. Patterns. 

Woodcock S^drs. % oz. No. 10 485 

Snipe, quail and plover 23^ drs. 1 oz. No. 9 390 

Prairie chicken (Aug. and Sept.) — 2^^ drs. 1 oz. No. 7 210 

Prairie chicken (Oct., Nov. and Dec.) 2% drs. 1 oz. No. 6 155 

Ruffed grouse 2^^ drs. 1 oz. No. 8 285 

Squirrels and rabbits 2^^ drs. 1 oz. No. 6 158 

Teals, pintails, etc 2% drs. 1 oz. No. 7 210 

Mallards, can vasbacks, etc 3 drs. % oz. No. 4 85 

Geese and brant 3 drs. % cz. No. 1 40 

Turkeys 23^ drs. % oz. No. 2 53 

FOR 1,'-GAUGE GUN. 

Woodcock. SM drs, 1 oz. No. 10 510 

Snipe 334 drs. V/s oz. No. 9 405 

Quail and plover 3}^ drs. IJ^ oz. No. 9 395 

Prairie chicken (Aug. and Sept.) ... 33^ drs. 13^ oz. No. 7 220 

Prairie chicken (Oct., Nov. and Dec.) 4 drs. 13^ oz No. 6 158 

Ruffed grouse. 33^ drs. 13^ oz. No. 8 300 

Squirrels and rabbits 33^ drs. 13^ oz. No. 6 160 

Teals, pintails, etc 3% drs. 13^ oz. No. 7 218 

Mallards, can vasbacks, etc 4 drs. 13^ oz. No. 5 115 

Geese and brant 4 drs. 1 oz. No. 1 45 

Turkeys 4 drs. 13^ oz. No. 4 95 

Deer (cylinder bore only) 4 drs. 3 layers of buckshot. 

TRAP-SHOOTING. 

Live pigeons (wild) 4 drs. 13^ oz. No. 7 205 

Live pigeons (tame) 4 drs. 13^ oz. No. 8 295 

Clay pigeons 33^ drs. 13^ oz. No. 8 300 

FOR 10- GAUGE GUN. 

Woodcock. 4 drs. \% oz. No. 10 525 

Snipe, quail and plover 4 drs. 134 oz. No. 9 415 

Prairie chicken (Aug. and Sept.). . . 4 drs. 134 oz. No. 7 225 

Prairiechicken(Oct.,Nov. andDec.) 43^ drs. 134 oz. No. 6 168 

Ruffed grouse 4 drs. 1J4 oz. No. 8 305 

Squirrels and rabbits 4 drs. 134 oz. No. 6 173 

Teals, pintails, etc 434 drs. 1J4 oz. No. 7 223 

Mallards, canvasbacks, etc... .... . 43^ drs. 13^4 oz. No. 5 120 

Geese and brant .......... 5 drs. 13^ oz. No. 1 48 

Turkeys.... ^ drs. 134 oz. No. 4 IGO 

Deer (cylinder bore only) 5 drs, 3 layers buckshot. 



46 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 



TRAP-SHOOTING. Patterns. 

Live pigeons (wild) 4% drs. 1J4 oz. No. 7 330 

Live pigeons (tame) 4*^ drs. I14 oz. No. 8 303 

Clay pigeons 4J4 drs. 1J4 oz. No. 8 305 

114. Table of Chamberlin Charges. — The 

Chamberlin shotgun cartridges for game shooting are 
loaded according to the following table; first quality 
with A. A. Co.'s Ducking powder and pink-edge wads; 
second quality, black-edge wads: 



Game. 



Sora, Rail, etc ■< 

Woodcock 

Snipe 

Quail 

Prairie Chicken 

Ruffed Grouse 

Squirrel 

Teal. 

Pintail..!...!!!..!!..! 

it 

Mallard 

a 

Redhead 

Canvashack 

(( 

Turkey 

(( 

Goose 



Gauge. 


Powder. 
Drams. 


Shot. 
Oz. 


12 






16 
20 
10 


2}i 


% 


4' 


l>i 


12 


sx 


1 


10 


4 


T^Vs 


12 


33^ 


^% 


10 


4 


lys 


12 


33^ 


1 


10 


43€ 


1^ 


12 


33^ 


IK 


10 


43^ 


13€ 


12 


3>^ 


lys 


10 


43^ 


^% 


12 


S}{ 


IVs 


10 


43€ 


IK 


12 


3K 


IK 


10 


4>i 


IH 


12 


3K 


IK 


10 


4>^ 


ly 


12 


3M 


IK 


10 


4X 


13^ 


12 


m 


IK 


10 


4>i 


IX 


12 


m 


IK 


10 


5 


IX 


12 


s% 


IK 


10 


5 


IK 


12 


m 


IK 



Size and 
Kind of Shot. 



10 Trap 

10 Shot 
10 Shot 
9 Shot 
9 Shot 
8 Trap 
8 Trap 
8 Shot 
8 Shot 
7 Trap 
7 Trap 
6 Shot 

6 Shot 

7 Shot 
7 Shot 
6 Shot 

Shot 
Shot 
Shot 
Shot 
Shot 
Shot 
Shot 

2 Shot 

2 Shot 

BB 

BB 



115. Charges for G-Gauge Guns.— 1st, For large 
game: 4f to 5 drams No. 3 (coarse) powder and 1^ to If 
ounces shot from No. 1 to treble SG, using two pink- 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 47 

edged wads or one felt wad over powder and one wad 
over shot, two sizes larger than gauge of gun. 2d, For 
medium game: 5 to 6 drams of No. 3 (coarse) powder and 
li to 2 ounces shot, from No. 8 to No. 2 inclusive, wad 
the same as in No. 1. — D. W. Cross. 

116. Chilled Shot.— Chilled shot will often go clean 
through game, where soft shot would only go half through. 
But a wound from chilled shot is likely to close up, while 
soft shot will make an open wound that is sure death. 
Chilled shot is thought by some people to wear out the 
choke in a gun very rapidly. 

117. Flight of Birds.— The process of normal 
flight may be considered to be due to two influences — the 
muscular effort of elevation, and the muscular relaxation 
of sliding down an inclined plane, which view may tend 
to simplify the explanation ventured on. When the bird 
flashes down the wing at A (Fig. 1), the body is thereby 




Fig. 1.— undulatory course of flight. 
raised to a higher level at B than the end of the previous 
slope in the air, and at the next step the wings are held 
out horizontally while descent is begun down a short in- 
clined plane, BC, where they have become relaxed, and 
are now pointed upward. On arriving here another flash 




-AIiTERNATE ACTION AND REACTION OF THE WINGS IN 
FLIGHT. 

of the wings is made downward, and the bird rises to D, 
at the summit of the next slope, when again the wings are 



48 GA3IE, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

extended horizontally, when relaxation begins, and termi- 
nates at the bottom of the incline at E, where they are 
let go, and elevated previous to the next muscular efiort. 
This method of action may be repeated rapidly, so that 
there might be continual flapping of the wings indicating 
short rises and short slopes in progression. Or, again, if 
the inclines are lengthened out' unduly over the rises, an 
appearance of a bird sailing through the air is produced, 
when there is a flap only rarely given by the wings. If 
the wings of a bird seem to be elevated we may suppose 
that it is at the bottom of the incline, or with wings de- 
pressed we may suppose it to be at the top of the rise. 
The horizontal flight of birds with wings observed to be 
flapping would probably, therefore, consist of a series of 
undulations, or rises and falls, like the tracings of a 
sphygmograph, represerting circulation or respiration. 
The up and down flappings of the wings would correspond 
with the down and up cftrves of the line of flight, and 
these again with descent and ascent of the body of the 
bird, to which it would really tally, and not with the 
motion of the wings (Fig. 2). — Avis, in Land and Water. 

118. Speed ofBircls' Flight.— The highest speed 
of flight per hour of birds in full plumage is estimated as 
follows: Crow, 25 to 40 miles; mallard, black duck and 
shoveler, 40 to 50; pintail, 50 to 60; wood duck, 55 to 60; 
widgeon and gadwall, 60 to 70; redhead, 80 to 90; blue- 
winged and red-winged teal, 80 to 100; bluebill, 80 to 110; 
canvasback, 80 to 120; sparrow, 40 to 92; hawk, 40 to 150; 
wild geese, 80 to 90. The distance traveled by birds in i 
second is as follows: At rate of 5 miles per hour, .92 feet; 
rate of 10 miles per hour, 1.83 feet; rate of 12 miles, 2.2 feet; 
20 miles, 3.66 feet; 30 miles, 5.5 feet; 40 miles, 7.33 feet; 60 
miles, 11 feet; 80 miles, 14.66 feet; 90 miles, 16.05 feet; 
100 miles, 18.33 feet; 120 miles, 22 feet; 150 miles, 27.5 feet. 

119. Shooting- on the Wing.— Shooting on the 
wing is a mechanical art, like billiard playing, boxing or 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 49 

fencing. There will, of course, be degrees of excellence; 
but any one with the full use of his faculties and the am- 
bition necessary to success in anything, can acquire it. 
The secret lies "in the hand becoming subservient to the 
eye." The two must be connected by electricity. The eye 
is never at fault; if it were there would be little hope of 
improvement; but any one may improve the quickness of 
the muscles. Like the expertness of conjurers in the art 
of manipulation, the same practice applied to the gun 
will make the brilliant shot. Every one can see quick 
enough. Let out a bird from a trap before 500 persons, 
and they will all see it at the same instant, but only the 
practiced shot can throw up a gun to his shoulder with 
accurate aim and a simultaneously pulled trigger before 
it has flown 10 feet. A sportsman should shoot game the 
same as an Indian shoots his arrow, by looking at the 
object with both eyes open. It may be done by closing 
one eye, but there is nothing gained by it. There are two 
ways of shooting on the wing. One, to throw up the gun 
to the shoulder and pull the trigger at the same moment, 
termed "snap shooting." The other, equally good, and 
better to begin with, and more certain upon the whole, 
particularly in open shooting, is to follow the bird, and, 
when covered, fire while the gun is in motion. But when 
you pull the trigger the other hand has a tendency to 
stop; that misses the bird. But education will teach it 
not to stop, the same as we teach both hands a different 
action while playing on the piano. 

120. Missing Wing Shots.— When you miss a fly- 
ing bird try to find the reason for the miss, and next time 
avoid the error. 

121. Confidence in Wing- Shooting.— You must 
have confidence in yourself. Make up your mind that 
you will get the first bird that starts; and when one does 
start, if you can see him, let him have it, if there is even 
a ghost of a chance of killing him. 



50 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

122. Holding- Ahead.— It is evident to all that if 
a bird is flying from the point A to the point B, a certain 

^ length of time must elapse before the bird 

reaches B. Also, that a certain length of 

time must elapse before a charge of shot 

from the point C can reach B; and in order 

that the bird and the shot shall reach B at 

the same instant, the gun must be held far 

^ enough ahead, so that the time required 

for the bird and the shot each to reach B at the same 

instant must be the same. 

123. Coolness in Wing" Shooting. — Coolness is an 
important quality of the mind in wing shooting. It is a 
matter of temperament, but can be sometimes acquired. 
A French writer says: ''After the bird rises take a pinch 
of snuff before you shoot." By counting three before you 
pull trigger you will thus give the bird time to get into 
its regular flight, your eye gets a clear view of distance 
and velocity, and your nerves, which were startled by 
the sudden whirr, become settled. 

124. Quickness in Wing Shooting.— To acquire 
quickness in wing shooting practice using the gun fifteen 
minutes daily in the house. Practice throwing it up to 
your shoulder, hammer down, both eyes open, and point- 
ing at any small object in the room. Then look with one 
eye along the barrel to verify your correctness of aim; 
then follow two imaginary birds, first to the left, then to 
the right, pull the trigger at some object in passing, and 
see that the motion of following is not checked. When 
you think that you are tolerably perfect in this action try 
snapping a cap, quickly, at a lighted candle at 10 feet 
distance, also at one suspended by a string, to which you 
can give a pendulous motion, and when you can blow the 
candle out five times out of six, there is little more to be 
learned. 



GA3IE, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 51 

125. Flock Shooting". — In shooting at a number of 
birds flying together, always select one bird for the aim, 
as near the head of the flight as possible, unless shooting 
in company, when each hunter aims at the position of 
the flock nearest his station. 

126. Birds Rising- to Flig-lit.— Birds rise to flight 
against the wind. Shoot when the bird is just on the turn 
or is steadying itself in the air after rising. 

127. Bird About to Alight.— A bird about to 
alight on the ground is falling, and at such time your aim 
should be under. 

128. Bird Coming" Head On.— Don't shoot at a 
bird flying toward you, but let it pass first. In the flrst 
case you shoot against the thick breast feathers; in the 
second case under the feathers. 

125). Kising- Shots. — In shooting grouse in cover, 
always bring the muzzle of your gun up on your bird 
from below if rising shots— and they almost all are. Don't 
try to shoot on the "drop," as it is termed, for then the 
gun is falling and the bird is rising, and you have twenty 
chances to miss where you have one to kill 

130. Straightaway Shots. — When a grouse starts, 
nine times out of ten he will start from the ground. 
If he is going straightaway from you, throw up your gun 
so as to shoot a little over where you see him, and by the 
time your gun gets up and discharged, he will have 
flown right into the shower of shot. 

131. Rig"ht or Left Shots.— If a bird starts toward 
the right or left, throw up your gun so as to shoot a little 
high and in advance of him, say from 1 to 3 feet; you 
must use your judgment about that, and be governed by 
the speed of the bird and the surroundings, etc. Follow 
the bird with your eyes, and your hands will uncon- 
sciously follow your eyes with the gun. A "right-handed' 



52 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

hunter has to make more allowance for speed when a 
bird is flying to the right, generally, and vice versa. 

132. Sliootiiij'" Oue Barrel. — In a double gun 
shoot each barrel alternately, or after shooting the right 
barrel put the left barrel shell into the right barrel for 
the next shot, and the fresh shell into the left barrel. 
Neglect of this rule causes loosened shot in the shell or 
barrel which is not used. 

133. Shooting Over a Pointing- Dog-.— After 
your dog has pointed, if you are disposed to be nervous, 
remain perfectly quiet for a full minute. This will serve 
to steady you, and will teach the dog habits of stanch- 
ness. In the meantime, cast your eyes around, to see in 
what direction the birds are likely to fly when flushed. 
If there is a cover of any sort, woods or swamps, within 
a radius of three hundred yards, you may be sure the 
birds will make for it; and, in the absence of woods and 
swamps within reach , if there be a depression or hollow, 
or fence overgrown with grasses or briers and weeds, the 
chances are that the birds will go there. After you have 
taken this observation, settle, as well as you can, from 
the direction in which the birds are likely to fly. This 
plan possesses two advantages; the birds, in passing, 
should they persist in going to the covers, will give the 
sportsman the fairest possible shot, with the chances of 
his striking a vital part considerably increased over a 
dead-away one; and in using the second barrel, the 
smoke from the first does not interfere. A covey has 
been kept by these tactics from dense cover, into which 
it would have been folly to have followed them. Walk 
your birds up slowly and deliberately; do not rush on 
them, as though you were frightening an obstreperous 
pig; and do not shoot the moment they get out of cover; 
you will miss entirely, or tear your bird up so that it will 
be useless. Wait till the bird has passed you if they per- 
sist to cover, or, in other words, in passing cross shots; 



GAiME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 53 

or, if they be going straightaway, until fully twenty 
paces off. 

1^54:. Marking- Down B"i*ds. — If the sportsman is 
not provided with a marker, he ought to try to mark his 
birds down as well as he can ; this is not so easily done 
when he uses both barrels at the rise; he can, however, 
locate the bird very nearly, or, if his dog be an adept at 
the business, he will assist very materially. Practice in 
marking can alone make perfect. The best plan is to 
keep the eye well ahead of the birds; when they are 
ready to alight they will perform the arc of a circle, 
fold their wings, and come to grass. 

135. Approaching Marked Down Birds.— 

When approaching the ground where the birds likely 
dropped, send the dog forward, steadying him by fre- 
quent commands, and making him work always directly 
in front, swinging backward and forward after the man- 
ner of a pendulum. If the sportsman finds the birds run 
after alighting, and the dog is disposed to road them up 
by ground scent, check him sharply, brmging him to 
heel; make a detour, so as to get beyond the birds, then 
work toward them from the direction in which they are 
running, otherwise the strong scent, arising from ground 
and coming down wind, confuses him, and he is apt to 
make a long point, if cautious, or to flush his birds out- 
right, if disposed to press his points. If, however, the 
birds have not moved, keep the dog well in hand, hunt- 
ing thoroughly every part of the ground, over and over 
again if necessary. Frequently they lie so close they will 
suffer themselves to be trodden on before taking wing. 
When at last the dog makes point, approach him cau- 
tiously; the probabilities are very strong that you will 
spring one or more birds in going to him, and, remember 
one thing — never budge an inch without being ready 
for instant work. After he has walked up the pointed 
bird, the sportsman's ears may any moment be assailed 



54 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

with the sharp whirr of hurrying wings. Do not leave 
the ground until you have sprung something like the 
number of birds you may think dropped there. 

130. Kifle Hints for Shotg^un Hunters.— The 

first thing to be done when a deer starts is to remember 
that you have a rifle in your hands and not a shotgun. 
The number that can be missed, even inside of 25 yards, 
with a rifle fired as a shotgun, by good shots on quail or 
woodcock, is perfectly amazing. A deer in market or in 
a picture looks quite large, but in reality they are a very 
small mark. There is around them an immense amount 
of vacancy, and the tendency of a bullet to find it is 
marvellous.— Fan Dyke. 

187. Sights for the Hunting- Rifle.— The sights 
should be moderately coarse, and the front one of ivory, 
except for hunting on snow, where brass or gold is the 
best. File off the " buckhorn " sides of the back sight, so 
that you can get a clear view of your game when holding 
ahead of it. The " buckhorns " are really of no use but 
to prevent reflection of light from the corners of the 
notch, and this you can do as well by rusting them with 
iodine or acid. I go so far as to cut down the sides until 
the notch stands in a little cupola in the middle, afford 
ing a perfect view all around it. I find such a one worth 
a cartload of buckhorn sights, though it takes a little 
practice to get used to it, when it is caught just as 
quickly by the eye as any other. — Van Dyke. 

138. Throwing Rifle Ahead of Game.— It is 

not necessary to throw your rifle ahead of the game when 
you first raise it. But it is always expedient to do so. If 
you raise it directly on the mark the temptation to pull is 
often too strong to resist. 

139. Practice for Running Rifle Shots.— 

Good practice with a rifle may be had with a small wheel 
rolled where you can see the balls strike; and if you can 



GA3IE, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 55 

make the wheel bounce by obstructions on a hillside it 
will be much better. — Van Dyke. 

IJrO. The Trigger for Running Rifle Shots.— 

For running shots a set trigger is an abomination; equally 
so is the 3-pound pull. It should be so that a moder- 
ate jerk will fire it without disturbing your sight, and 
without the necessity of beginning a moderate pressure 
as you would with a hard trigger at a target. About f to 
If pounds is about right, though for a heavy rifle 2 pounds 
would perhaps be easy enough. 

141. Coolness in Rifle Shooting.— Remember 
that coolness is absolutely indispensable and that haste 
will do you no good. Let quickness come with time, and 
practice slowly and carefully. Do not be beguiled into 
fast shooting at that Creedmoor target; make it your first 
point to hit, and don't shoot at first more than once on 
one run, unless you have a double-barreled rifle. Let 
others try to see how big a hail storm of bullets they can 
get up in a given time if they like it, and don't be at all 
bothered if by so doing they happen to make more points 
than you. You will in the end do by far the best w^ork 
on game if you take it easy and make accuracy the first 
point. — Van Dyke. 

142. Magazine Rifles on Game.— Fire every shot 
from a magazine rifle with as much care as if it were 
your last ball. Fast "pumping " never succeeds so well 
as ca,reful aiming, and it tends to carelessness. 

143. Shooting Beyond the Point Blank.— 

There will be generally little use in shooting beyond the 
point blank of your rifle; unless in cases where there is 
no probability of your deer stopping for a standing shot. 

144. Rifle on Game Down Hill.— The tendency 
in aiming down hill is to overshoot, except on a very long 
shot (600 to 1,000 feet) down a very steep hill, when the 
tendency is to undershoot. 



56 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 



145. Hillside Shooting- with Rifle.— Let A be 

the position of the hunter, B the position of the animal 
aimed at on mountain side. The solution is: In aiming 
be governed by the horizontal distance A C, or distance 




to a point perpendicularly over the animal. Reversing 
the positions, with the hunter at B and animal at ^, in 
aiming be still governed by the horizontal distance A C. 
In other words, take no account of the height (C B) you 
may be above the animal, or the air line distance A B, 
but be governed entirely by the horizontal distance, A C, 
which is much more easily estimated than the distance 
A B, generally thought to control the aim In afterward 
bringing these principles into practice I never failed to 
hit my game. The last time they were used upon two 
bull elk, at least 200 yards down a mountain side, which 
was estimated to be much further. From an overesti- 
mate of distance the two first shots missed. Taking new 
reckoning of distance, and making use of above princi- 
ples, the elk standing apparently dazed from the unex- 
pected reports, the next eight consecutive shots were put 
through the two elk before getting out of reach, — W. D. P. 

146. Estimating- Distance in Hunting with 
the Rifle. — Overestimating distance of game is a mis- 



GA3IE, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 57 

take that is aaiazingly common. It will almost always 
occur with beginners, except when game are across water, 
across smooth, clean snow, or from one high hill to an- 
other where the intervening valley has a broad bottom. 
In these three cases underestinDating distance is the rule. 

147. Overshooting- Game with liifle.— The ten- 
dency to overshoot game with a rifle is one of the remark- 
able and inexplicable things about hunting, and this 
tendency is especially strong on running game. For this 
reason file the back sight flat on top. If the sides are 
higher than the center notch, there will be a constant 
tendency to shoot too high from trying to see your game 
above them. With a little practice you can catch this 
sight quite as quick and shoot just as well as with the 
back sight, which for good work is only a useless nui- 
sance. I go still further, and cut down the sides about 
one-twentieth cf an inch, leaving about one-sixteenth of 
an inch on each side of the center notch (which is simply 
a fine split) standing above the rest of the sight. Over 
the sides of this I can get a clear view of the whole body, 
even to the feet of a deer in any way he may run. I find 
that I can catch this sight just as quick as any other, after 
a little practice, and am not half so apt to overshoot. — 
Van Dyke. 

148. Rifle Sliootiiig" at ^sTig-ht.— To shoot at night 
chalk the top of the barrel, from breech to muzzle. 

149. Rifle Sliootingin Cover. — In hunting in the 
woods you must watch three things: 1st your sight, 2d 
the deer, 3d the trees. Where trees are very thick it is 
often best to pick out an open place and throw your 
sights into that, firing just as the deer gets within the 
right distance from them. But be sure and not wait 
until he touches the line of your sights or you will miss 
him if he is going at any rate of speed or is at any 
distance. 



58 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

150. The Rifle on Deer.— Use a rifle having the 
flattest possible trajectory up to 150 yards, and never 
raise the sights (taking coarse front sights or holding 
high on game) unless very certain of its necessity, and 
when in any doubt always decide on the level sight. If 
not very familiar with the trajectory of long-range rifles, 
you will be apt to miss deer from 100 to 140 or 150 yards 
by holding a level sight on them and having the ball drop 
under. And after you do know their trajectory, you will 
be extremely liable to undershoot in trying to avoid the 
danger of overestimating distance, and to overshoot the 
next one, perhaps, in trying to avoid the previous error. 
Paradoxical as it may seem, the longer the range of a 
rifle the worse it is for hitting game from 90 up to 200 
yards Don't shoot at the middle of a deer. A deer hit 
anywhere from three inches back of the shoulder to the 
hip, unless the backbone or kidneys be touched, can run 
for miles unless shot with an extra large ball, and often 
even then unless the ball is expansive. In such cise let 
it alone until it lies down and sickens, and don't go after 
it even then, if you can possibly get around or above it 
for another shot. In, or just behind the shoulder, about 
one-third the way up, is the best place to shoot, if you 
can get a chance; but you will have to take shots just 
where you can get them, especially on the run. 

151. Shooting- Bounding Deer.— Generally a 
running deer is a bounding deer and often a bouncing 
deer. The black-tailed deer, especially, often runs as if 
bouncing on India rubber, rising, apparently without 
effort, from 1 to 2 feet at every jump. When running over 
ground that is rough, rocky, covered with logs or low 
brush, a deer is nearly always jumping with high and 
often irregular springs. Now (unless very close), just as 
surely as you shoot at where he is, just so surely will the 
ball strike where he is not. The best way is to catch him 
^s he strikes the ground, and for this purpose, where you 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 59 

have time, you must keep the rifle ahead of him for sev- 
eral bounds, until you catch the length and height of his 
jump. Then, when he is at the highest point, shoot at 
the spot where he will be when he strikes the ground, 
and, above all, be sure and pull when he is in the air. To 
get the right distance ahead, and at the same time the 
right elevation, and pull just at the right time, is a very 
nice operation, and a miss is never discreditable; but, 
with care and coolness, you will in this way make shots 
over which you will chuckle for a month. If a deer be 
running low you may disregard this up and down motion, 
and if running very fast you must disregard it; but when 
bounding high you cannot overlook it with safety, and in 
straightaway shots you must hold about for his knees 
when he is up. — Van Dyke. 

152. The Rifle on Deer and Hares.— A deer sel- 
dom runs at full race-horse sx)eed. His usual gait is a 
gi-aceful canter or springing jumps. Still he is going 
faster, and your bullet is much slower than you suppose. 
A hare (California jack rabbit) under full speed, at 50 
yards, wants about 5 feet margin, running at a light gait, 
about 2i or 2. Running quartering at 40 or 50 yards I have 
repeatedly struck just behind them, although holding a 
foot ahead. And even when running at a very sharp 
angle to the line of fire, I have invariably made the dust 
fly behind them when holding directly on, and this too, 
at not over twenty paces distance. Holding ahead must 
never be neglected unless your deer is very close or going 
very slow, and even then it will be safe to hold off the 
body, even though it may also be safe enough to hold on. 
At a deer driven toward me, and coming on a course so 
slightly quartering that he would have passed within 20 
yards of me (or, as our Creedmoor riflemen would aptly 
express it, coming like an 11 o'clock wind), I fired at 
about 75 yards. I held just so as to see a strip of daylight 
ahead of his breast, md struck in the middle. These 



60 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. . 

distances are taken from shooting done with a .44-rifle, 
70 grains of powder, and the long-range (530 grains) ball. 
With 77 grains of powder 1 could see no difference in 
practicing on hares, although with a round ball the dif- 
ference is perceptibly less at 100, and even up to 120 or 
130 yards, though not enough to be of much consequence 
for deer. In shooting from a running horse it will, of 
course, not be necessary to hold ahead where the speed is 
equal.— Fa?2 Dyke. 

153. Houncling' Deer. — Deer have certain runs, 
generally upon the dividing ridges and through the swags 
of ridges, Standers are placed on these runs and the 
driver takes his dogs, from two to a dozen or more, and 
generally drives against the wind, which is the way deer, 
especially old bucks, always run. The deer hunter that 
understands his business, in taking a stand to wait for 
the driver to drive out the deer, always takes his position 
against a tree, fronting the way he expects the deer to 
come. In standing for deer you should never get behind 
anything, for the deer is almost certain to see you move, 
and then he will change his direction. 

154. Still-Hunting- Deer.— The best time for still- 
hunting is in running time, in the months of October and 
November, after the does are with fawn and are running 
and hiding from the bucks. When you see a doe running- 
through the woods, go and take your position in shooting- 
distance of where she passed, and keep a sharp lookout 
the way she came, and often, in a very few minutes, you 
will see a buck coming, tracking her. Let him come up 
near enough for you to get a fair shot, bleat or whistle at 
him and he will stop. If you are a marksman, then you 
will have venison. Still- hunting in the months of Octo- 
ber and November is the most successful way of hunting. 
Sportsmen that are good rifle shots are the most success- 
ful still-hunting. Shotguns will do for driving, but rifles 
are the best to use in still-hunting. 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 61 

155. Slow-Tracking Deer. —Slow-tracking deer 
with a dog is a very successful way of hunting. The 
dog, from a small puppy, must be trained. A half -hound 
is generally preferred. A cross of a hound and cur or 
bulldog is best, as the hound gives the acute scent, and 
the bulldog or cur the speed and bravery to take hold 
when he comes in contact with a crippled deer. The dog 
is trained to follow the track by scent in a slow walk, 
and you follow the dog ten or twenty feet behind, and 
keep a sharp lookout for the deer. When the dog has a 
strong scent of the deer you can discern it by the precau- 
tion he uses, and when he sees them he stops and waits 
for you to shoot, and at the fire of the gun he does not 
break and run, but waits to see what you want done. If 
you have crippled the deer urge him on, and if it be badly 
crippled he will catch it and kill it, and you wait on the 
track where he started from when you urged him, and 
he will return and take you to the dead deer. This is 
the most successful way of hunting, and by it you can 
find out more about the habits of the deer than from any 
other mode of hunting. 

156. Dead Deer.— A deer's throat should be cut 
and entrails drawn at once after it is killed. 

157. Dead Deer in Water.— A deer in the red 
coat sinks, while that in the blue coat floats, without 
regard to the fatness or leanness of the animal. 

158. Deer and Moonlight. — Where deer are com- 
paratively undisturbed they feed nearly as much in the 
day as in the night, when the moon is up. If the moon 
has shone all night they will lie quiet all the next day. 
When the moon has been up all day they will lie quiet all 
night. During the last quarter of the moon, when the 
moon has been down nearly all day, they become very 
hungry and feed nearly all night, so that is the best time 
to fire- hunt. If you wish to still-hunt, go when the moon 



6S GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

rises or is yet up, whether forenoon or afternoon. If you 
hunt with dogs go at other times, as they will be sluggish 
and won't run far ahead of the hounds. The best time 
to fire-hunt is a dark, cloudy night when the moon is up. 

159. Hang-iug" up a Deer. — After inserting a gam- 
brel in the hindlegs of the animal in the usual manner, 
cut a couple of crotches about eight feet long, then bend 
down a springy sapling and insert the top under the gam- 
brel. Now place your crotches, butt outward, at right 
angles to the sapling, hook one of them into the sapling, 
just below the gambrel, and place its butt so it will not 
slide; now, with the top of the other crotch in your hand, 
lift up on the sapling, pressing it against the crotch at the 
same time. When as high as you can get it, insert the 
other crotch above the gambrel. If the sapling is not 
strong enough to hold the weight of the deer, carry the 
foot of this crotch toward the other and the thing is done. 
If the deer is very large, or your muscular energy small, 
you can start with crotches three or four feet long and 
then use longer ones. 

160. Piiinatecl Grouse. — Pinnated grouse (prairie 
chicken) will be found in the stubble fields in the morn- 
ing and evening, and near sloughs or in cornfields in the 
middle of the day. 

lOl. Ruffed Grouse Habits.— When alarmed, the 
ruffed grouse sometimes squats close to the ground, but 
generally takes wing and alights on some tree where it 
remains closely concealed under the branches near the 
trunk until the sportsman has passed. Their favorite 
resorts are sides of hills overgrown with hemlock and 
cedar, with undergrowth of laurel. In level countries 
they frequent swampy covers and scrub-oak patches, and 
lie better where there is a tangled and briery bottom. 
When flushed on a hillside they generally fly uphill and 
can be found directly over the summit. 



GA3IE, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 63 

162. Treeing Grouse.— When flushed on level 
ground a ruffed grouse (partridge), if flying low, will 
alight on the ground. If he gradually rises and suddenly 
darts upward, look for him on the nearest evergreen to 
where you saw him last. If he at once rises to the top of 
a tree and then shoots off like an arrow, he will fly away 
to a distance. If he flies up a steep hillside he will alight 
on the ground, but if from a hill to a level below, he will 
be in some tall hemlock or si)ruce, standing straight and 
immovable on a limb near the body of the tree. If he 
flies from one hill across a ravine to another hill he will 
alight on the ground. The shorter flight the bird takes 
before alighting the more ready he is again to take to 
flight. If he trees immediately after being flushed he will 
take the most prominent limb in view, and, unless your 
dog holds his attention, will be away when he perceives 
you; but should he fly some distance and be followed by 
your spaniel at full cry, he will alight on the limb of a 
hemlock or spruce near the body of the tree, hug his 
feathers close and stand as motionless as a knot. A side 
shot is surer than one in front or back. Get a tree be- 
tween you and him if possible, or walk toward him as if 
you didn't know he was anywhere about. Shoot the in- 
stant you stop walking or you lose your bird. 

163. Quail Hunting.— Don't start out too early in 
the morning; the birds are then seeking their feeding 
grounds — are running, and will never stand well to be 
pointed. Wait until the sun has dried off most of the 
dew, and you can hunt with decidedly more comfort to 
yourself, as well as to your dog. The birds will have fin- 
ished feeding in a j^reat measure in the meantime, and 
will be quietly resting in some grassy covert in their 
feeding grounds, or immediately contiguous thereto. 
Their flight will not be so long, and their movements 
more sluggish after taking flight, which however they 
will do very reluctantly. 



64 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

164. Snipe Shooting. —Snipe lie best to the dog on 
warm, sunny days, when gentle winds are blowing. 
Hunt them with the wind at your back, as they rise 
against the wind in a zigzag course. Sometimes in the 
spring they frequent swampy thickets or low willow 
bottoms. 

105. Loon Shooting-. — To shoot loons aim ahead of 
them at the water, as they always plunge forward. 

IGO. Wooclehucks. — To drive woodchucks and 
other animals out of their holes take a small water turtle, 
bore a hole in his shell just above his tail, fasten a piece 
of wire 6 inches Jong to the shell, and at the end of this 
tie a piece of cotton, well saturated with kerosene. 
Place the turtle head-on into the hole, light the cotton, 
and he will go through and drive out the game. 

167. I>iick Call.— A duck call or squawker is made 
thus: Take a tube of wood or metal (bamboo is best) about 
I inch in diameter inside, and 4 to 8 inches in length. Fit 
a plug 3 inches long to one end, split it in two, groove 
one half t3 within i inch of its smaller end, the groove 
being i inch wide and same depth. Hammer a thin piece 
of steel, copper or brass 2i inches long and | to i inch 
wide, to increase its elasticity. This is the tongue, 
and one end, which should be thinner than the other, 
should have the corners rounded. The tongue is then 
placed over the grooved half, the round end nearly to the 
extreme smaller end of the plug, and the tongue com- 
pletely covering the groove. The other half of the plug 
should be shoitened about H inches from its smaller 
end, and then being placed on the grooved half, thus 
holding the tongue fast, both should be pushed firmly into 
the tube. By blowing into the other end of the tube the 
call is produced; the tone, degree of firmness, etc., being 
regulated by moving the shortened end of the plug in or out 
as a finer and sharper, or lower and coarser note is re- 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 65 

quired. Practice and experience are necessary to make 
it effective. 

108. Snipe Whistle.— A whistle to call snipe is 
made thus: Carefully dry the leg of a curlew, push out 
the marrow with a red-hot knitting-needle, plug up one 
end, and then practice. 

169. Turkey Call.— Take a piece of dog wool or 
maple, say 6 inches long by 1^ inches diameter, and with 
a small-sized bit bore a hole through it lengthwise, then 
with a tapering or hollow bit ream it out to the size of li 
inches tapered to size of small bit. At the other end insert 
a piece made either of wood, horn or cane, according to 
fancy, for a mouthpiece. The tone of the caller depends 
largely on the size of the mouthpiece, and great care 
should be bestowed on this part of the caller. When the 
turkey note is perfected to suit the individual, the shape 
and finish can be arranged. A caller adapted to one 
hunter cannot be used by anotiier, unless he is an adept 
in the business. Some hunters yelp by jjlacing the caller 
in the center of their mouth, while others yelp from the 
side. There are some notes which cannot be made from 
the side of the mouth. In hunting, different notes will 
have to be made according to the game in which you 
are in pursuit of. For instance, if a flock of turkeys were 
flushed, and it were necessary to kill the old hen, you 
would yelp like a young turkey; if a young one was 
desired, you would imitate the hen. And in pursuit of 
the gobbler, you would not yelp like either of them, but 
you would bring to your aid patience, "turkey sense," 
and all the cunning possible to capture him. — Lowndes. 

170. Turkey Calls.— Make a Httle box of Spanish 
cedar 21 inches long, f to | deep and 1 inch wide. Cut a 
piece of smooth slate that will lie nicely in the bottom of 
the box; have the top smooth and even. Make the box 
without glue, put it together with brass pins. To operate 
this, hold the slate between the thumb and middle finger 



66 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

of the right hand while the call is held by the thumb and 

middle finger of the left The common bone call is 

made from the hollow wing bone of the bird. The ends are 
cat off, and the call note is made by violently sucking 

through the tube "With a narrow chisel hollow out a 

piece of dry cedar, 2 inches long, and 1^ inches wide and 
i inch thick, so that the sides are about as thick as a 
piece of tin; but do not let them be too delicate. It 
should be hollowed out within i inch of the bottom and 
ends. Taking this simple caller between your thumb and 
fingers, rub it crosswise against the butt of your gun or 
on the barrels. No rosin is required; the simple wood 
can be manipulated with a little practice to perfectly 
imitate the turkey call. 

171. I>uck Shooting". — Ducks fly low, near the 
water, on a windy day. For the first flight of the fall 
(young ducks) use 3^ drams powder, 1 ounce No. G or 7 
shot; but when the older birds arrive, 4 drams powder and 
li ounces Nos. 4 to 6 shot is a good load. 

172. Flij^ht of Duoks. — A wild duck flies, say, 90 
miles an hour, or one mile in 40 seconds, or 132 feet a 
second. Velocity of shot for short distance is, say, 1,350 
feet a second. If a duck be 50 yards away, it will require 
one-ninth of a second to reach it if still. But the flying 
duck, at the instant the central shot crosses his line of 
flight, is nearly 15 feet from the point where he was 
when the shot left the gun. Hence the aim in this case 
should be 15 feet ahead. 

173. Flight of Ducks. — Unassisted by the wind 
ducks fly from 80 to 100 miles an hour. When they fly 
against the wind, they travel low and close together. 
Never shoot at ducks coming " dead on," but wait until 
they have passed or are on a line with you. Their thick 
breast feathers will prevent shot entering their bodies 
when coming " dead on." 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING, 07 

174. Ducks' Power of Scent. — It is always best 
to approach ducks and all wildfowl on the water against 
the wind, as their sense of smell is singularly well devel- 
oped. 

1 75. Edible Species of Duck.— The mallard, teal, 
canvasback, redhead, widgeon, black duck, pintail, blue- 
bill or broadbill, redneck, whistler, butterball or buffle- 
head. Some of these ducks, like the butterball, are 
edible in some waters and unfit to eat in others; the 
difference is owing to the kind of food they obtain. 

176. Blinds for Duck Shooting-.— Blinds or bough 
houses should be built on the ducking grounds before the 
season commences, as ducks will avoid any new structure 
after they arrive. They may be made of logs, brush, 
grass, cornstalks, etc., and should completely conceal 
the hunter. 

177. Decoys. — In both duck and bay bird shooting 
the decoys are always to he set to the windward of the 
blind. Set out about fifty, if possible, as the greater 
the number the better the show to attract the flocks. 
The stools should be set in a crescent- shaped circle, wuth 
the heads of the decoys pointing to the wind. There are 
two reasons for arranging them in this way: First, all wild 
fowl alight to the wind, as they need the resistance to the 
air; second, flocks of birds that intend to stool drop 
down to leeward, where they circle and then draw in 
over the decoys. It is, therefore, not advisable, as a rule, 
to shoot at a flock passing over your head, as it will turn, 
and should it light it will do so at the head of the line of 
stools. It will thus be seen that as the birds check their 
flight to alight, they crowd and jostle together, affording 
the most killing results of a well directed volley into 
their ranks. 

178. Paint for Decoys. — Decoys painted with 
lampblack and oil will have a more natural look than 
those painted with bright polish paints. 



68 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

1 79. Live IDeeoy Ducks. — Mallard, black and most 
fresh-water ducks will stool to live decoys, which should 
be wounded ducks of a similar class caught alive. Fasten 
to one leg of each live decoy a close-fitting leather boot, 
just above the foot, and attach a weight to the boot by a 
stout cord as an anchor. Set out tho same as wooden 
stools, or use with wooden stools, taking care to anchor 
them far enough apart so that their anchor lines will not 
become entangled. Feed them on corn, and carry them 
in a crate or basket until they are accustomed to their 
work. 

180. Diving" Decoys. — Run a long cord from neck 
of decoy through a block on the anchor weight and thence 
to blind or bough- house. By pulling this cord at intervals 
when the decoy is anchored out it will make the diving 
motion noticed in ducks when feeding. 

181. ** Toliug" DuclvS. — Ducks are frequently led 
up to a blind in the marsh by the hunter waving a red 
blanket, scarf or other cloth in an erratic manner. Some- 
times a red spaniel will, by running back and forth on 
shore, attract the curiosity of a flock of ducks resting on 
the water and lure them to death. The fox is said to 
practice this art to obtain a dinner of wild poultry. 
"Toling," as this is called, won't work where ducks are 
much hunted and wild. Black ducks, gray ducks, red- 
heads, bluebills and sheldrakes are said to be the only 
ducks that will ' ' tole. " 

182. Sinkboat. — To sink a boat for duck shooting 
take old salt sacks, put in enough sand to sink boat to 
required depth ; when through shooting empty the bags 
of sand. 

183. Blinds for Bay Bird Shooting-.— A box 

sunk in the sand is the most killing device. The box 
should be long enough to allow the gunner to lie in it 
comfortably, and its width should be several inches in 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 69 

excess of the breadth of his shoulders. From 10 to 15 
inches will be of sufficient depth. It should be made of 
|-inch stuff, calked and pitched on the outside and in, 
thus making it thoroughly water-tight. At one end, near 
the top, an iron staple should be clinched, to which a 
^-inch rope of about 7 feet in length should be fastened. 
This will be found useful in towing the box behind a 
skiff, or for dragging it over the sand. Other blinds aio 
easily constructed out of cedar boughs, cut about four feet 
in length, stuck in the sand or mud. They can also be 
made, when the wind is not blowing too hard, out of long 
reeds cut on the marsh. Painted canvas screens, hinged 
so as to fold up, have been used, and one of Long Island's 
famous gunners once used an umbrella painted green. 
The fact is, it depends very much upon the place, and, 
moreover, on the conditions of wind and weather where 
to stool. While a vast number of birds in their autumnal 
flight follow the irregularities of the coast, there are 
countless numbers who make their migration far to sea, 
or take short cuts over the mainland. Those passing to 
sea only touch at the projecting points, and are conse- 
quently tame, while those who have run the gauntlet of 
an even shore or beach are wild, and less likely to stool. 
A.11 these things mu^t be taken into account, and the 
wilder the birds the better you must be hid. Sometimes 
it is impossible or inconvenient to construct a box such ss 
described, or find suitable stuff to build a blind; then a 
rubber blanket can be spread on the marsh, and a few 
sedge bushes or heaps of seaweed placed around you. 

184. Bay Bird Stools.— There are various kinds 
of stools manufactured, such as both solid and sectional 
wooden ones, hollowed out; flat tin stools, cut out of 
sheet-tin, and several years ago a patented tin stool was 
introduced on the market, that met with favor in the 
eyes of those sportsmen who cared little for expense. 
The latter are of very ingenious make, each half of the 



to GA3IJS, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

decoy being concave on the inside and convex on the out, 
thus representing one-half of a bird; the two parts are 
hinged together on the back, so that when shut they 
resemble a well-formed snipe, and when open can be 
packed one in another, after the manner of a nest of 
boxes, and occupy but little space. All these decoys are 
painted to resemble the different varieties of snipe, and 
are stuck up by means of sticks. Each set of stools 
should have sticks, or 'legs," of two lengths — short ones 
when used on dry bars or very shoal water, and long ones 
when the water is deep. It should be borne in mind 
that stools set in water are m.ore readily seen, as the r 
reflection and a watery background make them loom up 
and show to advantage. For wet stooling the wooden 
ones are preferable, as the tin ones soon rust and become 
worthless. The objection, however, to the wooden stools 
is their weight and bulk. For plover shooting on the up- 
land or dry ground, the tin ones are by far the best. It 
may here be said that shells, lumps of mud, etc., placed 
on sticks, often can be used when it is impossible to obtain 
the regular decoys. 

185. Stooling- Bay Birds. — Should you find that 
large birds, such as curlew, marlin and willet, have a 
roosting place on one of the bald marshes, the box blind 
should be used, or if thoroughfares dissect the marsh, 
you can paddle your skiff, which should be painted green, 
up one of the drains toward the spot where the birds 
lower their flight, or circle over before alighting, and 
conceal it in the highest tuft of grass. Curlew, and 
especially the "jack," do not stool well where a blind 
has been erected. They are wary at best and wild when 
their favorite haunts have an unnatural look. Willet 
almost invariably stool well, and both the marlins are 
unsuspecting. The large and small yellowlegs, dowitch- 
ers, robin snipe and lesser birds are readily called within 
reach; providing, of course, that the proper place has 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 71 

been selected. The bars and shoals are the favorite 
haunts of the blackbreast plover, the willet and dow- 
itchers, while the meadow pond-holes are the surs places 
to attract the yellowlegs, especially when the birds are 
traveling with the wind, or as baymen call it, a "free 
wind." 

186. Weather in Bay Bird Shooting.— The most 
favorable wind for bay snipe shooting in the summer and 
autumn is one that blows steadily from the southwest. 
The birds that are coming from the north, and flying 
against it, lower their flight and skirt the bars and mead- 
ows, and see the stools more plainly and decoys much 
bettei than when traveling with the wind in the clouds. 
A wet summer is also found to produce the best shooting, 
as the meadows afford plenty of feed, and should the 
birds arrive early in the season, they stop and make the 
large marshes their home, flying north in the morning 
and returning south toward evening. This flight bay- 
men call "a trade." 

187. Killing- a Wounded Bird.— Many gunners 
bite its neck with the teeth. This will not break the skin. 
Others squeeze the bird on both sides close under the 
wings and at the same time press the forefinger over the 
wishbone. This stops heart and lung action and causes 
almost instant death, but it is impracticable to kill large 
birds in this way. 

188. Preserving Dead Birds.— Draw and stuff 
with green grass; cover bottom of box with a layer of 
coffee grounds, then pack a layer of birds; then another 
layer of grounds, then birds, and so on until all are 
packed. The grounds should be perfectly dry. 

189. Preserving Killed Game.— Take a supply of 
paper sacks (such as grocers use), just large enough to 
put a chicken into and tie snugly. Draw the birds and 
hang by the head until they have thoroughly dripped 



72 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

and the natural heat has left them. Stuff fresh leaves or 
grass inside; put into the sacks head first, and tie sack 
tight enough to exclude the air. Put them in a cool, 
shady place until ready to ship. Birds packed in this 
way have kept over fifty hours, and when used were sweet 
and fresh, and this during the hottest weather of August. 
Never put game on ice unless you can keep it theie until 
ready to use, for it spoils in an almost incredible short 
time after being taken off. 

190. Weight of Quail and Woodcock.— The 

average weight of quail is about 6ir ounces; of woodcock 
a trifle less. Quail run from 4 to 1\ ounces; woodcock 
seldom weigh less than 5, and sometimes 8^ ounces, but 
their mean weight is a little less than that of quail. 

191. Game by Express. — When game is sent by 
express the number of heads should be noted in the 
receipt. A "bunch'' of quail may fall short. 

192. Fowlers' Terms. — Fowlers speak of a sege of 
herons or bitterns; a herd of swans, cranes or curlews; a 
deppingof sheldrakes; a spring of teals; a covert of coots; 
a gaggle of gpese; a badelynge of ducks; a sord or suteof 
mallards; a muster of peacocks; a bevy of quails; a con- 
gregation of plovers; a walk of snipes; a fall of wood- 
cocks; a brood of hens; a building of rooks; a rummura- 
tion of starlings; an exaltation of larks; a flight of swal- 
lows; a host of sparrows; a watch of nightingales; a 
charm of goldfinclies. 

193. Trapping' Season. — All furs are best in win- 
ter; but trapping may be carried on to advantage from 
Oct. 1 to April 15. In the hot months furs are worthless. 

194. Deadfalls. — A deadfall consists of two large 
poles (or logs when set for bears or other large animals) 
placed one over the other and kept in place by four 
stakes, two on each side. The upper pole is raised at 
one end high enough above the lower to admit the 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 73 

entrance of the animal, and is kept up in that position by 
the familiar contrivance of the stick and spindle, or 
"figure four." A tight pen is made with sticks, brush, 
etc, on one side of this structure, at right angles to it, 
and the spindle projects obliquely into this pen, so that 
the bait attached to it is about 8 inches beyond the side of 
the poles. The animal, to reach the bait, has to place his 
body between the poles and at right angles to them, and 
on pulling the spindle, springs the " figure four," and is 
crushed. — Newhouse. 

195. Baiting' Steel Traps. — Never put a bait upon 
the pan of a steel trap. Place it so that when the animal 
smells the bait its foot will be upon the pan. Therefore, 
either hang the bait from a stick above the trap or set it 
in an inclosure so arranged that the animal will have to 
step over the trap to reach it. 

190. Clean Your Traps. — Traps should be smoked 
or cleaned occasionally after game has been taken in 
them. 

197. Trap for Mink, — ^A mink trap is made by 
boring a 2-inch or 2i-inch hole in a log, 4 or 5 inches 
deep, and into the edges of this hole drive three sharp- 
ened nails, so that they will project half an inch or so 
inside. The bait being at the bottom, the mink pushes 
his head in to get it, but on attempting to withdraw, it is 
caught by the nails. Muskrat is good bait for them, and 
a highly praised bait is made by cutting an eel into small 
bits, which are placed in a bottle and hung in the sun, 
and after a time become an oily and very odorous mass. 
A few drops of this are used. The above simple mink 
trap may be made by using any block of wood, or a stump 
of a tree, large or small, and the same plan may be made 
use of to trap skunks, or, by using a small hole and some 
straightened fish hooks, it will serve to catch rats or 
weasels, enemies of the rural poultry yard, which may 
be thinned out by the use of this trap. 



*74 GAME, HUNTING AND TEAPPING. 

198. Trap for Mink. — For the mink, in regard to 
scent, I think that prepared from trout superior to any 
other. In summer, when I have a mess of trout to dress, 
I take some heads, etc., and put them into a strong glass 
bottle in the sun and they will turn to an oil that gives a 
very good scent — one that will attract the mink better 
than any other I have ever used, and by using a small 
chub or sucker and a few drops of the scent you have a 
killing bait. As steel traps are rather heavy to carry 
and it takes some time to set them properly, I dispense 
with them as much as possible, especially if the country 
I am trapping in is heavily timbered. In the place of 
them i take a 3 or 2^-incli auger with a short shaft, and 
having at the end of the handle a small hammer with a 
claw, and also a supply of small wrought nails with 
large heads and the points well sharpened by a file. 
Now, in ten minutes I can make, set and bait a trap for 
minks that has no equal. I find some log near a stream 
or the root of a tree, bore a hole about 4 inches deep in 
the side and throw a little mud or sand in the bottom. 
If the hole is bored in the top of the log, I have to place 
a piece of bark in a position to keep the rain from filling 
the hole with water. Then I take three sharp nails and 
drive them in so they will project inward and down- 
ward about i inch, just deep enough to make them 
secure. Then I take a piece of fish, drop a little of the 
scent on it and place it at the bottom of the hole. The 
trap is thus complete and ready baited. The mink can 
shove his head past the points of the nails to get at the 
bait, but cannot get back. In going my rounds all I 
need to do is to draw the nails, remove the mink, 
replace the nails and my trap is reset. — G. W. 

199. Trap for Foxes.— Take a common field mouse's 
skin and stufl! it. Set your trap near a stack of grain, or 
at any place where a fox is likely to pass. Cover the trap 
lightly and sprinkle some of the mouse chaff around it. 



GAME, HUJS'TING AND TRAPPING. 75 

Place the stuffed raouse on the pan of the trap so that it 
can be plainly seen. As the fox is attracted by the scent 
he will see the mouse and will not hesitate an instant, 
but will pounce both forefeet on the mouse without the 
least suspicion of a trap. It requires a strong trap to hold 
him this way. 

200. Trap for Foxes. — Select some warm springy 
place on a sidehill, or a boggy place that does not freeze 
up, and at the point where it is the wettest get some 
small pieces of turf about the size of the hand to serve as 
"steps," and beginning at one side of the wet place at 
regular intervals of about 12 inches fix them so that they 
will be strong and dry until you reach the springy or wet 
place where you wish to set the trap. Then skip one 
piece, and continue the line of steps until you get to dry 
ground on the other side. A narrow place that will re- 
quire only three or four steps on each side of the trap is 
sufficient. Then cut a strong thin piece of turf of the 
same size and appearance as the others to place over the 
pan of the trap. For scent go to some chicken house and 
get some very fine dry manure (it must be very fine and 
dry), and put it in a coarse cloth or bag. Then when the 
ground is dry drag the bag about a quarter of a mile each 
wa.y from the springy hole, where you have placed the 
turf steps. If the bag is coarse and the ground dry, you 
leave enough scent for every purpose, as the rains will not 
wash it away, but improve it. Then go to a granary or 
some place where mice abound, and get some of the mice 
chaff usually found around such places, which generally 
smells very strong of mice. Then set the trap in the 
water, and placing the last piece of turf over the pan the 
line of steps is complete. Then where you have stood 
sprinkle a little chaff and pass on, not retracing the steps; 
and as sure as a fox strikes the trail he will follow it up, 
and when he comes to the spring (a fox is very careful 
about stepping in the water) will try the steps, and as the 



76 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

first and second are all right, and hold him, and as they 
are placed about the right distance apart for his gait, he 
IS pretty sure to step his whole weight on the one con- 
cealing the trap. 

201. Trap for Otter.— The habitation of the otter 
is made in the banks of the river which it frequents, or 
sometimes in a hollow log or crevice beneath rocks. A 
short search will reveal the place where they crawl from 
the water on to the bank, and at this spot, which will 
generally be shallow, a steel trap should be set, on the 
bed of the river, about four inches under water. The trap 
should be secured by a stout chain, the latter being 
ringed to a sliding pole, which will lead the animal when 
caught into deep water. If deep water is not near at 
hand, the spring pole may be used, the object of either 
being to prevent the animal from gnawing off its leg and 
thus making its escape. The trap may also be placed at 
the top of the slide, two or three feet back of the slope, a 
place being hollowed out to receive it and the whole 
covered with snow. To make success more certain a log 
may be laid on each side of the trap, thus forming an 
avenue in which the animal will be sure to run before 
throwing itself on the slope. Care should be taken to 
handle nothing with the bare hands, as the otter is very 
keen scented and ehy. Anoint the trap with a few drops 
of fish oil or otter musk. If none of these are handy, 
ordinary musk will answer very well. The trap may also 
be set and weighted with a heavy stone and chain, as 
described for trapping the beaver. Another method still 
is to find some log in the stream having one end project- 
ing above water. Sprinkle some musk on this projecting 
end and set the trap on the log in three or four inches of 
water, securing it firmly by a chain, also beneath the 
water. — Gibson. 

202. Trapping Otter in Winter.— In the winter 
when the ponds aud riyers are frozen over the otterfj 



GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 



77 



make holes through the ice at which they come up to de- 
vour their prey. Where the water is a foot deep beneath 
any of these holes the trap may be set in the bottom, the 
chain being secured to a heavy stone. When the otter 
endeavors to emerge from the hole he will press his foot 
on the trap and will thus be caught. If the water is 
deep beneath the hole the trap may be baited with a 
small fish attached to the pan, and then carefully lowered 
with its chain and stone to the bottom. For this purpose 
the Newhouse, No. 3, is best adapted, as the otter is in 
this case caught by the head. The beaten track of the 
animal may often be discovered in the snow in the winter 
time, and a trap carefully sunk in such a furrow and 
covered so as to resemble its surroundings, will be likely 
to secure the first otter that endeavors to pass over it, — 
Gibson. 

203. Trap for Rats.— The barrel trap device pos- 
sesses great advantages in its capabilities for securing an 




almost unlimited number of the vermin in quick suc- 
cession. It also takes care of itself, requiring no re-bait- 
ing or setting af t^r once put in working ord§r, aijd is sure 



78 GAME, HUNTING AND TRAPPING. 

death to its prisoners. A water-tight barrel is the first 
thing required. Into this pour water to the depth of a 
foot. Next dampen a piece of very thick paper and 
stretch it over the top of the barrel (like a drum-head), 
tying • it securely below the upper hoops. When the 
paper dries it will become thoroughly dry and tightened. 
Its surface should then be strewn with bits of cheese, 
etc., and the barrel so placed that the rats may jump 
upon it from neighboring surface. As soon as the bait is 
gone a fresh supply should be spread on the papier, and 
the same operation repeated for several days, until the 
rats get accustomed to visit the place for their regular 
rations, fearlessly and without suspicion. This is half 
the battle, and the capture of the greedy victims of mis- 
placed confidence is now an easy matter. The bait 
should again be spread as before, and a few pieces of 
cheese should be attached to the paper with gum. It is 
a good plan to smear part of the paper with gum Arabic, 
sprinkling the bait upon it. When dry cut a cross in the 
middle of the paper, as seen in the illustration, and leave 
the barrel to take care of itself and rats. The first one 
comes along, spies the tempting morsels, and with his ac- 
customed confidence jumps upon the paper. He suddenly 
finds himself in the water at the bottom of the barrel, 
and the paper is closed and ready for the next comer. 
There is not long to wait. A second victim soon tumbles 
in to keep company with the first. A third and fourth 
soon follows, and a dozen or more are sometimes thus 
entrapped in a very short space of time. — Gibson, 

204. To Cook Small Birds.— An excellent way to 
cook a small bird, such as a peep, is to dress, remove 
head and legs, and bake it in a hollowed out potato. 



Chapter III. 
Fish and Fishing, 



205. Haiiuts of Fish.— Remember that fish dwell 
chiefly in those parts of the stream where the natural 
current carries the surface food, and that the largest fish 
select and occupy the best places. In lakes and ponds 
fish prefer spots where the coldest water is supplied by 
bottom springs or brooks emptying into the larger body 
of water. 

206. Fish on Clear Days.— Fish are most wary 
and difficult to capture on still days when the sky is cloud- 
less. 

20 7. Fish on Cokl Days.— Fish are slug-gish on 
cold, raw, blustery days, which are usually accompanied 
by north or east winds. 

208. Fish after a Storm or Flood.— Fish won't 
bite after a storm or a fiood, because these events wash 
plenty of food into the water and they are well supplied. 

209. Fish in Spring*.- Fish cannot be caught in 
spring until the snow water is all out of the stream. 

210. The Sun's Position in Fishing In fly- 
fishing, fish up or down stream so that the sun shall be 
in front of you. In bait-fishing, fish down stream. 



80 FISH AND FISHING. 

211. The Moon in FisMng-.— Fish are said to bite 
best between the new moon and the first quarter or 
between the last quarter and the "change." 

212. Playing- a Fish.— Handle your fish with care. 
Give line when you must and bring him to gafi' when you 



213. Salmon. — For salmon use the best of tackle, 
rod of split bamboo if possible, click reel and 100 to 120 
yards of braided waterproof silk line. Leaders should be 
9ft. long, of heaviest gut. Cast the fly as straight and 
light as possible, allow it to sink a few inches, then draw 
a foot or two along the surface, and repeat until another 
cast is made. 

214, Fly-Fishing- for Black Bass.— It is useless 
to cast a fly for black bass on perfectly smooth water. 
Cast the flies as lightly as possible, causing them to settle 
as quietly as thistle-down. After casting, the flies should 
be skipped along the surface in slightly curving lines, or 
by zigzag movements, occasionally allowing them to be- 
come submerged for several inches near likely-looking 
spots. If the current is swift, allow the flies to float 
naturally with it, at times, ^hen they can be skittered 
back again, or withdrawn for a new cast. Two or three 
times are enough to cast over any one spot, when a rise 
is not induced. When bass are biting eagerly or quickly, 
whipping the stream is to be practiced; that is, the casts 
are to be often and rapidly repeated, first to one side, 
then the other, allowing the flies to settle but a moment. 
In casting and manipulating the flies, the lino must be 
ever taut; for often a bass will thus hook himself, which 
he never does with a slack line. It is best to fish down 
stream, even with the wind against one. Cast just below 
ripples and rapids, over eddies and pools, along the edges 
of weed patches, under projecting banks and shelving 
rocks, near submerged trees or driftwood, off gravelly 



FISH AND FISHING. 81 

shoals, isolated rocks and long points or spurs of land: it 
is useless to fish long, deep, still reaches of water. The 
most favorable time for fly-fishing for black ba?s is dur- 
ing the last hours of the day, from sundown until dark, 
and also on bright moonlight evenings. On streams, an 
hour or two following sunrise, in warm weather, is quite 
favorable. On dark, cloudy and cold days the middle 
hours are the best. Bright sunny days, especially in hot 
weather, are not favorable to fly-fishing, excej)! in quite 
cool, shady and breezy situations. In short, the best 
conditions are a mellow or dusky light, a good breeze 
and translucent water; while the most unfavorable are a 
bright sun, a still atmosphere, and a smooth and glassy 
surface, with the water either very fine or very turbid. — 
Henshall. 

215. "Striking" the Black Bass.— The angler 
should strike by sight or by touch; that is, he should 
strike the moment he sees the rise; for the bass has either 
got the fly in his mouth, has missed it, or has already 
ejected it, when the rise is seen; it very spMoqi happens 
that the rise is seen before the fly is reached by the fish. 
The angler must also strike at the moment he feels the 
slightest touch or tug from the fish, for often the bass 
takes the fly without any break at the surface, especially 
if the flies are beneath the surface. Striking is simply a 
twist of the wrist, or half turn of the rod, either upward 
or downward (upward with stiffish rods, and downward 
with very willowy ones), which is sufficient to set the 
hook if the rod and line maintain a proper state of ten- 
sion; but when the careless angJer has a slack line, and, 
consequently, a lifeless rod, he must necessarily strike by 
a long upward or side sweep of the rod, called *' yank- 
ing;" and should he succeed in hooking the fish, the 
chances are that it will shake the hook out again before 
the slack can be reeled. The rod must always be held 
upward, so that it constantly maintains a curve with the 



S2 FISH AND PiSHim. 

line; and never under any circumstances must the rod 
point in the direction of the flies after they reach the 
water, for this allows the direct strain of the fish to come 
upon the line or leader. — Henshall. 

216. "Playing "the Black Bass —When a bass 
is hooked he must be killed on the rod; the rod must 
stand the brunt of the contest; the more pliable and 
springy the rod, the less likelihood of its breaking, 
for a stiff rod is more pliable than a flexible 
one. Give the bass more line only when he takes it; 
make him fight for every inch, and take it back when 
you can; hold him by the spring of the rod, and do not 
hesitate to turn the butt toward him to keep him away 
from weeds, rocks, snags or other dangerous places; this 
will bring him up with a round turn, and is called 
''giving the butt." Don't be in a hurry to land him; the 
longer he resists the better for your sport ; take your 
time, and only land him when he is completely ex- 
hausted; for if he is well hooked, and the proper tension 
of the rod and line maintained, he cannot get away; on 
the other hand, if he is tenderly hooked, the more gin- 
gerly he is handled the better. Therefore, never be in 
a hurry, and never attempt to force matters; always 
keep a bent rod and taut line; if the bass breaks water, 
the best plan is to lower the tip, so as to slack the line, 
and immediately raise the rod and tighten the line when 
he strikes the water again, for if he falls on the tight- 
ened line he is most sure to escape; this is one of his 
most wily tricks. — Heyishall. 

217. Black Bass Fishing- with Minnow. — Use 

minnow 4 or 5 inches long. Insert the hook in its upper 
lip and pull it out through the nostril or eye. Use a 
small braided silk line about 50 yards long and tie a 
small swivel and the smallest sinker \^ feet from the 
hook. Reel up the line as far as i)ossible, grasp the rod 
with the right hand just below the reel, put the thumb 



FISH AND FISHING. 83 

on the line to regulate it, make the cast and stop the line 
as soon as the minnow strikes the water. Small minnows 
may be hooked through the back near the dorsal fin. 
iJon't strike until the bass has had the bait 6 or 8 seconds. 
Then pull gently, and if he jerks, let him go again; if 
you feel his weight firm and solid, give a strong pull. 
Keep the minnow about a foot from the bottom in still 
waters, and use a float if you wish. In rapid waters 
keep the minnow near the surface. 

218. Black Bass Flies.— 1. Flies should be small 
rather than large. 2. On bright days and with clear or 
low water flies should be quite small and of subdued 
dark or neutral tints. 8. For cloudy days and high, 
turbid or rough water largo and brighter flies should be 
used. 4. For very dark days or from sunset until dark 
or on moonlight evenings use gray or whitish flies of 
good size. — Henshall. 

211). Black Bass Trolling. — Use the smallest 
spoon you can buy, and tie two or three gaudy flies 
above it. Row about two miles an hour, use plenty of 
line and take a course along the edge of the sub-surface 
water plants, or where the bottom of the river or lake 
suddenly deepens. 

220. Bass in Still Water.— Use but one fly when 
fishing for bass in still water. 

221. Black Bass in Pairs— Large black bass go 
in pairs all summer. If you catch one, look out for his 
mate. 

222. Lake Trout Fishing-. — Anchor a buoy in 
deep water, and cut up small fich in pieces the size of a 
butternut. Scatter the pieces around the buoy for some 
days, then tie your boat's painter to the buoy, bait your 
hook with pieces of fish such as you have been feeding 
the trout with, fish near the bottom and give your line 
short jerks. Don't bait the buoy the day you fish. 



84 FISH AND FISHING. 

223. Lake Trout Trolling-.— Use silver or brass 
spoon hooks and a sinker weighing f lb. to 1 lb. , so that 
the spoon will run near the bottom. Line should be 300 
to 500 feet long. Draw and loosen the line occasionally 
while rowing the boat, and move quite slowly. Troll in 
very deep water in summer, shallower water in spring 
and fall. 

224. Peic'li on the Fly. — Yellow perch will take 
trout hackles of gay colors. Sink the stretcher fly 2 ieet 
below the surface of the water by a buckshot sinker; then 
draw gradually toward you by several pulls. Use three 
flies and you will sometimes catch three perch at one 
cast. 

225. Shad Flies. — Where shad can be caught on a 
fly, modest brown or dun-colored lures are most effective. 

226. Roek Bass Fishing-. — In May and June rock 
bass (not "rock fish") are found along the river's edge. In 
July and August they are caught in the middle of the 
stream. Use worm or grub biit or minnows. 

227. Carp Fishing-. — Feed the fish with boiled 
potatoes, boiled oats or oatmeal in the same si)ot for 
several days, then stop feeding for a day or two, after 
which fish for them with a small trout hook baited with 
angle-worms, or with the stuff you feed them wrapped 
in fine lace. Use a float, and sink the bait near the 
bottom. 

228. Carp Fishing. — Never strike while a carp only 
nibbles. Wait till he drags the float steadily under, and 
appears to be gcmg away with it; when, seeing all clear 
and in order al^ out the line and reel for a rush, you may 
hit him smartly, and if he is a big one "look out for 
squalls;"' as his mouth is very tough and leathery, you 
may play him firmly. Get him away as soon as pos-ible 
from your pitch, so as not to frighten the rest, and land 
him as far from the pitch as you can. Then come back 
to the pitch, quietly throw in. a handf q.1 or two of ground' 



FISH AND FISHING. 85 

bait, and follow up with the hook as before, and prob- 
ably in ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, if the fish are 
well on, you may see your rush float "niggle-niggling" 
again. The best ground bait, of course, for this work is 
boiled potato. — Francis Francis. 

229. Carp Fishiug-.— When I fish for carp I have a 
fifty-foot line done up on a reel with six or seven small 
hooks on the line, and without any pole. I bait the 
hooks with stale light bread, which floats on the surface 
of the water, and the carp come to the top to suck it 
down. As soon as they feel the hook they start to run 
and I reel up the line and play with them until I worry 
them out and land them without further trouble. After 
catching one in this way they become very wild and 
timid, and it is a long time before I can get them to show 
themselves again. I caught only one with an angle- 
worm. — Oscar Reid. 

230. Cliuiniiiiiig-. — "Chumming" is a favorile 
method of fishing for striped bass and bluefi-h. The bait 
used is menhaden, called sometimes mossbunkers or 
bony fish. The line should be attached to a knobbed or 
needlcd-eyed O'Shaugbnessy hook and a turn taken over 
the upper end of the bait, which is cast to a distance of 
75 or 100 feet into the sea, then slowly reeled uj) again 
for another cast. The upper part o f the menhaden, which 
is useless for bait, should be chopped very fine and thrown 
out to attract the fish. This is called "chumming." A 
thumb stall should be used to prevent injury when check- 
ing the fish, which is done by pressing the chumb on the 
reel with more or less force. When the fish is killed 
care should be taken to yield to the motion of the surf 
when reeling in, or the line will break. Use a good long 
handled gaff for large fish. 

281. Fish Oil in Cluimming.— To aid in chum- 
ming for bluefish get a quart of fish oil and keep it 
dripping from the boat. 



86 FISH AND FISHING, 

232. Pickerel Trolling.— Trolling for pickerel 
(and jDike) should be done as near the weeds and eel 
grass as possible with 100 to 125 feet of line, rowing at a 
speed sufficient to keep the spoon near the surface. 
Early morning is the best time. When you strike a 
pickerel or pike you may often strike a second and third 
by trolling over the same spot several times. 



man often cuts from ten to fifty holes in the ice at some 
distance apart, often in different portions of the lake or 
pond, and baits his lines, usually with a live minnow, 
and sets his tip-ups to notify Iiim when his presence is 
needed at some particular hole. The primitive tip-up is 




Fig. 1. 
shown in Fig. 1. Another tip-up (Fig. 2) is cut from the 




Fig. 3. 



top of a sapling, which stands erect on its two short legs 




Fig. 3. 
when a fish bites, Another device is seen in Fig. 3, the 



FISH AND FISHING. 



SI 



broad part of the piece of board being painted red. And 
still another simple contrivance is shown in Fig. 4, a red 
flag being sometimes attached to the stick. The only 
objection to these simple tip ups is that they do not always 
indicate when a fish has taken the bait but has not been 




Fig. 4. 



hooked, unless the fisherman happens to be looking at the 
time. Fig. 5, however, causes a flag to be hoisted when 




r^ 



Fig. 5. 



the bait has been disturbed ever so little, whether the fish 



88 FISH AND FISHING. 

is hooked or not, a weight (a bullet 15 to the pound) being 
worked by the fish. The "flagstaff" is made of wire, the 
rest of pine wood. 

234. Bob for Eels (Worms).— Take a piece of 
small stiff wire, and about a yard of linen thread. Make 
a double half hitch on one enu of the wire and wet the 
thread. String worms lengthwise on the thread until it 
is full, then put another length on and continue until 
you have a dozen or more lengths. Tie the ends together, 
wind them over your hand, and then tie your fishline to 
the bunch; add a small sinker. 

235. Dobsoii Bait. — The dobson or helgramite, 
known by fifty or more different names in different parts 
of the country, is the larva of the Corydalis cornutus 




(Linn.), and is found in brooks and swift rivers under 
stones. It can be captured by putting a Janding net be- 
low a stone and then lifting the latter. It is an excellent 
bait for black bass. Keep it off the bottom or it will 
crawl under stones, and move it constantly. Hook it 
just below the head, between the joints. 

230. Bob for Eels (Meat).— Take a piece of coarse 
meat and sew this full of linen thread, crossing the thread 
in all directions. Tie to line with sinker as above. The 
best time for bobbing is early evening or just before 
moonrise. 



FISH AND FISHING. 89 

S87. Skittering.— Use a moderately stiff rod with a 
line a trifle longer than the rod. Cast the bait near the 
bank, grass or lily pads. Move the rod sideways so that 
the fish will skip like a fish trying to escape. Use min- 
now or small fish for bait, and hook through the lip. 

238. Black Chub Bait. — The black chub minnow 
is one of the best live baits for black bass. 

239. Grasshopper Bait.— Do not use a sinker with 
grasshopper bait, but let it float on the surface. Use it 
in very still parts of a stream for trout. 

240. Earthworm Bait. — Earthworms cr "angle- 
worms' will catch any fresh-water fish. In salt water 
only eels and white perch bite freely on them. ''Scour'' 
them by leaving them over night in moss. If wrapped 
in some earth in a stout cloth they can be kept fresh 
several days, and will be of a bright scarlet color and 
very lively. 

241. Raw Beef Bait.— Raw beef is the best bait 
for trout in spring before worms can be dug. 

242. Mice for Trout Bait. — Obtain a nest of 
young mice still in the pink and place the hook through 
the tail of the mouse. This is effective bait in deep ponds 
or lakes, and is used by farmers' boys, who attach several 
mouse-baited lines to shingle buoys, and wait on shore 
until the shingle signal:. The trout thus caught are 
always large. 

243. Home-Made Artificial Bait.— For black 
bass and trout take the neck and head of a Si:>eckled or 
red fowl; cut the neck off down to the breast, and save 
the skin with the feathers on. Do not remove them 
until you want to bait your hook ; then cut a strip like a 
worm and remove the feathers, but do not remove the 
little bright, glistening hairs. When on the hook it is a 
most enticing bait, and, being tough, hangs on well and 



90 FISH AND FISHING. 

looks bright. Sometimes you may want a bait like a bug 
or grasshopper, or a large miller; this you can closely 
imitate by leaving on one or two feathers. Sometimes a 
cut from the wattles, near the bill, with a feather or two, 
or a piece of the comb and a piece of the little feathers 
attached, will lure a trout when nothing else will. 

244. Carp as Bait. — A young carp about 4 inches 
long makes an excellent black bass bait, being attractive 
in appearance, lively in motion and capable of living a 
long time on the hook. 

245. Sure Bait for Pike. — One authority recom- 
mends a trolling bait made of a piece of mackerel about 
1^ inches long and i inch broad, cut so as to taper toward 
the lower end. Hook as near the extremity of the broad 
end as possible. 

240. Shertder Cral> Bait.— This favorite bait for 
salt-water fishing is found at the edge of low water 
among rocks or sunken logs, frequently sheltered by sea- 
weed or sedge. It is a soft-shell crab whose shell is about 
as hard as Bristol board. When the shell is removed it 
has a thin, tenacious skin which can be placed upon the 
hook so as to show as much as possible of the white flesh. 
One shedder may be cut into five baits, counting the 
two claws. It is the cleanest bait to handle, and 
generally the most acceptable to weakfish, bluefish (still- 
fishing), eels, blackfish, flounders and porgies. 

247. Shedder Lobster Bait.— Shedder lobster is 
as good a bait as shedder crab, but is high-priced to buy 
and difficult to obtain. 

248. Sliriiup Bait. — In any still part of a salt-water 
river or creek shrimp may be caught by running a hand 
net (made of mosquito netting in the shape of a landing 
net) along close to the shore among the sedge. Put them 
in a can of salt water or a box of damp sawdust and they 



FISH AND FISHING. 91 

will live all day. Put them on the hook from end to end, 
tail foremost, the point of the hook being concealed, or 
better yet, impale them on the point of the hook, when 
they will have freedom of motion. All salt-water fish 
like shrimp. 

249. Saiidworm Bait. — Sandworms are found in 
black sand, especially under some great rock beside the 
sea or sound at ebb tide. They grow to 14 inches in length, 
are of a red color, and fringed on either side with bran- 
chice, and have a beak which can pinch quite forcibly. 
Put them in a box wilh a small quantity of sand, not too 
much or it will suffocate them. Lay over them a little 
seaweed, and they will keep for days. For striped bass 
coil a whole one on the hook in such a way that it will 
wriggle naturally. For other fish they may be broken in 
two, only half being used at a time. About New York 
they are the most successful salt-water bait used. A dead 
sandworm is useless for bait. 

250. Clam Bait. — Soft-shell clams can be obtained 
at low water by digging in the sand with a short-handled 
hoe wherever there is a large round hole. The hard 
portions make the bait, the shells and soft portions being 
thrown overboard to attract the fish. Blackfish and snap- 
ping mackerel are especially fond of soft-shell clams, and 
other fi^h which do not swim near the bottom will bite on 
thorn. 

251. Live Bait.— Use the smallest sinkers and floats 
possible with live bait. If heavy ones are used they will 
soon tire and kill the bait. 

252. Preserving- Minnows.— In cold weather 200 
to 300 minnows may be carried for miles in a 3-gallon 
pail with a close cover, filled | with water and l with 
handfuls of clean rye or wheat straw. — Maine Fisherman. 

253. Preserving" Minnows. — To preserve min- 
nows, put a tablespoonf ul of table salt into each 3 gallons 
of water. 



92 FISH AND FISHING. 

254. Keepinj? Minnows in Fruit Jars.— "Pise- 
co" reports that lie has kept two tainnows alive in a pint 
fruit jar two-thirds full of water for 9 days. Two min- 
nows put into a jar of water that was closed air-tight 
Kved 8 days. The jars were set on a shelf in a stable. 

ti^^. Preserving- Frogs and Crawfish.— Frogs 

and crawfish may be kept alive some days by packing 
them in wet moss. 

256. Preserving' Crabs. — To keep soft-shell crabs, 
pack them closely together, claws up, in a box, cover 
with green seaweed or fresh grass; keep cool. 

257. Hooking- Minnow Bait. — For casting or troll- 
ing, hook the minnow through the rim or cartilage of both 
lips. For still-fishing, use small hooks, and insert the 
hook through the middle of the back just above the back 
bone. 

258. Minnow Decoys. — Sink a bottle of water with 
minnows in it— eight or ten to a quart — to attract fish to 
the spot. 

259. The " Whip,"— The leader with its flies is 
called the whip. The fly at the end is the stretcher, 
drag-fly or tail-fly; those above are drop-flies, droppers 
or bobbers. The stretcher should generally be tlie largest 
(Roosevelt says the smallest), as, the weight being then 
at the end, a longer cast cun be made and the resistance 
in drawing it over the surface keeps the leader taut. 
When casting a short line (18 to 25 feet), the dropper 
should not be more than 30 inciies from the stretcher. 
When the novice learns to cast well the flies may be 4 
feet apart. For the beginner the leader should not be 
more that 6 feet long. After it may be increased to 8 or 
10 feet. 

260. Rigging" the Cast.— In rigging the cast for 
fly-fishing, if the leader is provided with loops at each 



FISH AND FISHING. 93 

end, and for drop-flies, proceed as follows: To the small 
end of the leader attach the stretcher or tail-fly by pass- 
ing the loop of the leader through the loop of the snell 
and over the fly, then draw together. Three or four feet 
from the tail-fly attach the dropper or bob-fly, in the same 
manner, that is, put the loop of the snell over the loop of 
the leader, and push the fly through the latter loop and 
draw tight; or, if the leader is not furnished with loops 
for this purpose, slip a knot of the leader (about 3 or 4 feet 
from the tail-fly) apart, and after making a knot in the 
end of the snell of the fly, put it through the opened knot 
of the leader and draw together; this will hold Arm, and 
the dropper-fly will stand at right angles from the leader. 
If, however, the gut lengths of the leader are tied by hard, 
close knots, instead of the slip knot or double water knot, 
then the snell of the dropper must be attached close to, 
and above a knot of the leader, by a single knot or half- 
hitch, a round knot having previously been made in the 
end of the snell, to prevent the half-hitch from working 
loose; this is probably as good and safe a way as any. If 
the angler wishes to employ three, the third fly, or second 
dropper, must be attached 3 feet above the first dropper; 
in this case the leader should be 9 feet long. 

261. Knot for Sno d Loops.— Hold the cord in 
the left hand, and with the right hand make first a small 
(Fig. 1) and then a larger loop (Fig. 2), placing the end of 




Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 



the cord under the smaller one (Fig. 3). Now insert the 
large loop through the smaller one from the back at A 
and draw tight. 



H 



FISH AND FISHING. 



262. Attaching Droppers. — In tying lengths of 
gut together to make the leader, when you arrive at the 
point where it is desired to have a dropper loop, say 30 
inches for a fine trout leader, or 3 feet for a heavy trout 
or bass, from the lower end to which the stretcher fly is 
looped, double the gut back, making a loop up the leader, 
lay the other upper strand alongside, as in Fig, 1, then 
make a curl in them all and pass loop and line gut 
through, or in other words, make a knot, as in ordinary 
tying. It will then present the appearance of Fig. 2. 
Then draw down tight, and having the gut well soaked 
and soft, take the loop just tied in one hand and the 
upper end, C, in the other, and pull them strongly apart, 
so that the loop will be pulled down the line. Then, 
when released, instead of pointing straight up the leader 




^-^ 



F.gA 



and lying hard on C, it will point out nearly at right 
angles. The loop is seen on a completed leader in Fig. 3, 
in which A is the stretcher loop, B the dropper loop and 
C the upper or reel line loop. This way enables any man, 
whether he be an adept in making tackle or not, to fasten 



FISH AND FISHING. 95 

on or take off in a moment a dropper as easily as a 
stretcher. The advantage of tying the loop into the line 
in this way is that pointing up and being a short stiff 
loop, the dropper always stands out at a right angle with 
the line, making it an impossibility for it to foul with 
the leader; the hook is never curled over the line, so if a 
fish strikes he gets it into his mouth as easily as the 
stretcher fly. 

2G3, Wtix for Siielling- Hooks.— Burgundy pitch 
120 grains, white resin 60 grains, tallow 20 grains. Pow- 
der and mix the pitch and resin and put into an oven in 
a pipkin. When melted add the tallow and stir all to- 
gether. Let the mixture stand twelve hours. — H. Chol- 
mondeley-Peniiell. 

264. Wax for Gut Leader.— Take 2 ounces best 
resin and ^ ounce beeswax, simmer together in pipkin 
for 10 minutes; add ^ ounce tallow; continue to simmer 
15 minutes; then pour the mass into a basin of cold water 
and work with the fingers until it is pliable. 

265. Snelliiig- or Giinpiuj? Hooks.— When the 
gut is selected cut off the imperfect ends and place it in 
tepid water until it is thoroughly soaked and soft, then 
tie the end loop by doubling one end of the gut length 
and making a common knot in the doubled portion. 




The hook can now be tied on while the gut is soft, 
or the gut may, by making a knot in one end and using 
a- Tom in the loop, b^ «*:rptched on a board to dry and then 



96 FISH AND FISHING. 

tied. The whipping is the same in either case, but if the 
gut is whipped after it is dry, the parts to be covered by 
the silk must be nicked or dented, which is done between 
the teeth, care being taken not to bite so hard as to split 
the gut. You will find the whipping equally secure 
whether the gut is either wet or dry. Another thing you 
will find makes no difference; that is, whether the 
whipi^ing begins at the end of the shank and extends 
toward the bend of the hook or vice versa. From tying 
reenforced snells, one gets into the habit of beginning 
the rounding at the end of the shank; but if you always 
fasten the silk with an invisible knot, there is little dan- 
ger of a fish cutting the knot with its teeth, as has been 
claimed they will do. A snell is quite apt to become 
weak or even break just at the end of the shank from 
contact with it. Some shanks terminate in a veritable 
point; such are cut off with a pair of cutting pliers and 
then filed smooth with a fine file, but all hooks larger than 
No. 3 Dublin, Limerick (O'Shaughnessy), are "reenforced" 
by making the gut double for half or three-quarters of an 
inch above the end of shank. The easier way to do this 
is to make a long loop with a common knot similar to 
the loop made for attaching the snell to the leader. If 
one's gut-lengths will not warrant this appropriation, a 
short piece of gut may be wound on to the shank with 
the snell, and the free end of the extra piece fastened to 
the snell with a bit of waxed silk. Having gut-lengths, 
hooks, wax and silk, wax thoroughly a piece of silk by 
holding one end between the teeth t^nd the other in the 
left hand. Holding the hook at the bend between the 
finger and thumb of the left hand, lay the end of the 
waxed silk on the shank a little above the point of the 
hook and take four, five or six turns, according to size of 
hook, with the silk around shank until the end is reached. 
Then make three or four turns of the silk close together, 
just at the ends, so as to completely cover it, as a cushion 
or shield against the wear of the steel, should it come in 



FISH AND FISHING. 97 

direct contact with the gut. These first few turns of the 
silk make a spiral ridge around the shank which acts like 




the marks on the straight shank when using soaked gut, 
and with dry gut act in combination with the dents 
made with the teeth to prevent the steel and gut pulling 
apart. When the end of shank is covered, lay the gut 
length on the back of the shank and wind the silk closely 
and tightly to the point of beginning. Notice the silk as 
you wind to see that it is well waxed, or wax as occasion 
demands. When the starting point is reached lay the free 
end of the silk on the winding with the end toward the 
end of shank, which makes a loop in the silk, then take 
the slack of the loop and continue winding for three or 
four turns, but wind over the free end of the silk. The 
following diagram will show the manner: 




A A, free end of silk turned back on winding. Take 
slack of loop at B and wind over silk, A A. Then take 
free end of silk and draw tight and cut off closely. When 
the winding or whipping is finished it will be found that 
the wax has been squeezed to the outside of the silk by 
the pressure in winding. This must be rubbed smooth 
with finger and thumb, when it will appear that the silk 
is nicely coated with the wax. With a camel's hair brush 
go over the winding with orange shellac and put aside to 
dry until the alcohol evaporates, leaving a smooth coat- 



98 FISH AND FISHING. 

ing of shellac over the silk and wax. It may be necessary 
to renew the shellac after a time, but one will have had 
so much fishing with hooks tied in this manner before it 
is necessary, that it will be done with thanks for past 
services. Hooks are tied to gimp in the same way as 
above described , except black linen thread is used instead 
of silk, and the loop in the end of the gimp snell must be 
made by winding the doubled parts instead of tying. 

2G(>. Suelliiig- Hooks.— Grasp the hook by the bend 
in a pair of pliers, and heat the tapered end of the hook 
in the flame of a spirit lamp till it will melt wax readily. 
Then give it a coating by rubbing it on a lump of shoe- 
maker's wax. The hook should be hot enough to burn it 
on, so as to form a smooth, even coat of wax. Then tie 
on snell in the usual way with waxed silk thread and 
finish with shellac. An occasional coat of shellac will 
preserve them till worn out. They will never slip. The 
object of using the pliers is not only to prevent burning 
the fingers, but to prevent the heat drawing the temper 
of the hook above where it is grasped by the pliers. — N. 

20 7. Snelliiig* Hooks.— Get a roll of rubber cement 
such as is used to fasten bicycle tires (it can be procured 
where bicycles are sold), warm the shank of the hook in 
a lamp sufficient to melt the cement, then draw the 
shank of the hook across a piece of the cement and 
enough will adhere to answer the purpose. Let it cool 
for a second to prevent it from sticking to the fingers, 
then press the end of the snell on in just the position you 
wish it to remain. After allowing the cement to stiffen 
a little more wrap with good thread, and if you have 
just the proper quantity of cement and the right con- 
sistency the wrapping thread will bury into the cement 
smoothly; it will be perfectly waterproof and stick to 
business under all circumstances. The cement also 
answers well to waterproof thread or cord for wrapping- 
use as you would cobbler's ^2i^.— Calif ornian. 



PISH AND FISHING. 90 

268. Siioorting- Hooks.— To snood hooks with silk- 
worm gut, instead of fastening the gut direectly to the 
hook, fasten a small loop of relaid linen line No. 5 to the 
hook. The loop should be quite small, not over ^ inch. 
Then prepare the gut by tying a loop at each end, one 
for attaching the hook through the small loop on hook, 
the other for attaching the line. Many advantages are 
gained by this method, the gut is double near the hook, 
it also forms a flexible joint and avoids the annoyance 
of chafing or breaking off by being bent short; in case a 
hook is broken, another can be easily attached to the 
same gut. Hooks and gut can be carried separately and 
attached when required for use. — Calif ornian. 

269. Fly-Casting- Liessons.— The novice may try 
casting on snow or grass without flies or anything beyond 
a simple knot in the end of his line to keep it from fray- 
ing out. The first thing to be impressed is not to attempt 
long casts; these are for the distant future. Water is by 
far the best medium to learn to cast upon, for the resist- 
ance to the line when retrieving is exactly what he will 
experience in actual fishing. For the first cast he takes 
his position where there is no obstacle behind him to 
interfere with his back cast. It is entirely upon this 
back cast, or the retrieving of the line that his success 
depends. It must on no account touch the ground or 
water behind him. Let him begin with about fifteen 
feet of line, his rod in an erect position, and then make 
a forward cast; his elbow close to the body and the move- 
ment mainly with the wrist. As the line lies out upcn 
the water, with the rod parallel to its surface, he should 
draw it back a foot or two slowly, gradually increasing 
its speed, and then with the spring of the rod send it up 
behind him with an upward motion of his wrist, stop his 
rod at nearly a vertical position; then allowing just as 
much time for the line to be straightened out behind f;s 
it occupied in going forward, let him make the cast 



100 FISH AND FISHING. 

again with his wrist and send it forward. He should 
practice this until he can lay his line straight upon the 
water in the spot where he wishes it to land. When he 
has accomplished this to his satisfaction, let him take his 
left hand and reel off a few feet more line while it lies 
upon the water and before he retrieves it. The resistance 
of the water will then draw this extra line through the 
rings, and he must allow a little more time for the line to 
get behind him than he did before. He must also bear 
in mind that his rod must not stand at a greater angle 
than forty- five degrees behind him, and if he attempts to 
stop it when it is vertical he will find it will go back to 
about this angle. It would be well to count one, two, 
three backward, timing it as a musician counts his beats. 
As he gets out more line, it will be necessary to draw it 
slightly nearer him, in order to start it from the water, 
than when he was making shorter casts; but in all cases 
he must start it slowly, increasing the speed until he 
gives it a twitch which sends it back, always bearing in 
mind that it is the rod which is to do the work by its 
spring, and not entirely his muscles. The cast of a fly is 
a sleight which is only to be acquired by practice. 
Should he fail in giving it time to straighten out behind 
him, he will hear a snap like the crack of a whip, which, 
in case he had a fly upon the leader, would be snapped 
off; yet, should he give it too much time, he will find 
that the line falls in the water behind him and impedes 
his cast. A longer cast can be made without flies than 
with them, as a rule, and only when he attains the pro- 
ficiency of having his back cast go straight out behind 
him, and can start it just at that moment when it 
straightens, without looking behind to see where it is, 
should he attempt to use the fly. There is a peculiar up- 
ward motion of the wrist attained only by practice which 
sends the fly, instead of straight behind the caster, up 
into the air, and an expert can do this without danger of 
catching low bushes, such as alders, etc., which may be 



FISH AND FISHING. 101 

close behind. It is during these early days of practice 
that the novice will acquire a sleight of hand, good or 
bad, which will stick to him for a long time. Practicing 
alone he cannot judge of his faults of style. He should 
beware of slashing his line forward in the hope of get- 
ting it out by main strength ; remembering that the elas- 
ticity of the rod is the projecting power, and that the 
physical strength of the caster is a very small fac- 
tor in sending a fly to a distance. Keeping his elbow 
close to the body in the beginning will teach him 
to depend upon his wrist more than upon his arm. 
A beginner should never attempt to cast beyond twenty- 
five or thirty feet, until he can lay his line straight and 
without kink upon the water for that distance. He 
should pay attention to the falling of the flies upon the 
water. The first efforts will doubtless be accompanied 
by a splash. He can, however, soon acquire the trick of 
checking the line and so regulating the tip of his rod that 
the flies will fall gently. This is one of the most difficult 
things to explain, but quite easy to do. It is perfectly 
possible, at a distance of forty or fifty feet, to cast, check 
the line, and raise the tip in such a manner that the flies 
shall alight before the line does. In actual fishing we do 
not often do this, and it is perhaps more ornamental than 
u-eful. In long casts the line will strike the water be- 
yond its middle and gradually follow out until the end is 
reached, even the point w^here the leader is joined to the 
line being in advance of the flies, until this point touches 
the water, where the flies go on beyond and straighten 
out to the full length of the cast. The beginner should, 
by all means, have a friend to watch wiien the line 
goes behind him, and caution him to give more or not 
quite so much time, although it is seldom the latter 
caution will be used. Our own experience in teaching 
novices has been that they fail in not giving the line time 
enough behind them in order to have it perfectly straight 
and no whip cracking in the rear. In practice haste 



102 FISH AND FISHING. 

should be made slowly, and a certain distance should be 
well covered and cast with certainty every time before 
any increase is attempted. Casting with the wind is by 
far the easiest, and one should begin in this way if there 
is any wind; afterward he should cast against the wdnd, 
when he will find that with a moderate breeze he requires 
more vim in the cast than he does in the recovery when 
the wind helps him to get his line well behind. He 
should by all means learn to cast with both hands, that 
in actual fishing he may rest one arm by casting with the 
other, a very great advantage, as he will find in a day's 
work. No amount of teaching will make him a good 
caster, practice alone will do this. 

270. Points in Fly-Fishingr.— Keep your trout 
line always straight by the motion of the hand, and your 
fly will keep to the surface whether in still or quick 
water. In a running stream draw your fly up and athwart 
the current, sometimes letting it drop down a little. What 
you want in fly-fishing is motion, always motion. 

271. The " Strike " in Fly-Casting.— When you 
have learned to cast flies with some little skill, try to 
catch a trout. You will find that casting flies and catch- 
ing trout are not precisely one and the same thing. You 
will read in books that the instant you see a rise, strike. 
Don't do it, at least not yet. For the present, when you 
get arise, wait until you feel your fish, then a light strike 
will fasten it. You are but a beginner and your enthus- 
iasm will very likely cause you to forget the delicate 
nature of your apparatus. If you strike hard you are 
likely to break your rod, or if the fish is small you are 
liable to s<^nd him sailing through the air over into the 
next county. Therefore strike just hard enough to fasten 
your fish and play him in the water until he turns over 
exhausted. If he pulls too hard of course you will give 
him line, but make him earn every inch. When he seems 
very weary you can reel him in, but look out for his last 



FISH AND FISHING. 103 

break, for every fish, no matter how tired he may seem, 
will make a final vicious rush for liberty when he is 
brouglit near tlie landing net, and his capers in this last 
frantic struggle are dangerous and often end in his escape. 
— Kit Clarke. 

273. Casting- Against the Wind.— In fly-casting 
against tlie wind, lift your line from the water so that it 
extends behind you at an angle of 45°; then bring your 
rod down sharply right on to the water, and straight 
against the wind. This makes the line cut through it 
and extend out straight on to the water. — Ira Wood. 

273. Casting Sidewise for Trout.— Casting side- 
wise is preferred when possible in trout fishing, as the 
wary trout is easily startled by the motion of the rod in 
the air. 

274-. Fly Philosophy,— The insects that are most 
common about the locality fished are the ones to imitate 
i 1 artificial flies. Dark days, evenings, and deep or dis- 
colored waters, use larger and brighter flies ; clear or low 
water or bright days, use smaller and plain-colored flies. 

275. Size of Flies.— Most artificial flies sold are too 
large. Trout flies, especially, are often so big as to 
frighten instead of alluring the fish. Bass flies are much 
smaller now than they were a few years ago, and the 
tendency is for yet smaller ones. 

276. Color of Leaders. — In still water success will 
be small unless the leader is of the same color as grasses, 
weeds, etc., that the fish are accustomed to. In brisk 
water this plan may be followed, or the leader be of 
"mist" color. 

277. Sink the Fly.— Success is frequently had in 
black bass fishing by attaching a buckshot to the 
stretcher fly and allowing it to sink about 2 feet below 
the surface, drawing it gradually toward the boat. 



104 FISH AND FISHING. 

278. Caution in Fly-Fisliing-.— More caution is 
necessary in fly-fishing than in bait-fishing, as objects 
beneath the surface of the water do not frighten the fish 
so readily as objects on or over the surface. Keep out of 
sight of the fish, don't let the shadow of your red or 
yourself fall on the water, and keep as motionless as pos- 
sible. 

279. Landing Net for Fly-Fishing.— For fly- 
fishing a short-handled net is the best, and should be as 
light as possible. Those with wooden rims are as good 
as any, though the folding ring nets are more convenient 
and portable. The net should be of good depth, and of 
rather coarse mesh. When the fishing is done from a 
boat, the long-handled net is preferable, but when fishing 
a stream by wading, or from the bank, the short-handled 
net is more easily carried, and answers every purpose 
better than the long one. 

280. Fly-Fi shiner in Smooth Water.— In clear, 
smooth water, let the fly sink a little, then move it 
with a quick motion. 

281. Minnow Casting-. — In casting for black bass, 
having properly adjusted the rod, reel and line, tie on the 
swivel by one of its rings, and loop the snell of the hook 
through the other; run the point of the hook through the 
under lip and out at the nostril of a good sized minnow, 
say 4 inches long, reel up the line until the swivel touches 
the tip and make a cast. The anglor is supposed to be 
standing at A, facing N, and his shoulders in a line with 
XZ. Casting th»3 minnow is an entirely different process 
from casting the fly. A minnow can be cast but a very 
short distance immediately in front of the angler, and all 
long casts must be made sidewise, that is. to the left or 
right. To make a long cast to the left we will suppose X 
to be the objective point to which the minnow is to be 
c^^st. The angler now grasps the rod immediately below 



FISH AND FISHING. 



105 



the reel with the right hand, with the thumb resting 
lightly but firmly upon the spool ; the right arm is now 
extended downward , slightly bent with the elbow near 
the body, and with the extreme butt of the rod nearly 
touching the right hip; the thumb and reel are upward, 
inclining slightly toward the left; the tip of the rod, or 
rather the minnow, just clears the ground or surface of 
the water; the position of the rod is now in the direction 
of the line A B, inclining toward the ground or water, 
making an angle of about 45 degrees with the line of the 




shoulders, XZ; this is the situation at the beginning of 
the cast. Now for the cast: The angler turns his face 
toward X, the objective point, looking over his left 
shoulder without turning his body; he now inclines his 
body in the direction of B, advancing the right foot and 
bending the right knee slightly, and makes a sweeping 
cast from the right to the left, and from below upward, 
across the body diagonally, until the rod hand is at the 
height of the left shoulder, and the arm and rod extended 
in the direction of A C, with the tip of the rod inclining 
upward. The movement of the right hand is almost in a 
straight line from a point near the right hip to a point 
near the left shoulder; the motion in casting is steady, 



106 FISH AND FISHINO. 

increasing in swiftness toward the end of the cast, and 
ending with the "pitching" of the bait — instead of a 
violent jerk — somewhat similar to the straight under- 
hand pitching of a base ball. In making the cast, the 
right elbow should touch the body, sweeping across it, 
and only leave it at the end of the cast, making the fore 
arm do the work. At the end of the cast the reel and 
thumb are upward, and the rod forms an angle of 45 
degrees with the line of the shoulders XZ, and the min- 
now instead of following the direction of the rod A C, as 
some might suppose, will diverge toward the left, and 
drop at X, when the thumb should i mmediately stop the 
reel by an increased pressure. Casting to the right is 
just the reverse of the above proceeding. The angler 
being in the same position, brings the right hand across, 
and touching the body, to a point in front of the left hip, 
the thumb and reel upward, but inclining toward the 
body, and the rod extending in the direction of the line 
AC, with the tip downward; he now turns his face in 
the direction of the objective point Z, inclines his body 
and advances his left foot in the direction of C, and 
makes a cast from left to right, and from below upward, 
and ends the cast with the right arm and rod fully ex- 
tended in the direction of the line A B, while the minnow 
takes its flight toward Z. In making a cast to either left 
or right the body should sway or move slightly in the 
direction, and simultaneously with the rod arm; it will 
give force and steadiness to the cast; but on no account 
must the body be turned around or the feet moved during 
the cast; let us be graceful if we cannot be proficient. 
The first cast that the beginner makes will be likely to 
throw the bait behind him; this will be because he will 
not end the cast in time, but carry the tip of the rod too 
far toward the line XZ. He should by all means begin 
by making short casts, and lengthening them as he per- 
fects himself by experience in managing the reel and 
controlling the cast.— He^ishall. 



FISH AND FISHING. 107 

282. Position of the Reel.— The weight of a reel 
naturally causes it to turn to the bottom; hence when it 
is placed there it is quiescent and requires no strain of 
muscle to keep it in position. A reel on the bottom of a 
rod held in the left hand comes in position to work the 
crank with the right when needed. When the fish is 
likely to demand the whole spring of the rod then of 
course he is not being reeled in. A heavy reel on top or 
on the side of a rod keeps twisting to get below. 

283. Swelliug- of Rod Joints.— The swelling of 
the joints of a rod can be prevented by rubbing them 
with mutton tallow and loosening them every night. 
Use the same precaution with reel bands. 

284. Tight Joints in a Rod.— To loosen the tight 
joints of a rod heat them with a lighted match. 

285. Putting- Away Rods.— Rods should be rubbed 
with a cloth and hung up or laid out straight. 

286. Broken Rod Guides.— When a guide on your 
rod breaks supply a new one immediately and thus save 
a broken rod. 

287. Varnish for Rods.— Thin down coach body 
varnish with spirits of turpentine until you can apply a 
coat so thin that no brush marks show. Hang the rod 
then in the wind and sun, and when perfectly dry apply 
another coat. Three or four coats will suffice. 

288. Varnisli for Rods.— At the beginning of the 
season clean all the metal parts with rottenstone and 
sweet oil, but never touch the m^ale ferrules. Then with 
a piece of old fine felt, a little extra fine pumicestone 
and raw linseed oil rub it down thoroughly, being care- 
ful in the wiping not to chafe the silk; wipe off very 
clean and let it stand for a day or two to get dry. Then 
take a fine-haired flat brash and with hard oil finish 
give one coat, suspend the rod by strings for one or two 



108 FISH AND FISHING. 

days and give the secoad coat, and suspend again for five 
days or more and let it get hard. Now take old felt, raw 
oil and rottenstone and rub it lightly, but thoroughly; 
wipe off with an old rag and you will have a handsomely 
finished rod. Water will not affect it. When you quit 
fishing wipe the rod dry, and when you get home or 
to camp rub it well with raw oil on a rag and oil the 
male ferrules with a drop of good gun oil, polish your 
mountings, place in a partition bag and hang up in a 
cool place. If you tie the bag tie it loosely. — W. S. S. 

289. VaruiKSliing- Trout Rods.- Highly varnished 
trout rods no doubt scare many fish. A rod of dull tint 
is preferable. 

290. I>yeing' Lines. — To dye blue, soak in indigo 
water; the stronger the dye the deeper the color. To dye 
green, soak in a strong decoction of green tea. To dye 
brown, soak in strong coffee. 

291. I>ye for Leaders. — Dye leaders used in clear 
water with the juice of milkweed, or equal portions of 
Arnold's fluid (ink) and water. To dye green use Ar- 
nold's fluid "straight." 

292. Preserving Out. — Silkworm gut will keep 
nicely if laid full length in paper slightly oiled and the 
rolled gut and paper placed in chamois skin. 

293. Kusted Gut. — When gut comes in contact 
with the hook it will frequently rust, making a weak 
spot. To prevent this wrap the hook first with silk or 
thread so closely that when the gut is afterward wrapped 
on it will not touch the hook. 

294. Fractured Gut. — Tests made by "Piseco" 
demonstrated that when a length of gut leader has been 
once broken by a strain it is so weakened by the force of 
the strain that it is injured through its entire length, and 
is worthless thereafter. 



FISH AND FISHING. 109 

295. Soften Silk Gut.— Soak for some hours in 
strong vinegar. 

296. Soften Snells.— Snells should not be used until 
softened, the same as a leader. 

297. Waterproofing a Linen Line.— Saturate 
with fine paraffine dissolved in pure benzine. It will be 
well preserved and will render well through the guides. 

298. Waterproofing' a Silk Line.— Soak it in 
boiled linseed oil, and strip off superfluous residue by- 
drawing the line through the thumb and finger. Singe 
off frayed fibres. 

299. Waterproofing a Silk Line.— Take 2 parts 
boiled linseed oil and 1 part best coach-body varnish 
mixed together and warmed until it will singe a feather. 
Soak twice and rub once, the mixture being at a tempera- 
ture not exceeding 100' Fahr. Finish and polish with 
paraffine candle. — H. P. Wells. 

300. Kinking Lines.— The kink in a line can be 
removed by dragging it at full length for some time in 
the water astern of a boat. 

301. Moths in Fly-Books. —Fly-books should be 
frequently examined to see that no moths are destroying 
them. 

302. Preserving a Net.— To preserve a landing 
net, soak ifc thoroughly in linseed oil; shake it, and hang 
up in the sun to dry. Shake off the drops of oil as they 
collect on the net until it is dry. 

303. Cork Floats —With a sharp knife cut a lon- 
gitudinal slit half way through a large bottle cork, and 
draw the line into the slit tightly. 

304. Sheet-Lead Sinkers.— If you carry with you 
some sheet-lead you can always make a sinker just the 
weight you desire by wrapping it around the line, 



no FISH AND FISHING. 

305. Carry a File.— A small file is a handy tool on 
a fishing excursion. Many fish are lost because the point 
of a hook is dull. 

306. Adjuncts to Fishing Outfit.— Besides a file 
it is handy to have a small hand vise to hold your hook 
while filing its points or while wrapping on a snood. 
Pliers are useful, so are cutting pliers and oil for reel and 
swivels; also silk for wrapping, wax and shellac. 

307. Pocket Minnow Nef.- Take a bung or round 
block of wood of 2^ to 3 inches in diameter and bore four 
holes opposite to each other in the edge of it. Then insert 
a piece of umbrella rib, about 12 to 14 inches long, in 
each hole. The holes must be made deep and small 
enough for the wire to fit tight. The paragon wire is 
the best. Leave the end of the rib that has the little eye 
in it outside. Lay the bung and wires on a square piece 
of mosquito netting and stretch it and sew it firmly at 
the four corners to the eyes in the ribs. In the center of 
the bung put a screw-eye, and in the center of the 
mosquito net sew a piece of string, leaving ends about 8 
inches long. Any straight, stifl" stick picked up on the 
shore serves as a handle, being made fast to the net by a 
strong piece of twine through the screw-eye, and with a 
piece of bread tied in the net with the string, and per- 
haps a small, flat stone to make it sink, it is ready to 
catch minnows. They will come over the net for the 
bread, and when it is raised up quickly, the resistance of 
th? water causes it to belly, and the minnows will not 
get out. When bait enough has been taken, pull the 
wires out of the holes, drop the bung into the net and 
roll it up on the wires. — E. A. R. 

308. Fishing- llaft. — Make a crib of pine or other 
light wood logs, say 8 x 10 feet . Cover the top with 1-inch 
or ^-inch boards. Take a box 10 x 20 inches, bore small holes 
in the bottom and sides; nail a strip on each side of the box 
near the top so that they project about 8 inches beyons 



Pish and fishing. in 

the box on both sides. Cut a hole in the raft the size of 
the box, put in the box, which will fill with water and rest 
on the strips. Put the live fish in the box. 

309. Live-Bait Boat.— Make top and bottom pieces 
of half-inch pine. Cut an opening in the top conforming 
to the shape of the boat, as in cut, or a square opening- 
will answer. Connect top and bottom pieces with up- 




rights. Make the sides of one piece of wire-cloth nailed 
on with broad-headed galvanized nails. Make a wire- 
cloth door for the top, swinging on two staples for hinges. 
A hoop and staple to fasten the door and a ring in the 
stem piece to attach the tow-line complete the boat. 

310. Permaneut Fish Box. — When camping and 
desiring to save the biggest fish to take home, have some 
wire screening 5 feet wide, drive stakes strongly in 2 feet 
of water, put the screening around the stakes and press 
it into the sand at the bottom of river. 



112 FISH AND FISHING. 

311. Kill Fish when Caught. — If killed as soon 
as caught fish will keep longer, and the flesh will be 
better than that of those allowed to die slowly. 

312. Killing- Fish.— To kill a fish when caught, put 
the thumb into the gill and break its neck ; or hit it a smart 
rap on the back just behind the head with a stick or knife 
handle. 

313. Holding a Lively Eel. — To hang on to a 
lively eel while removing the hook from his mouth, grasp 
his body with the middle finger over him and the first 
and third fingers under him. Press upward with the 
first and third fingers, downward with the middle finger. 

314. Skinning Eels. — To skin an eel, rub the tail 
under the foot until the skin splits, then draw the skin 
off over the head. This takes out all the fin bones. 

315. Skinning Eels. — To skin an eel, roll him first 
in ashes or dust so that his skin won't be slippery. Then 
cut the skin around the neck near the head, make a lon- 
gitudinal slit half the length of his body, and grasping 
the skin firmly near the head peel it off over his tail. 

316. Comparative Weights of Fly-Rod Ma- 
terial. — Mr. H. P. Wells has prepared the following 

table: 

Weight of one 

Material. Specific Gravity. Cubic Foot. 

Snakewood 1.3718 85.74 

Bethabara I.:il40 75.98 

Greenhoart 1.0908 68.18 

Lancewood 1.0335 64,59 

Split-bamboo, 6- strip, hexagonal, 

rind outside 0.9915 61 96 

Split-bamboo, 4-strip, rind inside.. 0.9678 60,49 

Iron wood (hornbeam) . 8184 51 , 15 

Hickory 0.7963 49.78 

Ash 0.7786 48.06 

Mahoe 0. 6C07 4i .29 

Cedar 0.6396 3D.98 



FISH AND FISHING. 



113 



317. Size and Weig-lit of Fish.— The followiog 
table gives the approximate weights of certain fish ac- 
cording to their length : 



Length. 



Inches. 
9 .. 
10.... 
11.... 
12... 
13.. . 
14... 

15 . . 

16 ... 
17... 
18.... 
19.... 
30.... 
21... 
23.... 
23... 
24.... 
25 



28. 



Salmon. 



lbs. oz. 



30 


10 


31 


11 


32 


12 


33 


14 


34 


15 


35 


16 


36 


18 


37 


19 


38 


21 


39 


23 


40 


24 


41 


26 


42 


28 


43 


31 


44 


33 


45 


34 


46 


37 



654 

im 

lOM 

8 

m 



514 
12 

3 
12 

If 

14M 

i 



Weight. 




318. Preserving Trout.— Clean and wipe dry. 
Sprinkle corn meal on the inside. Pack in meal in a 
tight box. 



114 MSH AND FTSHINa. 

319. Size and Weight of Black Bass.— Small 
fish weigh less in proportion to their length than larger 
ones. From some memoranda the following table of 
relative lengths and weights of black bass has been pre- 
pared, the lengths being from nose to end of tail fin: 

Le7}gth. 

8 inches 



Weiriht. 
Lhs. Oz. 




8 




11 




15 




2 




6 




8 




12 






2 


4 


2 


10 


3 


2 


3 


8 



9^ " 

10 " 

lOH " 

11 " 

im " 

13 " 

13 " 

14 " 

14^ " 

15 " 

320. Size and Weight of Black Bass.— List of 
measurements of small-mouthed black bass, taken in the 
month of May (at the Bass Islands, Lake Erie), when they 
are in prime condition: 

Length. GiHh. Weight. 

12 inches 8 inches 1 pound 6 ounces. 

14 " 11 " 2 '' G " 

15 " llYa '' 3 '' 14 

30 " 13 '' 4 " 5 

20 " 141^ " 5 '' 

311^ '' 161^ '' 6 " 8 

321. Fish liie Preventive. --Carry with you a 
small scale to weigh your fish. 

322. Preserving Trout. — Trout carefully dressed 
may be preserved several days fresh and sweet, without 
ice or salt, by wrapping them in the long white moss 
found in the swamps in the vicinity of the lakes and 
streams where trout are caught, and placing them in a 
cool shady place; a hole in the ground covered over with 
a foot or more of earth is a good place. — Ferris. 



FISH AND FISHING, 115 

323. Anglers' Knots.— Bow- 
line Knot. — This knot is used in 
making loops in the ends of casting 
lines, and for many other purposes 
where a knot is required that will 
not slip. 

324. A Good Knot lor Casting Lines.— Be 

sure both ends of each knot come out the same side of 





the loop, and that one knot is exactly the reverse of the 
other. Make each knot tight and pull them together and 
nothing can make it slip. 

325. How^ to make a Fly Loop in a Casting- 
Line. — First make an ordinary slip knot in the line and 
draw it tight. Then take the bight of the line close to 




the knot, make a half hitch (2) and slip it over the slip 
knot (1) below the loop and tight knot, and draw tight. 
The slip knot loop will not then draw out and will re- 
main the size required. 

326. How to attaeh the Reel Line 
to the Casting Line.— When this knot is 
drawn tight the end of the reel line should 
stick out about ^ inch. To untie this knot pull 
the short end of the reel line down toward the 
casting line, holding the reel line tight until 
the line is straight. Then slip the casting line 
off with thumb and forefinger nails. 




116 FISH AND FISHING. 

327. How to attach Flies or Lines.— (Fig. 1.) 

To loosen the knot push the loops back on each other 
first. Another method easy to understand from the 
drawing is shown in Fig. 2. Perhaps the best of all is 





Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 

that of passing the end of the reel line up through the 
leader loop, then bring the end of the reel line back on 
itself and tying a bow knot. When drawn taut it will slip 
down close to the leader loop (Fig. 3) and stay securely 
in place. A jerk on the loose end of the reel line frees it 
at once. 

328. Gut Must Never be Used Dry.— Soak it 
in water until it becomes pliable or it will be fractured. 

329. Stocking Trout Streams.— Trout eggs must 
be deposited and kept in a current of water. A mere 
change of water is not sufficient. The temperature of 
the water should not be above 50^ and not below 85°. 
They will hatch in 45 to 50 days. Put the eggs in shallow 
water on a bed of gravel which is kept clean and bright 
by the current, and as far upstream as possible. Trout 
will thrive in water which never rises above 65° or 70° in 
temperature. 



FISH AND FISHING. 117 

3»*50. A Fish Stringer.— The stringer consists of a 
leather strap, to which are attached wire snaps. It is 
used as follows : The leather loop is passed around a seat 
or otherwise made fast to the boat. The free end of 
the stringer, with the snaps attached, is thrown over- 




board. The wire loops are kept on an extra snap in the 
boat. When a fish is taken the loop hook is passed 
through both (remember both) lips of the fish and the end 
sprung into the keeper. The fi-h is now held by the wire 
loop; the end of the stringer is taken from the water, 



118 FISH AND FISHING. 

the loop-rin^ placed in one of the snaps, and the fish, 
now secured, is placed in the water. Thus one after 
another may be added to the string, each independent of 
the other. When wading, the stringer and wire loops 
may be fastened to the belt, and the free end of the 
stringer allowed to trail in the water. 

331. Hooks.— The Kirby hook is bent to one side at 
the curve (Fig. 1). The Limerick hooks (Fig. 2) are of 
superior temper. The O'Shaughnessy (Fig. 3) is of best 
temper, carefully made, and has a straighter shank with 



y 





Fig. 1. Fig. 3. Fig. 3. Fig. 4. 

less "bulge" at the curve than the Limerick. The Sneck 
hook (Fig. 4) is bent much like the letter \J and is also 
bent to one side at the curve. The Limerick and the 
O'Shaughnessy are most used for fly-tying. 

332. Trout Food. — Suspend a head of a calf or 
sheep over the pond, and when the meat becomes ripe in 
the sun. worms will drop off. 

333. Bleecliiii^- Fish.— Fish bled in the tail bleed 
more freely and die quicker than when bled in the gills. 



Chapter IV. 
Camping and Outing. 

334. Wind Indications. — When objects at a dis- 
tance, usually indistinct, loom out clear and distinct, bad 
weather and changes of wind are coming. Green-colored 
sky means unsettled bad weather with wind. Where- 
ever the wind is at the vernal equinox (March 21 and 
thereabouts) there the wind will prevail for the next 
three months. Crows, before gales, tumble and pitch in 
the air and croak instead of the usual "caiy." Red 
tinged clouds high up at evening are followed by wind. 

335. Fair Weather Indications.— If at night 
there are few stars, and those very bright and sparkling 
in a pale, steely sky. If swallows fly high. If just before 
sunrise the sky is a dull gray and the sun rises clear, 
gradually dispersing the vapors. If, after a rainy day, 
the sunset sky is suffused with a magnificent streak of 
crimson (not copper color). If there is a rainbow at 
night. If there are mists at evening over low-lying 
ground or near a river. If a mist in the morning clears 
off as the sun gets higher. If there is a heavy dew in 
the evening. If, after a rain, drops on twigs fall and the 
branches dry quickly. 

336. Rain Indications.— On a fine day if dust 
suddenly rises in a revolving spiral column. If stars are 
unusually numerous and the Milky Way very clearly de- 
fined, with surrounding sky dark. If there is a misty 



120 CAMPING AND OUTING. 

appearance over the stars. If field sparrows wash vigor- 
ously in a puddle. If the woodpecker (usually a silent 
bird) becomes uneasy and continually cries ''yoo, yoo — 
yoo, yoo, yoo.'' If domestic fowls keep out feeding when 
rain begins to fall it will continue; if they run at once to 
shelter it will be a short shower. If flies are persistently 
troublesome, look out for thunder as well as rain. If 
swallows fly close to the ground. If before sunrise the 
sky is suffused with red (except in frosty weather). If 
the sun late in the day shines through a gray watery 
haze it will rain during the night. If the sun at setting 
has a tinted halo around it. If the moon has a halo 
around it, especially if some distance from it. If there 
is a rainbow in the morning. If small dark clouds float 
below lighter ones, moving faster than the latter. If in 
the morning there are low-hanging, smokelike clouds. If 
there is no dew in the morning. If after a rain drops 
still hang on the twigs instead of imaiediately drying. 
Damp stones indicate rain or heat. 

337. Camp Outfit. — Go light as possible. In camp 
outfit, be governed by your ability to carry it. I have 
made a successful and entirely satisfactory expedition 
with a tin cup and pocket knife. Meat can be broiled on 
a stick. Flour can be transferred into a dough in the 
hollow of a clean piece of bark and baked on a flat stone, 
a chip or a piece of bark, before the fire, but a cup is 
positively needed for the coffee. Under such circum- 
stances the addition of a frying-pan enables one to revel 
in positive luxury. In it you fry your meat, bake your 
bread, and can make your coffee. The tin cup is then 
superfluous. After the necessities add anything you 
want and can carry. In provisions, bread, meat and cof- 
fee are important, though not indispensable. It is more 
comfortable to have them, and unless you are a first-rate 
rustler it is quite essential that you have plenty of some- 
thing.— PF. iV. J5. 



CAMPING AND OUTING. 121 

338. Clothiiig^ for Cajiipiiig.— Felt hat, flannel 
shirt, handkerchiefs, easy shoes, hosiery, overcoats (rub- 
ber and woolen), rubber boots, stout suit of clothes. 

339. Cooking' Utensils for Camping", — Broiler, 

camp stove (not necessary, but handy), can opener, cof- 
fee pot, forks, frying-pan, iron pot, knives, pepper box, 
spoons, tin cup?, tin pails, tin plates, water pail. 

340. Provisions for Camping.— Bacon, butter, 
canned goods, coffee, corn meal, crackers, Dutch cheese, 
eggsi, flour (self-raising), hard tack or pilot bread, lard, 
lemons, mustard, oatmeal, onions, pepper, pickles, pota- 
toes, rice, salt, salt pork, sugar, tea, vinegar. 

341. Miscellaneous Articles for Camping-. — 

Bandages, belt, blacksmiths' pliers, blankets, candles, 
cathartic pills, comb, compass, corkscrew, court plaster, 
fishing tackle, fly repellent, gimlet, guns and equipments, 
hatchet, Jamaica ginger, kerosene oil, knife, lantern, liquor 
(for medicine), map, matches, mirror, mosquito net, nails, 
needles, pins, pipe, postage stamps, rope, salve, saw, 
scissors, soap, tent, thread, tobacco, tooth brush, towels, 
twine, writing materials. 

342. Camp Site.— Select the highest and dryest 
spot, put a good fire on the swamp side, and, if possible, 
let trees intervene. When camping in a tent, dig a 
trench all around it to catch the rain and carry it away 
from camp instead of into the tent. 

343. Camp-Fire. — We first felled a thrifty butter- 
nut tree 10 inches in diameter, cut off three lengths of 
5 feet each, and carried them to camp. These were the 
back logs. Two stout stakes were driven at the back of 
the fire, and the logs, on top of each other, were laid 
firmly against the stakes. The latter were slanted a lit- 
tle back, and the largest log placed at bottom, the small- 
est on top, to prevent tipping forward. A couple of short, 
thick sticks were laid with the ends against the bottom 



122 CAMPING AND OUTING. 

logs by way of fire dogs; a fore stick, 5 feet long and 5 
inches in diameter; a well-built pyramid of bark, knots 
and small logs completed the camp-fire, which sent a 
l)leasant glow of warmth and heat to the furthest corner 
of the shanty. For nightwood we cut a dozen birch and 
ash poles from 4 to 6 inches across, trimmed them to the 
tips, and dragged them to camp. — Nessmuk. 

344. Care of Canip-Fires. — When you break camp 
always extinguish the camp-fire. 

345. Shelter for the Nig-ht. — He is a poor woods- 
man who in a forest of any kind cannot very quickly 
provide himself with shelter from rain or snow. It 
may be of palmetto leave?, of branches of trees or of 
bark from the trunk of a tree. The favoring trunk of a 
tree may keep off the storm, or in a rocky country a 
shelter can often be found under a projecting ledge or in 
a shallow cave. A good thing always to carry along is 
a rubber poncho for each person. It is good to roll 
around the bedding when eii route to protect it from wet 
and dirt; or to put over one's shoulders when traveling 
in rain or wet snow. When night comes, if the ground 
is wet and the heavens dry, spread it under your bed. If 
the reverse, reverse it. With two small stakes at oppo- 
site sides of abed for two, to support two corners of a 
poncho, the other two corners being stretched backward 
and held to the ground by a couple of stones or chunks 
of wood, a very good shelter is provided for your heads 
and shoulders. Then another poncho spread over the 
blankets to your feet, and you two can sleep blissfully 
through any ordinary rainy night. — W. N. B. 

340. Shed Camp.— A water-tight camp may be 
made of fir boughs, or even hemlock, by making the 
roof steep, and lapping the boughs en thick, in courses, 
with the butt up. The form of the framework may be in 
several ways. I will mention only two: First, cut poles 



CAMPING AND OUTING. 133 

with crotch at upper end, 10 or 12 feet long, say six or 
eight of them. Stick the top crotches together, and 
spread the bottoms to any desired diameter — according 
to the size of your party — in a circle; then commence to 
spread on the boughs, beginning at the bottom, and care- 
fully and thickly lapping them to the top, leaving a 
parting between two poles for a door. This is also the 
Indian method, and is called a wigwam. Second, cut 
two poles 7 or 8 feet long, with crotch at top. Stick 
these in the ground, butt down, as far apart as you wish 
the length of your caaip to be; say, for four men, make 
your camp 10 feet long, and more or less according to 
your number. The two corner stakes being fixed , cut a 
pole reaching from one to the other for a ridge pole, then 
cut shorter poles to reach from your ridge pole to the 
ground, and put them near enough together to hold the 
covering, be it boughs or bark. — J. G. Rich. 

34 7 . Camp Lodg'e. — Find two large trees far enough 
apart for the length of your camp, cut notches in each of 
the trees as high as you wish your ridge pole to be, say 7 
feet, more or less. Place your ridge pole in these notches, 
and withe it solid to the trees. Be sure the pole is stout 
enough; then roll up a good heavy log for the back of 
your camp. Split firs or cedar trees in halves to the de- 
sired length, and place them, the lower end on the log at 
the back of camp and upper end on your ridge pole, in 
the following manner: Lay two half logs flat side up, 
and another flat side down, lapping on each, and so on 
over the whole. Stand splits on end to cover end of 
camp. This is the same form as the temporary bough 
camp, and by covering two together, will make a very 
durable, tight camp for winter or summer. If for cold 
weather, throw on plenty of green boughs over the splits, 
to stop all air holes. — J. G. Rich. 

348. Sleeping Out.— When outdoors always sleep 
on the earth for comfort. Make your bed there as com- 



124 CAMPING AND OUTING. 

fortable as time and circumstances will permit. If the 
ground is cold, or wet, or covered with snow, you must 
provide some kind of a foundation. It may be of hay, 
straw, weeds, brush, corn stalks or fence rails, but in any 
event stick to the ground. Don't roost on a perch like a 
chicken and get every breath of air that blows and chills 
you from every side. Balsam fir boughs make the best 
bed of all beds; the tips broken off short and laid shingle 
fashion, bottom side up from head to foot. All the firs, 
hemlock, juniper, cedar and pine may be substituted in 
the order named as to choice. Cherry, willow, alder or 
any such shrubs follow next. If the ground is smooth 
and dry, and it can generally be so found in this western 
country, it is i)lenty good enough. Use only woolen 
blankets for bedding. Under any circumstances, when 
camping, try to so provide yourself as to sleep warm, and 
the nearer you get to the ground the easier that is 
accomplished.— TF. N. B. 

349. Sleeping- Bag-.— Mr. C. S. Farnham, a well 
known canoeist, ha=) devised for camjting in cold weather 
a sleeping bag, or quilt and cover. The quilt, when ex- 
tended, is nearly heart-shaped, being 7 feet long and 7 
feet at the widest part. The small end dors not come 
quite to a point, but an oval end piece is sewn in. The 
quilt is made of silk or silesia, stuffed with 2i pounds of 
down, evenly quilted in, the edges being strengthened 
with a binding of tape. Around the edges are buttons 
and button-holes, by which the quilt may be converted 
into a closed bag, in which a man may sleep warmly in 
the coldest weather. A cover of the same shape is made 
of fine muslin, coated with boiled oil, and being provided 
with button-holes, may be buttoned closely, keeping 
off entirely the dampness of the ground or even rain. The 
entire weight of the quilt is 4^ pounds, and of oiled cover 
2 pounds 6 ounces, and both may be rolled into a very 
small bundle for stowage. The amount of covering may 



CAMPING AND OUTING. 



125 



be regulated to suit the weather, the camper hleeping 
with either oiled cover, quilt, or both over him, or if very 
cold, rolling up in both. 

350. Mosquito-Proof Tent.— The top is formed 
with a light hoop, about 2 feet in diameter, covered with 
muslin like the head of a drum. Two strong pieces of 
tape are sewn from side to side of the hoop, crossing each 
other at right angles, and at the center where they meet is 




attached a thin rope about 10 feet long. To the muslin 
at the rim of the hoop is sewn a quantity of coarse cheese- 
cloth or "tarletan," descending so as to form a bell 6 feet 
in height and 8 feet in diameter at the ground. Around 
the lower edge, at intervals of 2 feet, are small tape loops 
for pegging out wide when two or three people wish to 
sit inside. The whole article weighs only about 2 pounds, 
and can be folded flat so as to go inside a bag when travel- 
ing. When required for use the rope at the top is thrown 
across the branch of a tree and drawn up just enough to 



126 CAMPING AND OUTING. 

let the lower edge of the cheesecloth or " tar letan'' rest on 
the ground. Danger from fire can be avoided by soaking 
the screen in a solution of tungstate of sodium. — J. J. M. 

351. Ctiinp Spring Bed. — Take coarse cloth 6 feet 
or 7 feet square. Sew the edges together. Place two 
logs, 10 or 12 inches in diameter, on the ground 7 or 8 
feet apart. Cut two poles 10 or 12 feet long; pass them 
through the cloth and let them rest on the logs. Cut 
nolches in the logs to keep the poles apart and at a suf- 
ficient distance to keep the cloth stretched to its fullest 
width. Stuff the cloth bag with leaves, grass or browse, 
and you have a soft spring bed. 

352. Head Mosquito Net.— Make some tarletan 
into the shape of a bag, open at both ends, from 15 to 18 
inches long and 2 to 2^ feet in circumference. A piece 
of fine elastic cord is run in the hem at the top to clasp 
the body of the hat, while a similar cord in the hem at 
the bottom secures it around the neck. The hat rim 
keeps it out of the face. If a low-crowned hat is w^orn 
the bag may be closed at the upper end. 

353. Mosquito Gauntlets.— Sew linen cloth cuffs 
to the wrists of a pair of gloves, and run an elastic cord 
in the hem at the top of the cuff to clasp the arm under- 
neath the coat sleeve. 

354. Insect Dope. — Make a preparation of Bounces 
sweet oil and 1 ounce carbolic acid. Let it be thoroughly 
applied upon hands, face, and all exiDOsed parts (carefully 
avoiding the eyes) once every half hour, when the flies 
are troublesome, or for the first two or three days, until 
the skin is filled with it, and after this its application 
will be necessary only occasionally. Another receipt, 
equally as efficacious, is: Six parts sweet oil, 1 part 
creosote, 1 part pennyroyal. 

355. Insect Repellent.— Simmer together over a 
slow fire 3 ounces pine tar, 2 ounces castor oil, 1 ounce 



CAMPING AND OUTING. 127 

pennyroyal oil, and bottle for use. Rub it in thoroughly 
at first, and replenish it on the exposed skin from day to 
day. — Nessmiik. 

liiyii. Mosquito Siiiuclge. — Evaporate a piece of 
gum camphor, one-third the size of an egg, in the tent or 
room by placing it in a tin vessel and holding it over a 
candle or other flame, taking care that it does not take 
fire. 

35 7. Mosquito Smudge. — From the side of a fallen 
cedar log, dry but not rotten, cut strips of bark about 6 
feet long, enough to make a bundle a little larger than 
two hands can span. From the white inner bark of a 
growing cedar tree make long, pliable strips, with wliicli 
bind the dead bark at intervals of 9 inches into a com- 
pact mass. Ignite one end of this and leave it to smudge 
in the tent like a cigar. The smoke is fragrant and 
agreeable. When the mosquitoes are routed let the 
sQiudge remain all night at the tent door and none will 
enter. 

358. Fire for Cooking. — Start it with fine kindling 
and clean, dry hemlock bark. When you have a bright, 
even fire from end to end of the space, keep it up with 
small fagots of the sweetest and most wholesome woods 
in the forest. These are, in the order named, black 
birch, hickory, sugar mai)le, yellow birch and red beech. 
The sticks should be short and not over 2 inches across. 
Split wood is better than round. The outdoor range can 
be made by one man in little more than an hour, and the 
camper-out who once tries it will never wish to see a 
"portable camp stove" again. — Nessmuk. 

359. Camp Cooking Range. — Two logs 6 feet 
long and 8 inches thick are laid parallel, but 7 inches 
apart at one end and only 4 at the other. They are 
bedded firmly and flattened a little on the inside. On the 
upper sides the logs are carefully hewed and leveled 



128 CAMPING AND OUTING. 

until pots, pans and kettles will sit firmly and evenly on 
them. A strong forked stake is driven at each end of the 
space, and a cross-pole, 2 or 3 inches thick, laid on, for 
hanging kettles. The broad end of the space is for frying- 
pans and the potato kettle. The narrow end, for coffee- 
pots and utensils of lesser diameter. From six to eight 
dishes can be cooked at the same time. Soups, stews, 
and beans are to be cooked in closely covered kettles hung 
from the cross-pole, the bottoms of the kettles reaching 
within some 2 inches of the logs. With a moderate fire 
they may be left to simmer for hours without care or 
attention. — Nessmuk. 

360. Camp Stove. — A camp stove is wholly unneces- 
sary, but some people will use them. One kind is made 
with an elliptic base of sheet iron 12 inches high and 14 
long and 7 inches wide. It has no bottom, the fire being 
built on the ground and the stove set over it as soon as 
fairly ignited. In front a 5-inch door allows for feeding 
and draft. The top has a 6-inch hole to receive kettle or 
pan, and a funnel 12 inches high and 3^ inches in diameter 
at the rear conducts off the smoke. An improvement 
upon this is a large sheet-iron cylinder about 10 to 12 
inches in diameter and the same in length, open at both 
ends. Across one end are stretched several stiff wires 
upon which rest the cooking utensils. At the other end, 
which is the bottom when used as a stove, an opening 
about 6x7 inches from the bottom edge is cut to serve as 
a door and draft. At the same end, opposite the door, 
another small opening is cut to give a draft to the other 
side. When not used as a stove it is reversed, the wires 
serving as a bottom enables it to hold all the utensils, 
plates, etc., as a bucket, and a wire handle being fitted to 
the bottom for that purpose. 

361. Oil Stoves. — The best oil stove for use in camp 
is the small, single- wick handy stove with large, heavy 
reservoir and handle for lifting. Three of these are pref- 



CAMPING AND OUTING. 129 

erable to one big, clumsy stove. An oil stove should 
never be used when wood can be obtained. 

302. Foldiug^ Cooking* Rang-e. — A sort of fold- 
ing gridiron is used instead of the camp cooking range 
described above. It is not so serviceable, but quicker to 
set up. The ends are of half round or flat iron 8 inches 
long. Each has four holes drilled in it for the cross bars of 
1^6 inch wire, which are riveted in. The legs are :^ inch 




round iron, 6 inches long, the upper ends being flattened 
down and turned over to fit on wire staples. These 
staples pass through holes in the end pieces of the grid- 
iron, and are riveted fast. When in use the fire is made 
and allowed to burn down to a mass of hot coals, then 
the legs of the gridiron are opened and stuck in the 
ground over it, making a level framework, on which 
coffee pot, pails and pans will rest without danger of 
upsetting. When not in use, the legs are folded down 
and the gridiron stowed in a canvas bag. 

363. Alcohol Stoves. — The flamme force alcohol 
stove is the best. It takes up a little more room than the 
"pocket" variety, and it does not give more heat; but it 
burns for a longer time and is not top-heavy when a 
heavy pot or pan is set on it. Three of these stoves set 
side by side will answer for cooking in large utensils. 

364. Camp Oven. — "Dutch ovens" or bake kettles 
are used for camp baking where there is a large party. 
For a small party an oven can be made of two deep tin 
(sheet-iron is better) basins, one of which has "ears" 



130 CAMPING AND OUTING. 

riveted to its rim, so that when it is placed bottom up on 
the other the ears will spring over the rim of the second 
basin, thus making an oven that is not air-tight, allow- 
ing gases to escape. 

305. Coffee. — Six heaping tablespoonfuls of browned 
and ground coffee in a pot, and 3 pints of cold water. 
Bring it to a boil and then set it aside for 5 minutes, 
when ready to use drip in half a cup of cold water to 
settle it. 

366. Tea. — Bring water to a boil, then put in the tea, 
a teaspoonful for every cup and one "for the pot." Then 
let it simmer, but not boil for 5 minutes. — Seneca. 

367. Fried Salt Pork (or Bacon).— Slice thin, 
put in frying-pan with cold water enough to cover, let it 
come to a boil and boil two or three minutes; then turn 
off the water and fry brown on both sides. — Seneca. 

368. Broiling Small Fish.— Clean them and fasten 
them by the head to a slender, flexible, birch branch. 
Stick the other end of the branch into the ground at an 
angle that wull allow the fish to hang just in front of the 
fire, where it can get the most heat. Put a piece of pork 
on the head, so that the pork fat will run down and baste 
the fish. Turn and watch it carefully that it may be 
cooked evenly. Serve and eat at once. Beefsteak and 
mutton chops may be cooked the same way. Of course, 
the blaze must be clear, and the meat must be at a dis- 
tance to get the most intense heat without any smoke. 

369. Fried Fisli. — Small fish may be fried whole, 
but large ones should be cut up. Have enough pork fat 
or lard bubbling hot in the frying-pan to well cover the 
fish. Smear the fish well with dry corn meal or flour, or 
what is better, dip it into a well beaten egg and then into 
bread or cracker crumbs, and fry both sides to a clear 
brown. Sprinkle lightly with pepper and salt just as it 
is turning brown. — Seneca. 



CAMPING AND OUTING. 131 

370. Planked Fish. — Any "flat" fish may be 
"planked." Cut off head and tail, split open the back, 
but do not cut clear through the belly, leaving the fish so 
that it may be opened wide like a book and tacked on a 
plank or piece of bark. Tack some thin slices of bacon or 
pork to the end of the fish that will be uppermost when 
before the fire. Sharpen one end of the plank and drive 
it into the ground before a bed of hot coals. Catch the 
drippings in a tin cup or large spoon and baste the fish 
continually until it smells so good you can't wait another 
instant to eat it. It is then done. — Seneca. 

»*571. Clam Chowder. — Fry five or six slices of fat 
pork crisp, and chop to pieces. Sprinkle in the bottom 
of pot; lay upon them a stratum of clams, which sprinkle 
with cayenne or black pepper and salt, and scatter bits of 
butter over all. Next, have a layer of chopped onions, 
then one of small crackers split and moistened with warm 
milk. On them pour a little of the fat left after frying 
the pork. Next comes a new layer of pork, then one of 
clams, etc., as before. Proceed until the pot is nearly 
full, when cover with water and stew slowly — the pot 
being closely covered — for three-quarters of an hour. 
Now drain off all the liquor, and then empty the remain- 
ing contents into a tureen. Return the gravy to the pot, 
and thicken with flour or finely rolled crackers; add a 
glass of claret or sherry, a spoonful of catsup, one of 
Worcestershire sauce, and boil up, when pour over the 
chowder. 

372. Stewed Game.— Ducks, rabbits, in fact all 
kinds of game may be stewed. Cut them into small 
pieces after cleaning, and put into a pot containing 
enough cold water to a little more than cover them. A 
minced onion, small pieces of salt pork, vegetables, etc., 
may be added. Season with salt and pepper, cover the 
pot and let it simmer until tlie flesh can be easily pierced 
with a sharp sliver. — Seneca. 



132 CAMPING AND OUTING. 

373. Roasting- Small Game.— Squirrels, birds, 
etc., may be roasted on a stick before a fire of piping hot 
coals. Clean the game, imj)ale it on a stick with a piece 
of fat pork, and set the stick in the ground before the 
coals. Turn frequently and baste with the drippings, 
which should be caught in a cup or large spoon. When 
a sharp sliver will easily go into the breast they are done. 
Pigeons, squirrels, hares or rabbits, ducks and grouse 
should be parboiled before roasting.— Seneca. 

374. Pork and Beans. — Two quarts of beans to 3 
pounds of pork. Pick over the beans at night, wash, and 
soak in cold water until next morning. If only boiled 
pork and beans are desired, drain the beans and put them 
with the pork in the pot, just cover with cold water, set 
over the fire with the cover on the pot and boil slowly 
till the beans are tender, skimming the scum off as it 
rises. If baked beans are wanted, parboil the pork and 
cut it into thin slices, then drain the beans and boil as 
above. Put half of the beans into the bake kettle, then 
the pork, then the rest of the beans, and pour over them 
a half-pint boiling water. Bake until the top is crusted 
brown. — Seneca. 

375. Vegetables. — All vegetables must be carefully 
looked over, the unripe or decayed parts removed, and 
then they must be washed in cold water. When to be 
boiled they should be put in boiling salted water, and if 
the water has to be replenished before the cooking is 
complete, boiling water should always be used. Keep 
the vessel covered, and drain the vegetables as soon as 
done. Do not let the water boil long before the vege- 
tables are put in. Old and strong vegetables sometimes 
require boiling in two or more waters. Always cut the 
largest vegetables, so that all will be of nearly the same 
size and cook evenly. — Seneca. 

376. Time Table for Cooking Vegetables.— 

Potatoes, old, boiled 30 min. ; potatoes, new, baked 45 min. ; 



CAMPING AND OUTING. 138 

potatoes, new, boiled 20niin. ; sweet potatoes boiled, 
45min.; sweet potatoes baked, Ihr.; squash boiled, 25 
min. ; squash baked, 45min.; shell beans boiled, Ihr.; 
green peas boiled, 20 to 40 min.; string beans boiled, 1 to 
2 hrs. ; green corn, 25 min. to 1 hr. ; asparagus, 15 to 30 min. ; 
spinach, 1 to 2 hrs.; tomatoes, fresh, Ihr.; tomatoes, 
canned, 30 min.; cabbage, 45 min. to 2 hrs.; cauliflower, 
1 to 2 hrs. ; dandelions, 2 to 3 hrs. ; beet greens, 1 hr. ; onions, 
1 to 2 hrs. ; beets, 1 to 5 hrs. ; turnips, white, 45 min. to 1 hr. ; 
turnips, yellow, 1^ to 2 hrs. ; parsnips, 1 to 2 hrs. ; carrots, 
1 to 2 hrs. If a piece of lean salt pork is boiled with some 
of the above, they will be suflSciently seasoned. If not, 
season with salt, pepper and butter. — Seneca, 

377. Roast Potatoes.— Scoop out a hole among 
the ashes at the edge of the fire, fill it with coals and 
keep it hot for half an hour. Then clean out the coals, 
put in potatoes and cover them over with hot ashes with 
a brisk fire on top. In 40 minutes try to stick a sliver 
into them. If it goes in easy they are done. 

378. Cornmeal Miisli. — To avoid lumps mix the 
meal first with enough cold water to make a thin batter 
and then pour this batter into the pot of boiling water 
(slightly salted) very gradually, so as not to stop the boil- 
ing process. Stir it in and boil (constantly stirring) until 
it will hang well together when taken out with a spoon. 
When it is cold it is excellent fried in boiling pork fat or 
butter. — Seneca. 

379. Johiinycake. — Make a thick batter by mixing 
warm (not scalding) water or milk with one pint of cor::- 
meal, and mix in with this a small teaspoonful of salt 
and a tablespoonful of melted lard. Grease the bake tins, 
described in hint No. 364, thoroughly with lard or butter, 
set the batter in one, cover over with the other, and bury 
the oven among the hot coals, heaping them around it, 
so as to have an equal heat on all sides. In 30 minutes 
it should be done. — Seneca. 



134 CAMPING AND OUTING. 

380. Slapjacks. — The frying-pan must be perfectly 
clean and smooth inside. Scrape it after each panful id 
cooked and then only occasional greasing will be re- 
quired, which is best done with a clean rag wrapped 
around a piece of butter. The batter should be very thin 
and disturbed as little as possible. When it is cooked 
firm on one side, turn it. Johnnycake batter thinned 
down will make slapjacks, or wheat flour batter prepared 
the same way. 

381. Maryland Biscuit. — Take one quart of flour, 
one tablespoonful of lard, one teaspoonful of salt, enough 
water— or half water and half milk, if you can get it — 
to make a stiff dough. Mix thoroughly, and then be?it 
with an axe or club for half an hour, or until the dough 
becomes light and elastic. Any smooth, thick board, or 
a smooth stump or log, will answer to beat the dough on. 
Then mould the dough with the hands or cut with a tin 
box lid into biscuits ^-inch thick and 2 inches across. 
Puncture the top of each biscuit several times with a fork 
and put them in a Dutch oven and bake with a mode- 
rately hot flre, as any other bread should be baked in 
camp. — Elkridge. 

382. Fisli-eatiDg* Ducks. — These ducks may be 
made palatable by parboiling them in water with an 
onion in it. After parboiling them discard the onion and 
lay the ducks in cold water for half an hour, after which 
they may be roasted, broiled, fried or ^tewe6..—Seneca. 

383. Frozea Fish. — Soak frozen flsh in cold water 
to thaw them before cooking, 

384. Jerked Venison. — Jerked venison is the flesh 
of the deer cut into thin slices and dried, usually with- 
out salt, in the heat of the sun or over a fire. 

385. Baking Powder. — Follow the directions on 
the cans as to quantity. 



CAMPING AND OUTING. 135 

386. Canned Soups.— Always follow implicitly the 
directions for cooking printed on the cans. 

387. Canned Goods.— Don't cook canned goods in 
the original can, and thus avoid lead poisoning. 

388. Butter in Camp. — Put butter in a fruit jar 
with water-tight top, and when in camp put the jar in a 
net, tie a cord to the latter, and sink it to the bottom of a 
cold spring, river or lake. — Seneca. 

389. Rusty Knives. — If knives become rusty, rub 
them with a fresh-cut raw potato dipped in ashes. — 
Seneca. 

390. Cleaning- Cutlery. — To scour knives and 
forks stick them into the earth. 

391. Washing- Dishes. — Pour boiling water into 
the dirtiest dishes and let it stand awhile. Put the other 
dishes into the largest pail, pour hot water over them, 
tone it down with cold water so you can handle them, 
and wash the dishes, the least dirty first, with a sponge, 
using soap. Rinse in cold water, drain and dry with 
a towel. Wring out the sponge in clean water and hang 
it on a bush ready for use again.— Seneca. 

392. Rubber Cement.— Pure India rubber 4 
ounces, powdered asphaltum i ounce. Put in a tin can 
and add six times the amount of benzine. Let it stand 
three or four days, then work it with a stick and add 
benzine, stirring well until it is of the consistency of 
honey. It should always be covered, except when stir- 
ring. To use it scrape the polish from the rubber, then 
apply the cement to both patch and boat or garment. 
Dry one-half hour, then apply another coat and press on 
the patch. Keep it away from the fire, it is explosive. 

393. Rubber Cement. — One-half pound bisulph. 
of carbon, three handfuls of gutta percha; put in a wide- 
Oiouthed bottle; shake frequently; at the end of two 



136 CA3IPING AND OUTING. 

weeks strain through a cloth, return to bottle and cork 
tightly, for reasons that will be obvious. To apply, first 
dry the article, then smear the cement on and allow it to 
evaporate before bringing edges together. After it has 
become light-colored in spots, warm and bring edges per- 
fectly together; stand away for a while and the job is 
complete. — Joseph C. Gruhb. 

394. Mildewed Tents. — To remove mildew white- 
wash the tent with a weak solution of chloride of lime. 
Add salt to make it stick. A strong solution will rot the 
cloth. Two pounds of slacked lime to a barrel of soft 
water is the right proportion. 

395. Waterproofing Tents.— Dissolve i pound 
each of sugar of lead and powdered alum in a bucket of 
rain water, and pour the solution into a large tub. Soak 
your tent for twenty four hours, and then hang it up to 
dry instead of wringing it dry. Rain will hang to it in 
globules, but won't go through the cloth. It will also 
prevent mildew. 

396. Waterproofing- Liinen.— Take a solution of 
sulphate of alumina in ten times its weight of water, and 
a soap bath of the following composition: One part of 
light colored resin and one part of crystallized soda (sal 
soda) and boiled in ten parts of water until dissolved. 
The resin soap is precipitated with half part of table salt, 
and is subsequently dissolved along with one part of white 
curd soap in thirty parts of hot water. It should be put 
in wooden tubs for use. On miide up articles the two 
solutions can be applied with a brush and then rinsed off. 

397. Waterproof for Leather.— Melt together 1 
pound tallow, i ounce neatsfoot oil, 1 ounce resin, jounce 
lampblack and 1 tablespoonful linseed oil. 

398. Waterproof for Boots. — Melt together 6 
ounces mutton suet, 6 ounces beeswax and 4 ounces resin, 
and add 1 pint linseed oil. 



CAMPING AND OUTING. 137 

399. Waterproof for Cordage Fabrics.— Take 

of pulverized potash alum and crushed acetate of lead, 
each 20 parts, bicarbonate of potassium and Glauber's 
salt, each 12 parts, and pour over this mixture 3,000 parts 
of soft water, all by weight. Also dissolve separately in 
an equal quantity of water 9 parts of oleine soaj:), and 
then mix both solutions. The articles are left in this 
solution until thoroughly saturated, allowed to drain, 
dried, brushed, and finally pressed. For linen, leather 
and wood add margarine, 6 parts, and for cotton ori^aper 
some gelatine, 8 parts, and resin, 6 parts. Imin-egnation 
with this preparation, it is claimed, does not injure the 
colors. Alum and sugar of lead alone, or alum and 
caoutchouc, can be used for the same purpose. 

400. Waterproof Bag's.— Make them of un- 
bleached muslin, sewn in a lap seam, with a double row 
of stitches. When sewn they are dipped in water and 
slightly shaken to remove the drops, and then, while wet, 
a mixture of equal parts of boiled oil, raw oil and turpen- 
tine is applied to the outside with a brush. This takes a 
week to become thoroughly dry, and then another coat is 
put on without dampening the cloth, and if a little liquid 
drier is added to the mixture this coat will dry in four or 
five days. They can be made in all sizes, being closed at 
the mouth with a draw-string, and are excellent recep- 
tacles for various articles of food, sugar, coffee, bread, 
etc., and for clothing and blankets. — Tonic. 

401. Handy Tool.— Have a pair of blacksmith's 
pliers 12 to 18 inches long. It is a good poker for the 
fire, a gripper for the handleless frying-pan and hot 
dishes of all kinds, can be used as a hammer, a wrench, 
and for many other purposes. 

402. Compass in the Woods.— Never go into the 
woods without a compass. The story bcoks say moss is 
only found on the north side of trees, and that where 



138 CAMPING AND OUTING. 

moss doesn't grow the north side of a tree trunk is light 
and the south side dark. These indications are not to be 
trusted. 

403. Fire Lighting^ with a Gun.— Take a bit of 
rag, the cloth lining from a hat, coat, etc. Rub powder 
into it well, then load it into your gun or cartridge shell. 
Fire it among dry leaves, and have some small dry sliv- 
ers of wood ready to catch the blaze before it ceases to 
glow. 

404. Stiff Boots.— To prevent wet boots from be- 
coming stiff, rub them with a good dressing of castor oil 
just before they are thoroughly dry. To soften stiff boots, 
soak them in water and treat as above. 

405. Wet Boots. — Never put wet boots near a fire 
to dry; they should be dried slowly. 

406. Footg-ear for the Woods.— Let the boots be 
single soled, single backs and single fronts, except light, 
short foot-linings. Backs of solid •' country kip ;" fronts 
of substantial French calf; heel 1 inch high, with steel 
nails; countered outside; straps narrow, of fine French 
calf put on ''astraddle," and set down to the top of the 
back. The out sole stout Spanish oak, and pegged rather 
than sewed, although either is good. — Nessmuk. 

407. Wading" Shoes.— Shoes for wading are made 
with thick soles studded with round-headed nails, and 
contain small holes to let the wator escape, but not so 
large as to permit mud and pebbles to enter. 

408. Cold Tea. — A bottle of cold tea is much better 
than a bottle of whisky for use in the field. 



Chapter V. 
Dogs. 

409. In the Field.— Do not feed too much before 
starting out for a hunt. Look after your dog's feet after 
a day's hunt. Leave no burrs on over night. Feed at 
night after hunting. Don't allow them to fill themselves 
with water while hunting. 

410. Care of Pups.— Give the mother plenty of 
healthful food and exercise, and as soon as the puppies 
are a few days old remove them from their stall and 
make their bed upon the bare ground until they are 
weaned. Never wash a puppy. It is of no benefit 
to them, except in looks, and it is often a source of 
trouble in that it induces a cold which may bring dis- 
ease and death. Keep them sheltered from cold and 
inclement weather, but at all times give them plenty 
of room on the ground, where they can dig in the 
dirt and get fresh earth to eat when they wish it. 
After weaning, accustom them to a diet of Indian or 
oatmeal, well cooked and mixed with plenty of thick 
sour milk. This is the best possible thing to expel the 
worms that many times infest them. It is also the best 
regulator of the bowels, as by a little care in increasing 
or diminishing the quantity it will always keep them 
just right. Frequently boil meat and use the broth for 
making their mush, and if their condition is not just to 
suit, give them an occasional meal of well-cooked meat, 



140 DOGS, 

and when their teeth begin to trouble them give them 
plenty of large bones, with a little meat on them, and 
never, under any circumstances — for their ordinary ail- 
ments — give them a single dose of medicine, and above 
all else, never worry with thoughts or fears that they 
will not live. — S. T. Hammond. 

411. Feeding' Pups. — Pups should be fed three or 
four times daily up to six or eight weeks old, and then 
but three times. Feed soft light food until second teeth 
are well up, such as mashed potatoes in bread and milk, 
or scraps from the table made soft with milk or gravies 
that are not greasy. All grease, except butter, should be 
avoided, and all vegetables must be finely mashed so that 
dogs can digest them. Old dogs can easily digest bones, 
but not hard pieces of vegetables. Bones should be kept 
from pups, except large ones to gnaw and work at while 
cutting teeth. Feed pup at each time in bulk not over 
two-thirds the size of its head or you will overload its 
stomach and it will not do well. You will find a meal 
e nee or twice a week of good rich buttermilk will be an 
acceptable dish for growing dogs, as it keeps their blood 
pure, bowels loose, and makes their skin clean and hair 
glossy. 

412. Teacliiug Pups to Take to Water.— If 

pups show a disinclination to take to water don't force 
them in. The best plan is to take them to a stream which 
you can wade through; walk through to the other side, 
and they will probably follow you at once; if they do not, 
walk straight away from the opposite side and go out of 
sight; they will come after making a little fuss about it. 
If you have not a suitable shallow stream, but are obliged 
to make use of a deep river for your purpose, get an 
attendant whom they do not know to hold your puppies 
while you go around by a bridge out of their sight, and 
come down opposite to them, and follow the instructions 
I have given above; but remember, many young dogs 



DOGS. 141 

have at first a great fear of getting out of their depth all 
at once, but will freely dabble into a shallow stream; so 
it is best to lead them on by degrees. Once having got 
off their legs, and finding that it is an easy matter to 
swim, there will be no further trouble. Always choose 
warm weather for this teaching. 

413. Worms in Puppies. — Areca nut, santonine, 
turpentine, tin filings and other usual remedies will rid 
the dog of worms, but tend to inflame the urinary organs 
and often leave the dog in a bad state. A better remedy 
is a teaspoonful of powdered charcoal given twice a day 
for three or four days. Charcoal is a pujifier and absorb- 
ent of putrid gases ; it absorbs gases very rapidly. One 
cubic inch of fresh charcoal will absorb nearly 100 inches 
of gaseous ammonia. When given to a dog it absorbs or 
destroys the putrescent gases which are generated in the 
stomach and alimentary canal. These gases help to gen- 
erate the worms, and without them the worm cannot 
live. Charcoal also aces on the digestive organs, increas- 
ing their power as well as healing any unhealthy condition 
of the stomach if existing there. 

414. Care of Cockers.— Cockers get their full 
height at from seven to nine months old, and then begin 
to fill out in body, the head acquiring its permanent 
shape last. The long feathering on the ears, like a man's 
beard, does not reach perfection until maturity, say 
eighteen months old, and if the ears become frozen before 
this age the growth of " feather" will be stunted. Give 
the pup clean and wholesome food, lots of exercise in the 
open air, and a sweet bed of clean pine shavings. These 
points are necessary to obtain a handsome, healthy and 
clean dog. 

415. Training? Cockers.— 1. Teach the usual whis- 
tle and command for come. 2. To know their name. 
3, The beckon to come. Use it together with the whistle 



142 DOGS. 

for come until he comes to it. 4. The short and shrill 
whistle for attention. 5. Find, by motion. Drop pieces 
of food, gradually increasing the distance and always 
use the words, "Find it." Q. Down! or charge! 1. Steady! 
and whoa! With string about his neck walk yourself as 
fast as he leads you. Cry "Steady!" and steady yourself, 
which steadies him. Cry "Whoa!" and halt, which 
stops him. 8. On! or hie on! From the halt, motion 
him on accompanied with the words "On!" or "Hie onl ' 
9. Heel! With string on neck and switch in hand, keep 
him back at heel with the switch, using the word 
"Heel!" at the same time. 10. Take care! Used for 
making him desist while doing any wrong act. 11. Fine 
fellow! and shame! Used as words of encouragement and 
discouragement. 12. Fetch! Using a ball or glove. 13. 
Find! After he fetches articles hide them near by for 
him to find, and motion in the direction it may be. 
14. To Ride in Wagon. Box his ears and scold for 
jumping out, standing up or uneasiness. 15. Get Used to 
Water. Be very careful at first not to frighten him. 16. 
Learn the Report of a Gun. First put a string on pup 
and fasten it to yourself. Commence by firing caps, 
then light charges at a bird thrown into the air. 17. To 
Tree Ruffed Grouse. To teach your pup to be an expert 
treeer of ruffed grouse, take him out late in the after- 
noon (at the opening of the grouse season if possible), 
into thick underbrush where you know the grouse are. 
Let him flush them up into the trees, and it being thick 
underbrush or second growth, they will light close to 
him and attract his attention, when he will bark at them 
(or will very soon). Carefully shoot one or two over him 
and go home. Repeat this lesson quite a few times and 
he gets the impression they must be in a tree before being 
shot. After this is instilled into him, shooting them or 
cock on the wing will not unsteady him. 

416. Giiushyness.— Use very light charges of pow- 
der. If dog flinches from these begin by snapping caps, 



DOGS. 



i4a 



then use lightest powder charges, increasing the charge 
as he becomes accustomed to it. 

417. Chicken-Killing- Habit.— Slap the dog with 
the chicken he has killed a few times and make him 
understand he has done wrong. Then pass the chicken's 
legs each side of the dog's neck and tie the feet together 
so that the chicken hangs under his chin. Leave it on 
him all day. 

418. Kennel and Yard.— For ten to fourteen dogs 
the accompanying cut shows a well arranged kennel. 
The ground should be covered with gravel, and earthen 



B 



A 



I- 



l 



A E 



D E 



i 



nr 



D 



Gate 



c 



Gate 



EXERCISI£ YARD 



/ 



/LjGate ,. 



vessels used to feed and water in. The yards A, B, C, 
and D, are about 2x4 rods each; the rooms each 6x8 



144 DOGS. 

feet, which are neatly roofed and well ventilated. The 
fence is of pickets 2^ inches wide and 7 feet high, 2i 
inches space. 

419. Fumigating Kennels. — Place some sulphur 
in an iron vessel and pour a little alcohol on it. Set fire 
to the alcohol, which will ignite the sulphur. Take out 
your dogs and put the vessel into the kennel. 

420. Feet.— For sore feet: Wash in lukewarm water, 
adding a little salt. Anoint with tar ointment. To pre- 
vent sore feet: Bathe twice daily for a few days in a 
solution of 1 quart whisky, 1 ounce tannin, and piece of 
alum size of a walnut. Old besf brine is also good. 

421. Removing" Dew Claws. — Always remove 
them when the pup is very young, their excision then 
being accomplished with a sharp pair of scissors. First 
divide the skin and draw the dew claw to one side before 
it is detached, in order that the skin may afterward cover 
the wound. 

422. SickNiirsing.— Kennel a sick dog alone, in a 
warm, dry, well ventilated kennel, with a box or basket 
lined with straw to lie in. Change straw daily. Put a 
basin of cold water, changed twice daily, in reach. Re- 
move evacuations daily and sprinkle a disinfectant about. 
Keep the dog quiet and don't exercise, groom or wash 
him. Give medicines regularly at stated times, and 
never a double dose when a single dose has been omitted 
previously. A harsh word to a sick dog may bring on 
fits. See Administering Medicines, Hint 435. 

423. Emetic— Hold up the head, open the mouth 
and drop a small handful of salt down his throat as far 
possible. Then hold his mouth shut until he swallows 
the salt. 

424. Giving Pills to Dogs.— Coat the pills by roll- 
ing in wheat flour. Dip the finger into cod liver oil and 



DOGS, 145 

let the dog lick it off; then roll the pills in the oil and 
drop them into his mouth when he opens it to receive 
the finger. The most disagreeable pills will slip down 
his throat at once. 

425. Adiuinisteriiig- Medicines.— To have their 
proper and desired effects, medicines should be given 
regularly and at stated times, and not, as some persons 
do, to give a double one because they forgot one. I have 
known this to be done repeatedly, and wish to warn 
owners of its fatal consequences. The medicine should 
be given quietly and without disturbing the dog, if possi- 
ble. One person, as a rule, is sufficient to give it, if a 
little tact is manifested. If it be liquid medicine it is 
best given out of a small vial, one which will hold about 
an ounce. In administering medicine the person should 
stand in front of the dog, and with the left hand the 
muzzle of the animal should be held, the head slightly 
elevated, and the teeth kept nearly closed. The bottle 
containing the potion should be held in the right hand, 
and the neck of it placed within the lips on the left side 
of the face, between the teeth and cheek. Then small 
quantities should be poured into the mouth, and on no 
account should a second quantity be given until the first 
has been swallowed. Some dogs are rather obstinate 
in taking medicine, and hold it in the mouth some sec- 
onds before swallowing. Under these circumstances 
many people pinch the throat, with the idea of inducing 
the dog to swallow. This act is dangerous, as it often 
makes the patient cough, and, with the fluid in the 
throat, sometimes choke from drawing it into the wind- 
pipe. All that is necessary, in most cases, is a little 
patience to keep the dog's head elevated, and he will 
soon swallow. In very obstinate cases the end of the 
nose may be pinched, whch soon compels the dog to 
perform the act of deglutition. To give a pill or bolus 
the upper part of the muzzle should be grasped and the 
lips pressed between the teeth. This forces the mouth 



m DOGS. 

open and it remains so, because the dog is afraid of bit- 
ing himself. The head should then be elevated, and the 
piU or bolus dropped into the back of the mouth. The 
mouth must then be immediately closed and held until 
the dog has swallowed. — Dr. A. J. Seivell, in Live Stock 
Journal. 

426. Poisoned Dog-s. — As soon as you know a dog 
has been poisoned, inject about one ounce of hydrate of 
chloral into his back with a hypodermic syringe, the 
quantity to be governed by the size of the dog and 
severity of his symptoms. As long as there is life in 
him do not despair. I have known dogs to be saved by 
this treatment when in the death throes. — Dick. 

437. Mange. — This disease is caused by dirty ken- 
nels, neglect, want of nourishing or improper food. Give 
the dog 1 ounce of salts and rub into the skin every three 
days the following mixture : 1 quart train oil or tanners' oil, 
1 large wineglass spirits turpentine, enough sulphur to 
make the mixture of the consistency of molasses. Scrub 
it well into the skin, and let it remain on a fortnight, 
after which wash with soap and water. 

428. Distemper. — When a pup's permanent tusks 
are about half through, the temporary ones being still 
retained, look out for distemper. It is most common in 
fall or spring. Moisture of the eyes and a short cough 
are the earliest signs. The dog seeks warmth, constantly 
shivers, and if touched trembles violently. The dis- 
charge from the eyes becomes thick and purulent. A 
mucus or yellow fluid moistens the nostrils. If the dog 
is not attended to the disease may seem to disappear in a 
few days, but it generally soon reappears. Eemedies 
vary according to circumstances, and no attempt to pre- 
scribe for the disease is proper here. 

429. Lice. — Comb the dog thoroughly with a fine 
comb, and get off most of them; then wash him with soap 



DOGS. 147 

and water, and before he is dry rub him all over with a 
strong solution of common salt and water, to which a 
little saltpeter has been added, allowing the solution to 
dry on. It may be necessary to repeat this three or four 
times at intervals of about three days. — Biib. 

430. Sawdust in Kennels — Never use sawdust 
in kennels. It becomes attached to the dog's food and is 
injurious to the dog if swallowed. 

431. Breeding-. — Do not breed from a bitch under 
18 months old. Let her mate excel in points in which 
she is deficient. Don't breed brother and sister or parent 
and pup. Hunt the bitch occasionally while in pup, and 
feed well but not too much. Don't weaken the bitch by 
making her raise too many pups. Six or seven is a plenty. 
Give her a warm kennel and let her run loose, free to go 
or come. Pups may be weaned when 6 or 8 weeks old. 

432. Separating- Fig^hting- Dogs.— Choking off, 
douching with water, etc., will sometimes answer, but 
very game dogs will hang on, even under a pump, and 
choking oflP is sometimes somewhat dangerous. A cer- 
tain means is showering something over the dogs that 
will produce sneezing. Be his will ever so good, the 
motion of sneezing involuntarily opens his jaws. Pepper 
answers very well, but snuff is probably the be.-t, as it 
c n be used ad libitum, and will certainly produce the 
effect if enough is used. 

433. Field Trial Rules.— Pointing.- The judges 
will allow only those dogs the maximum that point all 
the birds possible for them to point under existing cii- 
cumstances. A dog to earn the maximum number of 
points under this head must display a first-class nose and 
exhibit great judgment in finding and pointing his birds, 
and make no flushes that a dog with above qualities would 
avoid in ordinary hunting. The dogs are to be hunted 
in all respects as in an ordinary day's shooting. Inex- 



148 DOGS. 

cusable or willful flushes will detract from a dog's score 
under this head, but the character of this flush must be 
always taken into account in estimating the penalty, if 
any. The judges must not ask the handlers if their dogs 
are pointing, but must decide for themselves. They shall 
always consider the nature of the ground, the wind and 
the birds, and not penalize a dog for flushing a bird it 
would be impossible to point. The penalty for flushes to 
be graded by the character of the offense. The judges 
shall not require the handlers to work their dogs down 
wind. Judges are allowed the discretion of declaring 
dogs out of the heat if absent when called. 

434. Pace. — The dog that maintains the fastest gait 
throughout the trial, except when in cover or on game, 
to receive the full number of points, all others to be 
graded by him. 

435. Backing'.— A dog to get maximum for back- 
ing must stop at the sight of another dog pointing, with- 
out being cautioned by his handler. A dog shall not be 
said to refuse to back, unless the dog pointing stands 
upon his feet and is motionless. Should a dog be spoken 
to or cautioned while backing, the judges shall grade his 
score accordingly. Judges shall have power to give dogs 
more than one opportunity to back. 

436. Style.— The judges shall consider the dog's grace 
in ranging and drawing, and attitudes in pointing and 
backing. 

437. Stauiicliuess. — The maximum allowed such 
dogs only as do not advance from their point when they 
are on game, until ordered on. 

438. Ranging". — The maximum only allowed the 
dogs that maintain the most killing range throughout, 
viz. , wide or close, as the necessity of the case may re- 
quire. 



DOGS, 149 

439. Quartering". — The maximum only allowed such 
dogs as work at right angles with the handler, unless the 
ground renders such work impracticable. 

440. Obeclieuce and Disposition.— The maxi- 
mum only allowed to a dog that works promptly to the 
gun, without noise or severity, and is obedient, prompt, 
cheerful and easily handled. A dog to receive credit for 
pace, ranging, quartering, obedience and disposition, must 
earn something under the head of pointing. 

441. Retrieving-.— To receive the maximum under 
this head a dog shall go promptly and cheerfully for the 
bird, and deliver it to the handler without mouthing or 
mutilation. 

443. False Pointing.— The judges shall give a dog 
ample opportunity to discover whether or not he is on 
a true point, and the penalty shall range from 1 to 5 for 
his acts throughout the heat. 

443. Breaking In— Is when a dog, through im- 
perfect breaking or from excitement, leaves his position 
when the birds rise, whether the gun is fired or not, 
and starts to break shot or chase, but stops within a few 
feet of the i)oint from which he started, of his own 
accord or by command. 

444. Breaking Shot— Is when a dog runs in 
when a shot is fired with the intention of getting the 
bird and does not stop promptly at command. 

445. Chasing— Is when a dog follows the birds, 
either when the gun is fired or not, to an extent to be 
beyond the control of the handler for the time being. 



Chapter VI. 
Boating ANr3 Yachting. 

440. CleaDiug- Boats. — To clean a varnished boat, 
rub it with alcohol, using a sponge, or with the decoction 
formed by steeping tea leaves half an hour in a tin pan. 
Strain through a sieve. To clean white paint, take up a 
piece of whiting on a damp piece of old white flannel, 
and rub over the surface lightly. Black paint may be 
refreshed by passing over it lightly with an oiled rag 
almost dry. 

•447. Varnishing- Bright Boats.—The first point 
is to clean the boat, thoroughly scrubbing with hot water 
and soap, until all dirt is removed, then washing with 
clean water. After all repairs have been made, the 
old varnish should be sandpapered or rubbed down until 
it is perfectly smooth, unless the former coats were too 
thick, in which case the boat must be scraped with glass 
or a steel scraper. After sandpapering, the new portions, 
if there are any, should have a coat or two of shellac. 
For varnishing, a spot free from all dust should be selected 
in a dry place and out of the wind. The best varnish for 
boats and outside work is spar composition, of which 
there are several makes. Crockett's and Pratt & Lam- 
bert's are both good. The varnish should be laid on in a 
thin coat, and allowed to harden thoroughly before apply- 
ing a second, if one is needed. It is better to put but one 
coat on an old boat, renewing it when necessary, rather 



BOATING AND YACHTING. 151 

than putting on several thick coats at one time. For new 
work there are several preparations in the market known 
as wood fibres, preservatives, etc., intended to fill the 
gi'ain of the wood before applying the spar composition, 
thus requiring less of the latter, and giving a better sur- 
face. A new varnished surface should never be exposed 
to a hot sun, or it will blister badly. 

448. Removing Paint or Putty.— Take 3 pounds 
quick lime and 1 pound pearl ash and slake in water, 
heating until the mixture is about the consistency of 
paint. Apply with a brush and let stand about twelve 
hours, when paint or putty may be removed by scraping 
gently. 

449. Pot-Leading Boats' Bottoms.— Apply a 

thin coat of linseed oil, dust on the black lead powder 
and rub down smooth. 

450. Bleaching- Sails.— One barrel salt water, 3 
pounds chloride of lime, 2 pounds whiting, 3 pounds soda 
ash, 3 pounds salt. Scrub sails lightly with a broom on 
both sides and dry on the beach. 

451. Boats in Winter. — Always preserve your 
boat from the weather, especially on the sunny side. 
Tack or lash old canvas, burlap or matting around. 
Keep her clear of the mud and wash of the tide, or keel 
will rot away. Sweep snow off her decks. Air below 
during fine days. Stop all leaks that may develop about 
the bits, partners, bolts, etc. , as the wood dries. Haul out 
clear of sheds and shanties, and insure for fire. Comb up 
all lanyards. Stow sails and gear where they will not 
mildew and out of the way of rats, mice and thieves. 

452. Spars in Winter. — Slush down with mixture 
of white lead and tallow and put under cover. 

453. Ropes and Rigging.— A rope is composed of 
threads of hemp and other fibrous material. These 



152 BOATING AND YACHTING. 

threads are called yarns. A number of yarns twisted 
together form a stra7id; three or more strands twisted 
together form a rope. A rope's bight is any part not an 
end. A boat's rigging is made from ropes. Standing 
rigging is that which is stationary, like shrouds, stays, 
etc.; running rigging refers to ropes that run through 
blocks, like halliards and sheets. 

454. Sailors' Knots— Two Halt Hitches.— Pass 

the end of the rope around the standing 
part and bring it up through the bight 
(one half hitch). Take it around again 
for two half hitches. 

455. Bowline Knot.— See Chap, III., Hint No. 323. 

456. Square or Reef Knot. — Take an overhand 
knot around a spar; take an end in each 
hand and cross them on the same side 
on which they came up; pass one end 
round the other and bring it up through 
the bight. If the ends are crossed the 
wrong way it will be a "granny" knot, and will not hold, 

457. Timber Hitch.— Take a turn of the rope 
around a spar, lead the end under and 
over the standing part, and pass two or 
more round turns around its own part: 

pass the first turn over the end part instead of through 
the bight, as in a half hitch. 

458. Sheet Bend.— Pass the end of a rope up 
through the turn of another, round 

both parts of the other and under its 

own part. This does not jam, and is 

the best knot that we know of for 

tying together two ropes of different sizes, or a chair 

to a rope. 

459. Anchor Knot.— Take two turns around the 




BOATING AND YACHTING. 153 

ring with the end of the rope; hitch the end around the 
standing part and through both turns, and then pass the 
end over the second and under the first turn. 

460. Sheep Shank. — Make two long bights in a rope 
vvliich shall overlay one another; take a half hitch over 
e^ch end of the overlaying part with the standing part 
which is next to it. Used to shorten a rope, the main- 
sheet, for instance, temporarily, the whole being cast 
off to full length instantly by a sharp pull on any of the 
bights where they overlay. 

461. Care of Ballast. — To keep ballast clean re- 
move every season, scrub and whitewash with hot lime 
or coat with red lead. Clean and red lead the hold, or 
u?e mixture of two-thirds Stockholm tar and one-third 
3oal tar boiled together. Never stow ballast on the raw 
wood. 

402. Starboard and ^ovt»— Starboard refers to 
anything appertaining to the right-hand side of a boat, 
lb e observer looking toward the bow. Port refers to the 
left-hand side. When the boat is under way and a wind 
is blowing these terms are generally replaced by ivind- 
vjard (the direction from which the wind comes) and lee- 
ward (the direction to which the wind goes). 

463. Parts of a Sail. — Of fore-and-aft sails, such 
as are used on all small sailboats and yachts, the head of 
the sail is that part fastened to the gaff; the foot is 
fifetened to the boom; the leach extends from the end of 
the gaff to the end of the boom furthest removed from 
the mast; the luff extends from gaff end to boom end 
nearest the ma^t, to which it is generally fastened by 
lioops; the cleivs are what a landsman would call the 
"corners" of the sail, and the clew at the luff and foot of 
the sail is sometimes called the tach. The jib has but 
three clews. 



131 BOATING AND YACHTING. 

464. Heaving- the Hand Lead.— Grasp the lead 
line about a fathom from the lead, swing it to and fro 
and then launch it out so that it strikes the water in 
advance of the yacht's course. When the yacht is over 
the spot where the lead has been cast find the depth of 
water by holding the line perpendicular for an instant. 
The best position for casting is on deck forward of the 
shrouds, on the windward side. The ten fathom lead 
line is marked thus: At 1 fathom, a knot; 2, two knots; 
3, three knots; 4, four knots; 5, white rag; 6, six knots; 
7, red rag; 8, blue rag; 9, nothing; 10, piece of leather. 

465. "Eight Bells," etc.— The day at sea begins at 
13 o'clock noon, when eight bells are struck, by sets of 
twos, one, tivo rapidly following each other, then a pause 
of 3 seconds, then one, two again, and so on. Three bells 
would be struck, one, two — one; four bells, one, two — one, 
two. At 12:30 P. M. one bell is struck; at 1 P. M. two 
bells, and one bell more every half hour until 4 P. M. , 
when it is eight bells again. It is then repeated, the next 
eight bells coming at 8 P. M., the next at midnight and 
BO on. 

466. Watches. — The afternoon watch is from eight 
bells (noon) to eight bells (4 P. M.); then follows the first 
dog watch until four bells (6 P. M.); the second dog 
watch until eight bells (8 P. M.); the first night watch 
until eight bells (midnight); the second night watch until 
eight bells (4 A. M.); the morning watch until eight bells 
(8 A. M.), and the forenoon watch until eight bells (noon). 

467. Boxing- the Compass.— Learning to repeat 
the thirty-two points on the mariner's compass by 
memory from right to left and back again, commencing 
at north, and keeping at the same time in the eye the 
position of the points upon the compass card, is a neces- 
sity for all sailors who use a chart or attempt the least 
important problems in sailing. The points, abbreviated, 



BOATING AND YACHTING. 155 

are as follows: N.; N. by E.; N.N.E.; N.E. by N.; N.E.; 
N.E. by E.; E.N.E.; E. by N.; E.; E. by S.; E.S.E.; S.E. 
by E.; S.E.; S.E. by S.; S.S.E.; S. by E.; S.; S. by W.; 
S.S.W.; S.W. by S.; S.W.; S.W. by W.; W.S.W.; W. by 
S.; W.; W. by N.; W.N.W.; N.W. by W.; N.W.; N.W. 
by N.; N.N.W.; N. by W. 

468. "Five Knot Breeze," etc.— The wind is 
said to be a five knot or a seven knot breeze when a full 
rigged ship would be driven at about those rates. It is 
ascertained merely by experience, and is an expression 
in use among sailors. A one to t wo knot breeze is a light 
air with a velocity of 1 to 3^ miles; a two to three knot 
breeze has a velocity of 3^ to 6 miles ; a three to five knot 
wind has a velocity of 6 to 8 miles; five to six knots, 8 to 
10 miles; six to seven knots, 10 to 16 miles; seven to eight 
knots, 16 to 24 miles; eight to ten knots, 24 to 35 miles. 

•469. Velocity of Wind.— A "fresh breeze" blows 
16 miles an hour; a '-single reef" breeze blows 18 miles 
an hour; a "close reef" breeze blows 20 miles an hour; a 
"gale" blows 24 miles an hour; a "fresh gale" blows 30 
miles an hour. 

470. Grouiicliiig'. — If the yacht grounds upon a 
shoal and is left by the tide, get out an anchor at once to 
windward. Then, when the flood begins the yacht will 
not be blown further on the shoal but will soon ride head 
to wind or tide. 

471. Buoys. — In entering a harbor leave black buoys 
to port, red buoys to starboard. 

472. Springing a Leak.— When a yacht springs a 
leak pass a sail over the bows and lead it aft over the 
leak by means of rojDes on both sides of the yacht. Then 
make for the nearest port at once for repairs. 

473. Cement for Stopping Leaks.— The rubber 
cement used for fastening bicycle tires is excellent for 



150 BOATING AND YACHTING. 

stopping leaks in canoes, either joint, cracks or holes; 
quite large holes can be fixed up with it for cracks cr 
joints, with a hot iron or small stone. Melt and rub the 
cement well in, leave a small streak of the cement over 
the crack or joint. For mending a hole take a piece of 
canvas or boot leg large enough to cover the hole, with 
about one inch lap all around. With a hot iron or stone 
smear over the patch with a good coat of rubber cement, 
also smear around the edges of the hole, then heat the 
patch quite hot and press it in place. Then smear over 
the whole with cement, using the hot iron or stone. The 
cement will harden in a short time, when it will re- 
quire no further looking after. This is for emergencies. 
To fix a hole permanently it should be cut out square or 
oblong, with slightly beveling edges; then neatly fit a 
piece of wood to the hole, smear the edges of the piece as 
well as the edges of the hole with rubber cement; have it 
quite warm, then press the piece in place; if well done it 
will neither come out nor leak. — Californian. 

474. Sailing' Rules.— The "rules of the road" on 
the water are important to kno w. A vessel is on the star- 
board tack when the wind blows against her starboard 
side, and she has the right of way over a vessel on the 
port tack except w^hen the latter is sailing close-hauled 
and the former sailing free, in which case the vessel on 
the port tack has the right of way. If two vessels have 
the wind blowing on the same side, the vessel to wind- 
ward shall keep out of the way of the one to leeward. 
If two sailing vessels are meeting end on the helms of 
both shall be put to port, each steering to starboard. A 
steam vessel must get out of the way of a sailing vessel. 
Every vessel overtaking another must keep out of the 
latter's way. 

475. McManus's Sea Anchor.— The drag consists 
of a conical canvas bag with a circular mouth. It is at- 
tached to an iron ring with hinges in the center. To this 



BOATING AND YACHTING. 



157 



ring the bridle is secured, the spans terminating in a large 
eye or thimble to which the hawser or riding cable is 
bent. To strengthen the bag ''roping" is sewn, as shown 
in the sketch, and an eye seized off at the tail end for 




THE DRAG I>' USE. 




r.V.kT>Y FOR STOWINO 

making fast the tripping line. When not in use the iron 
ring is doubled up, the canvas furled snugly by passing 
the buoy line around the whole. In this shape it occupies 
but little space and can be got ready at a moment's 
notice. If you are anxious to lie head to wind, or wish 
to avoid drifting, the ring is opened, cable and trip bent 
on and hove over the bows. The bag fills as soon as a 
strain is brought on the cable and is prevented from sink- 
ing by the cork buoy with just line enough to let the drag 
settle into solid water. To haul aboard, check the cable, 
jerk on the trip and haul in tail first, when the rig will come 
home without trouble. 



158 BOATING AND YACHTING. 

470. Lig^lits on Boats.— All steam vessels must 
carry at night, when under way, a white light at the 
foremast head, a green light on the starboard side and a 
red light on the port side; when towing other vessels a 
steam vessel must carry two white masthead lights verti- 
cally in addition to side lights. Sailing vessels under vvay 
must carry the same side lights as a steam vessel, but no 
white masthead light. All vessels at anchor must show 
a white light not more than 20ft. above the hull. Small 
or open boats must carry a lantern having a green slide 
on one side and a red slide on the other, and on the 
approach of other vessels must show the proper color on 
the side toward which the approaching vessel is coming. 

477. Boarding' a Yaclit.— In coming alongside a 
yacht at anchor all persons who are not guests of the 
captain or specially invited, or of some rank, should come 
to the port gangway. Ladies always come aboard on the 
starboard side. 

478. Canvas Canoe.— The ribs and long strips are 
made of oak | by scant i inch; the ribs are placed 5 inches 
apart, and there are six long strips on each side, and two 
more 8 feet long to fill up the larger sj)ace in the middle. 
Where each strip and rib cross they are clinched together 
with a copper nail. The gunwale strips are -^ square and 
each rib is let into them and nailed with two copper nails. 
Use just 4 yards of 52-inch canvas, and the pieces taken 
off each end make the deck. Bring the canvas over the 
dado in the stem and stern, and put in a spline; then put 
on a keel made of oak outside of the canvas and screw it 
to the center keelson. The cockpit is made of i-inch 
black walnut screwed to the gunwale strips, and has a 
piece i by 1 inch screwed on top on the sides and back, so 
that it leaves i inch projection. In front use a piece i 
inch by 3 inches. The seat is made of two |-inch 
pine pieces, 3 inches wide, screwed to the ribs, and 
the top is rabbeted i by i, and the top is made of 



BOATING AND YACHTING. 159 

3-inch by ^-inch pine strips placed 1 inch apart and 
cleated together. The deck is raised 1 inch in center 
of boat, so that it sheds the water, both sidevvise and end- 
wise. Bring the canvas around the boat and nail it on 
top of gunwale, and the deck the same, and then put a 
neat |-inch half-round molding on top of the tacks, so 
that it makes a neat job. — Far West. 

479. Paint for Canvas Canoes.— One gallon boiled 
linseed oil, 2 pounds of beeswax, 1 quart of benzine. Cut 
the wax in the benzine, add to the oil; heat quite warm, 
and apply as long as the canvas will take it. It adds very 
little to the weight of the canoe, and one coat will last a 
long time. No. 10 duck is better than heavier canvas; 
the mixture will keep it very soft and pliable, and will 
stand some pretty hard knocks. — >S'. D. Kendall. 

480. Waterijroofing- Canvas Boats.— Boil 6 
ounces hard yellow soap in ^ pint of water. Add ^ pound 
patent dryer and 5 pounds boiled linseed oil, and apply 
with a brush. 

481. Building- a Boat in Three Hours.— Take 
some good hogshead hoops; select the best one; and then 
taking two strips of boards fasten them to the keel hoop, 
which has been opened out to form a backbone, bow and 
stern, to keep it upright. Get about thirty good barrel 
hoops and tie them all along with stout tarred twine to 
the keel hoop, and two more hogshead hoops, which are 
tied one end of each to an eud of the keel hoop, and then 
bring the other ends round, tie them to the other end of 
the keel — this makes the side or rail. The ends or tops 
of the barrel hoops are next tied to these rail hoops. This 
produces a skeleton complete. Paste old newspapers to- 
gether and lay them on the skeleton to get a good pattern, 
and cut some heavy twilled bed-ticking to fit and have it 
sewed together. This cover is put on and over the frame, 
painted and dried in the sun. — G. F. W, 



160 



BOATING AND YACHTING. 



482. Mohican Boat Tent.— The Mohican canoe 
or boat tent is made as follows: The top piece is of can- 
vas, 22 inches wide and 6 to 7 feet long. At each end a 
hem is turned in, to take a round stick, three-fourths 
of an inch in diameter and 22 inches long. Tho sides 
and ends of the tent are made of striped awning stuff, 
which comes 29 inches wide, so that three breadths may 




'c^^chUo/W dcv 



be used. The tent is 30 inches wide at bottom, and about 
1 foot longer on bottom tlian on top. The sides and ends 
are sewed together at the corners, but the middle breadth 
on each side is sewed only to the top, making a curtain 
which may be rolled up, as shown. These curtains lap 
over the adjoining sides a little, and are provided with 
tapes to tie them fast. The bottom of the tent is fitted 
with grommets, which hook over small screw heads 
under the beading of the deck. The tent is supported by 
two ropes fastened to the mast. 



Chapter VII. 
Health Hints and Remedies, 



483. Get a Doctor. —The Hints in this chapter are 
designed to indicate such treatment as can be applied to 
relieve a sufferer when in the field or camp until the doc- 
tor comes. Where there is any serious injury or illness, 
get a doctor soon as possible. 

484. Empty Stomach.— Never start out hunting 
or tramping on an empty stomach. Eat something first, 
or at least drink a cup of coffee. 

485. A "Cureall." — A patent medicine known as 
Rad way's Ready Relief is one of the best "curealls" to 
take into the woods or upon a cruise. It takes the place 
of arnica and witch hazel for outward application to 
bruises, burns, cuts, etc. , and taken internally it conquers 
chills and allays fevers. It is a nasty dose to swallow. 

480. Emetic. — Gunpowder dissolved in water, fre- 
quent drafts of warm water, ground mustard and water, 
are all readily obtainable emetics. The last one is the 
surest. Mix a teaspoonf ul of ground mustard in a cup of 
water, give two or three drinks of it and follow up with 
twice the quantity of warm water. 

487. Sunburn. — After having been exposed all day 
to the sun, do not wash the face at night, but wait until 
the next morning. 



162 HEALTH HINTS AND REMEDIES. 

488. Cliai)i>etl Hands.— Bathe in diluted vinegar, 
well rubbed in. 

489. Blistered Feet.— Coat the inside of your socks 
(woolen are best) from ankles downward with common 
yellow bar soap, repeating the application for two or 
three days. Good either as preventive or remedy. 

490. Cold Feet. — To keep the feet warm dust ground 
cayenne pepper in the shoes between the sock and the 
leather. 

491. Diarrhoea. — Mix and drink a tablespoonful of 
wheat flour in a tumbler of cold water. 

493. Bleeding- from the Nose.— Check by apply- 
ing cold water to face and neck, and holding a sponge 
soaked in cold water to the nostrils. Keep the head well 
back and do not blow the nose. 

493. Poisoning- from Poison Ivy.— Bathe in a 
strong lye made from wood ashes, or rub on the dry wood 
ashes alone. 

494. Poisoning- from Poison Ivy.— Take one 
pint bark of black-spotted alder, and one quart water. 
B^il down to one pint. Wash the poisoned part repeat- 
edly. 

495. Poisoning from Poison Sumach.— Apply 

strong salt and water, "as strong as can be made," to the 
affected parts. 

496. Bite of Mad Dog.— Apply a ligature above 
the wound to retard the circulation, then suck the poison 
from the wound with the mouth, being careful that the 
lips are not chapped or cut, and that the matter extracted 
is immediately ejected. If no doctor is about, burn off 
the ragged edges of the wound with a white-hot iron or 
stick of nitrate' of silver. Then put on a warm poultice. 

497. Bee Stings.— Apply salt and water freely. 



HEALTH HINTS AND REMEDIES, 1G3 

498. Saake Bites.— The whole idea of antidotes is 
bad and misleading. Any and every stimulant is an anti- 
dote physiologically to the depressing effect of the snake 
poison. So it will be well to give, say, two tablespoon- 
fuls of whisky or brandy in three times as much water, 
along with twenty-five or thirty drops of aqua ammonice 
or spirits of hartshorn, at such intervals as the depiessic n 
may seem to demand. Clear the bowels by an enema of 
warm water and soap, to which may be added with ad- 
vantage two teaspoonfuls of spirits of turpentine. If the 
patient has been bitten by a copperhead, assure him that 
the bite of that snake scarcely ever, if ever, imperils 
human life, and that he is in no danger. If bitten by a 
rattlesnake, tell him not to be needlessly alarmed; that 
the bite of this snake is seldom dangerous if left to itself, 
still less so if intelligently treated. Many persons bitten 
by snakes die of fright; some are killed by excessive 
medication, especially by fatal quantities of alcohol. 
Some few persons are so very susceptible to the influence 
of the venom, that they die of its effects with or without 
treatment. If we have in the United States a really 
deadly snake, it is the so-called venomous water mocca- 
sin of the Southern States.— ilf. G. Ellzey, M.D. 

499. Unconscious uess from Injury.— Put the 

victim on his back and loosen the clothing. Administer 
hot brandy or whisky and water, a teaspoonful a minute, 
for ten minutes. If he remains unconscious, apply hot 
cloths or a hot stone wrapped in cloth to the feet, armpits 
and pit of the stomach. 

500. Sunstroke. — This results partially from de- 
bility. Its first symptoms are violent pain in the head, 
pain and weight in the pit of the stomach, disordered 
vision and difficulty of breathing. When insensibility 
follows, take the victim to a cool, shady place, put him 
on his back, with his head slightly raised, loosen the 
clothing and douse with cold water upon face and chest 



164 HEALTH HINTS AND REMEDIES. 

until the temperature of the body is lowered and the face 
becomes pale. Then rub thoroughly dry, and give some 
stimulant unless the sufferer is of an apoplectic nature. 

501. Sprains. — Bathe the sprain in hot water from 
15 to 30 minutes, as hot as can be borne. Wrap then 
with flannel soaked with hot water and cover over with 
dry cloths. Then give the part perfect rest. If the ankle 
is sprained, keep the foot in a raised position on a pillow. 
A cloth saturated with arnica and water, or Radway's 
Ready Relief and water, bound around the part, will allay 
pain. In sprains of the wrist or elbows the arm should 
be supported in a sling. Splints have to be used some- 
times for a sprain of the knee. 

502. Dislocations. — Bones thrown out of joint in 
the fingers may be easily pulled into place, but other dis- 
locations had best be put up in splints, the limb being 
always kept straight, until the doctor comes. Elevate 
the injured member to lessen pain from pressure of blood. 
Wet cloths and cold water applications will allay pain. 
To make splints see Hint 515. 

503. Ruptured Muscles.— Straighten the limb 
and support the muscle with bandages. Keep the limb 
still for from one to three weeks for the fibers to reunite. 
If the muscle is moved without bandages being on it will 
be weak ever after. 

504. Cramps. — Endeavor to straighten the limb, 
apply warm water and rub vigorously with the hand. 
If cramped while bathing make a sudden energetic effort 
to extend tlie muscles which are cramped. 

505. Bruises. — Apply cold water, or weak arnica 
and water, or Radway's Ready Relief and water, to allevi- 
ate pain. 

506. Burns. — If your clothes take fire, roll over and 
over as fast as possible on the ground or floor to extin- 



HEALTH HINTS AND REMEDIES. 165 

guish the fire. If your wife's clothes take fire, throw her 
down and wrap your coat or a blanket around her, tuck- 
ing it around the neck to prevent inhalation of flame. 
After smothering the flame douse her with water before 
smoldering embers eat into the flesh. If severely burned, 
cut off the clothing by cuts up and down so it will fall off. 
Don't pull it off, for the skin will come with it. If cloth- 
ing sticks to the flesh in places, let it stick. Tear up your 
liiicn shirt or her calico apron, handkerchief, etc., dip 
the cloths into any kind of oil, and place them upon the 
burned parts. If you have no cloths, anoint with any 
kind of grease, butter, lard, etc., or powder the places 
with flour or starch. Use warm water rather than cold, 
and get a doctor quick. 

507. Scalds. — Drench the victim at once with cold 
water, and then proceed as for burns. 

508. Frost Bite, — Keep out of a warm room, re- 
move clothing carefully, rub the frozen part with snow, 
or with ice water and wet cloths. Keep rubbing until 
circulation is thoroughly restored before warm cloths 
are applied or a warm room is entered. Get a doctor, as 
mortification may follow. 

509. Wounds. — Lessen the bleeding as much di 
possible. Exert pressure immediately over the wounded 
part, and apply cloths soaked in cold water. If in hand 
or arm, hold above the head; if in leg or foot, lie upon the 
back and hold up the leg above the body. If the blood is 
bright red and comes in spurts, an artery is injured, and 
you must check the flow by pressure upon the artery be- 
tween the wound and the heart. Wind cloth (your sus- 
penders, if elastic, are better) tightly around the limb, 
one layer above the other, the bandage pressing the 
artery firmly. Pour on cold water to shrink the bandage. 
If the hemorrhage is severe, put a stick under the band- 
age and twist it tight until the bleeding stops. Let the 
doctor dress the wound when he comes, but meantime 



166 HEALTH HINTS AND REMEDIES, 

cover it with a piece of linen or cotton moistened with 
cold water to protect it from the air. 

510. Wounded Hand.— If a finger, press upon 
both sides above the wound; if the hand, press the artery 
in the wrist where the pulse is usually felt. 

511. Wounded Arm.— Press the inner side of the 
upper arm, or bandage a block of wood under the arm 
very tightly. 

512. Wounded Foot or Leg.— Check bleeding by 
bandage over the large artery on inner side of the thigh. 
Use the tourniquet or stick to twist the bandage tight. 

513. Wounded Head or Face.— Press over the 
artery at the front side and base of the neck just above 
the collar bone. 

514. Wound from Fish Fin.— One spoonful each 
of common salt and gunpowder and the white of an eg^, 
mixed into a paste and applied to the wound; bandage as 
in other wounds. As mixture becomes dry, apply fre-h 
until all poison is extracted. Keep the paste moist by 
covering with damp cloth. — Waukau'tnah. 

515. Broken Limbs. — When a bone is broken, the 
victim will not be able to raise the limb; it will be bent 
or shortened; and if an attempt be made to move it, it 
will bend where it ought not to. Keep the sufferer per- 
fectly quiet and as comfortable as possible. To obtain as 
perfect rest as possible for the limb until the doctor 
comes, fasten it to some support. Splints may be made of 
sticks, laths, stiff cardboard, cigar boxes, etc. To make 
them conform to the shape of the limb, wind them 
thickly with strips of cloth, pieces of blankets, clothing, 
etc. On the splints place a padding of grass, straw or 
cotton wool, to prevent chafing. Cover the pads with 
cloth. Fasten splints to the limb by pieces of cloth, sus- 
penders, handkerchiefs, etc. 



HEALTH HINTS AND REMEDIES. 167 

516. Broken Upper Arm.— Make four splints, 
reaching from shoulder to elbow, pad well, and place one 
in front of the arm, the longest one behind, and one on 
each side. Bandage, and put forearm in a sling. 

517. Broken Forearm.— Use two splints from 
elbow to the finger tips one on the palm side of the hand 
and one on the back of the hand. Put the forearm in a 
sling across the body with palm inward. 

518. Broken Thigh.— Instead of splints, bind both 
legs firmly together. 

519. Broken Le-.— If the tibia is fractured it will 
show by the displacement under the skin at the front of 
the leg. Make a sphnt to reach from knee to bottom of 
foot. If the fibula (the bone concealed by the calf) is 
broken, bandage from the knee down, and the tibia will 
act as a splint. 

520. Broken Colhir Bone.— This fracture is in- 
dicated by an unusual projection on one side, with a 
drooping forward of that shoulder and pain in the region. 
Find a piece of log 2 or 3 inches thick and 6 inches long* 
and wrap cloth around it until you have a pad 4 inches 
thick. Place this under the arm next the fractured bone 
and bind the arm perpendicularly to the side by a band- 
age around the body. 

521. Broken Ribs.— Fracture of one or more ribs 
is indicated by pain in the affected side when taking a 
full breath. Overlap the undercoat as tight as possible 
and pin or tie it tightly around the body. Let the suf- 
ferer lie on the affected side and get a doctor quick. 

522. Restoringr the Apparently Drowned — 
To Remove Water from Lungs and Stomach. 

(Rule I. , Fig. l.)-Instantly place patient face downward, a 
hard roll of cloth being placed beneath the pit of the stom- 
ach, to raise it as much as possible above the level of the 



168 



HEALTH HINTS AND REMEDIES. 



mouth. Put one wrist of the patient under his forehead 
to raise his mouth off the ground. With hands well 
spread upon the patient's back, above the roll of clothing, 
throw upon it your whole weight with a forward motion, 
and keep up the pressure about three seconds, so as to 
force all water from the stomach and lungs out of the 

FiG 1 




mouth, ending the pressure with a push which will help 
to jerk you back to your upright position. Repeat this 
once or twice, and then quickly proceed. 

523. To Make the Patient Breathe.— (Rule II., 
Fig. 2.)— Turn the patient face upward, the same roll 
of clothing being now beneath his back, the shoulders 
slightly drooping over it. Bend head backward and 
downward, putting throat on the stretch to the utmost. 
Place the hands of the patient on top of his head (one 
twist of a handkerchief or string around the crossed 
wxists will keep them there). Rip or strip all clothing 



BEALTH HINTS AND BEMEDIES, 



i6d 



from waist and neck. Now kneel astride the patient's 
hips. Grasp the front part of the chest on both sides of 
the pit of the stomach, your thumbs pointing to patient's 
chin, and your fingers fitting into the grooves between 
the short ribs. Fix your elbows firmly, making them 
one with your sides and hips, and then, firmly pressing 

Fig . 2 




the sides of the patient together, and using your knees as 
a pivot, throw yourself slowly forward for two or three 
seconds until your face almost touches the face of your 
patient, and your whole weight presses upon his chest. 
End this pressure with a short jDUsh which suddenly jerks 
you back again to the upright kneeling position. Rest 
three seconds while the ribs spring back; then repeat this 
bellows-blowing movement as before, gradually increas- 
ing the rate from seven to ten times a minute; but take 
the utmost care, on the occurrence of a natural gasp, not 
to interrupt it; but, as the ribs fall, gently press them 
and deepen the gasp into a longer breath. Continue this 
until the natural breathing, which you are imitating, 
needs no further assistance. If all fails keep on, because 
any moment within an hour's effort you may unex- 
pectedly be rewarded with succesSo Avoid impatient 
vertical pushes; the force must be upward and inward, 



170 HEALTH HINTS AND REMEDIEf^. 

increased gradually from zero to the maximum the age, 
sex, etc., may indicate. If a second person be present 
and can do it, the tongue should be held out of one corner 
of the mouth by the thumb and finger, armed with a 
piece of dry cotton or linen rag (Fig. 2. a). — London 
Lancet. 



Chapter VI IT. 
Flies and Fly Making. 

Prepared for Forest and Stream by the Late Thaddeus Norris. 

524. T«>ols.— If the learner's fingers are delicate and 
he has good use of them, it is better to dispense with some 
of the mechanical appliances used; but for one whose 
digits are clumsy or who lacks a free use of them, I would 
recommend the two simple little instruments drawn to 
one-half the actual size below. The vise, of course, is 




for holding the hook; the smaller tool is a spring plier, or 
as some term it, a pair of pliers, for holding the end of a 
thread or hackle, and conveniently used for wrapping the 
latter on the hook. 

525. Materials.— These of course, in quantity and 
variety, will depend much on the angler's wants as to the 
different flies— few or many— he may wish to produce. 
A country boy will go to his mother's hen roost and get 
all the feathers he wants, and by making a slight raid en 
his sister's work basket for silk and worsted, construct a 
very effective fly, rough and unkempt though it may be 



172 FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 

to look at. I will mention nearly all the materials that I 
use myself and in the order in which they are applied to 
the hook. 

526. Wrai^piiig Silk. — The finer, if strong, the 
better; and although the color should in some degree cor- 
respond to the other material used, this is not of much 
consequence, as it is only seen in the few slight wrappings 
at the head of the fly. 

527. Wax — Do not use "cobbler's" wax, as some 
English writers on this subject call it, but beg or make a 
little expressly for the purpose. Take one ounce of the 
clearest and lightest rosin you can procure, one dram 
of gutta percha, and one teaspoonful of linseed oil — the 
crude, not the boiled — put them in a teacuj) (I use the 
lower part of a discarded tin blacking box), heat them, 
stirring with a little stick the meanwhile, to have them 
thoroughly amalgamated, and then pour the hot com- 
pound into a bowl of cold water. As soon as it has cooled 
sufficiently, work and pull it, much as girls pull "taffy;" 
this makes it light colored and tough. If the gutta percha 
cannot be easily obtained it may be omitted, but it adds 
to the toughness. To make the wax softer for cold 
weather, add a few drops of oil. To make it harder for 
warm weather, add, as you require, a little more rosin. 

528. Hooks. — There is much difference of opinion 
as to their proper shape for flies. The point of the barb 
of the O'Shaughnessy has an outward projection. It is 
what is called a hollow point, and the chances of hooking 
the fish are thereby increased. The point of the Kinsey 
projects inward away from the line of draft, and is there- 
fore less liable to catch than the Sneck bend, the Aber 
deen or the old Kendal. Conroy imports the improved 
Limerick hooks to order, of lighter wire — from No. 6 to 
No. 12 — than those he has for general sale, which I think 
are too stout, and rather clumsy. The Kirby, the hook- 



FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 173 

ing quality of which is superior to all others, if short 
shanked, may be used for palmers and hackles, but for 
winged flies the sideward inclination of the point would 
give the wings of the fly "a list" to one side, and prevent 
its floating on an "even keel." 

529. Out — Should be fine for stretcher and stout for 
drop flies, for the latter using a half length. If the drop- 
pers are intended to be looped to the leader, the loops 
should be tied in each end of the length after soaking the 
gut, the projecting end pulled tight and cut off close, and 
then the length divided into two. Gut dyed a neutral 
tint, between a blue and lead color, is done as follows: 
Throw your hank of gut into a basin of cold water, and 
while it is soaking put into a small vessel — tin will 
answer — a pint and a half of water with 1 dram of ground 
logwood and 6 grains of copperas. After it has com- 
menced boiling let it bubble 10 minutes longer; then, 
dashing the water from the gut, throw it in and press it 
down with a small stick. In 30 seconds or so lift it to see 
the depth of tint, and continue to examine and immerse 
it until it suits your fancy. A light tint I consider pr<^f- 
erable. Some persons think that the dye affects the 
strength of the gut. This is not the case unless there is 
too much copperas; much more than I have prescribed. 

530. Tinsel. — Gold or silver, as it is called, but 
really "Dutch metal," whether round or flat, is kept by 
variety or military stores, or the country reader can ob- 
tain the flat kind from some dealer in Irish linens, as it is 
frequently used, ornamentally, in putting them up. 

531. Dubbing. — The materials, and they are many, 
of which the bodies of flies are wrapped are, first, and 
most important, peacock herl, or "harl," as some persons 
call it — the little plumelets or fibers growing on each side 
of the tail feathers of the peacock. The copper colored, 
for nine flies out of ten, is preferable; the green is used 



174 FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 

for fancy flies. The next is mohair, or the ravelings of 
a fabric called "moreen," or pig's wool, growing on cer- 
tain parts of the animal beneath the bristles, or seal's 
wool, the most brilliant of all — all of which can be dyed 
of many colors; or the fur of a rabbit, squirrel, monkey or 
other animal. Add to these wrapping floss silk, and the 
list, I believe, is complete. 

532. Hackles. — The hackle is intended to represent 
the legs of a winged fly, or without the wings some imag- 
inary caterpillar insect, which trout take for a reality. 
There are saddle and neck hackles. The former are the 
long streamers growing on each side of a cock's rump, the 
latter are plucked from the back of the neck — the closer 
to the head the shorter the hackles and stiffer the fibers. 
Having stouter stems than the saddle hackles, they are 
less apt to break in Avinding on. The older the cock the 
stiffer the fibers; but as old cocks are not always obtain- 
able 1 avail myself of the good terms I am on with several 
poultry dealers to pluck the heads and necks of their 
capons. Natural hackles are more generally used in 
tying trout flies than others. Then there are those the 
fibers of which are red at the stem, or say at the roots, 
and black on the outer edges of the feather, and fre- 
quently black at the stem and red at the outer edges; 
both of which ate called furnace hackles. There are also 
light yellowish red, termed "ginger hackles." Black 
hackles are essential in tying dark flies. Gray are used 
in tying dun colored flies when dun hackles, which are 
very scarce, are not to be had. Add to these the ginger- 
barred and black-barred on a white ground, and we have 
most of the natural or undyed colors. The feathers from 
the wren's tail, from the ruff of the grouse, from the 
partridge and snipe, and the short spotted feathers of the 
guinea fowl are occasionally used, but they are soft of 
fiber and poor substitutes for cock's hackles. 

533. WiDgs. — The feathers of which the wings of 



FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 175 

flies are made are numerous. Those of the mallard, teal, 
redneck, sheldrake, woodduck and other wildfowl cor- 
respond in position to the saddle hackles of the cock, and 
are what ornithologists term *'tail coverts." Few others, 
except the secondary wing feathers of the redneck, can- 
vasback and teal are used. The tail coverts of ducks are 
difficult of manipulation on account of their extreme 
delicacy and lightness. Of all feathers from the wings 
of birds or domestic fowls, the secondary only are good; 
the pinions are worthless. If a man's arms ^ere wings 
the pinions would be found growing from the wrist to 
the tips of the fingers, the secondaries from the elbow to 
the wrist. The great variety of plumage in domestic 
fowls produced by crossing and interbi'eeding has fur- 
nished some invaluable feathers to the fly- maker, espe- 
cially to the beginner; these are in nearly every case the 
secondaries of hens. They are much easier of manipu- 
lation than the tail coverts of wild dacks or the short- 
fibered wing feathers of birds, and in all cases should be 
used instead by the tyro when he can get them near the 
shade or markings of any duck's feathers he may admire. 
The Earl Derby, the dark brahmas, and most of the 
various crossings producing so many shades of brown and 
mixed colors furnish them. White secondaries are used 
for the wings of the moth fly or white miller, as also for 
the coachman. Dun feathers are almost as difiicult to pro- 
cure as dun hackles. Red ibis of course will be seized on, 
as well as the crest, ruff, back and breast feathers of the 
golden pheasant. Turkey, the secondary and tertiary, as 
well as the tail feathers, also come into play; so also do 
some of the wing feathers of the wild goose. English 
bluejay, macaw and parrot, and golden pheasant are 
used almost entirely in tying salmon flies. The guinea 
hen may also be included. 

534. At the Work Table.— When seated at the 
table where you are to tie your flies, have two paper 



176 FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 

boxes, each about 16 inches long, 4 deep, and 5 wide. Or 
removing the top, the sides toward you fall by little mus- 
lin hinges on the table. The boxes are divided by little 
pasteboard uprights, each into five apartments of equai 
width. In the first apartment of the box on the left are 
bits of feather used for the tails of flies, viz., the tail 
coverts of mallard, teal, sheldrake and woodduck; feath- 
ers from the crest, ruff, back and breast of the golden 
pheasant, red ibis, parrot, macaw and a few dyed feath- 
ers. The second, third and fourth apartments are for 
the feathers for wings, and the fifth contains hackles. 
These feathers are neatly folded in slips of paper, and 
placed in large sized envelopes, which have the names 
written at the top of the back. They set edgewise in the 
box, with the inscriptions all facing the same way, so 
that by passing the fingers over them you can easily find 
the feathers you are about to use. The box to the right 
contains, each in its proper apartment:, hooks in little 
boxes, the size marked on top and bottom, hand vise, 
spring pliers, picker, wax, a pair of siiarp scissors 3^ 
inches long with blades 1 inch long awd i inch wide, a 
small flat piece of India rubber for straightening gut, 
wrapping silk of various colors and degrees of fineness, 
floss silk, peacock and ostrich herl, and the different 
kinds of dubbing as enumerated in Hint 531. Such 
methodical arrangement, while not necessary, will pre- 
vent confusion. 

535. Tying a Hackle. — Suppose, first, we tie the 
simplest hackle, say a ginger on a No. 6 hook. If you use 
the vise, fasten the hook between the jaws, then take a 
piece of wrapping silk of the required length, say a foot 
or 14 inches, and rolling a mite of wax as large as a BB 
shot between forefinger and thumb, draw the silk through 
twice. With the hook in the position shown on the an- 
nexed illustration, whether held by the vise or between 
the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, take five or six 



FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 



177 



turns around the shank of the hook, as shown in Fig. 1. 
Then, laying on the gut, commence quite close to the 
head and wrap down to A, Fig. 2. Here, with three 




turns of your wrapping silk, fasten in the floss, A B, and 
laying the wrapping silk along the shank, tuck it in 
between the gut and the head of the hook, and throw a 
few loose coils around the gut to keep it out of the way. 
Now wind on your floss as far as C, Fig. 3, increasing the 
bulk of the body somewhat as you proceed; then throw the 



178 FLIE^ AND FLY MAKING. 

loose coils of wrapping silk free from the gut, and 
take three turns over the floss and clip off the end. You 
next take your ginger hackle, about the length figured, 
and stroking back a few fibers at the point and clipping 
off the end, lay it against the hook and fasten in with 
four or five turns and wrapping up to within a sixteenth 
of an inch or so of the head, throw a few loose coils 
around the gut as before. Now wrap on your hackle 
closely, pressing back the fibers as you go to avoid over- 
lapping them. On getting as near the head of the hook 
as shown in the illustration, fasten the hackle with two 
or three turns, clip off the ends, and throwing the wrap- 
ping into coil DFD, seize it at F and take as many turns 
as will come to the very end of the shank. Now reversing 
the turns, with the gut through the coil, you draw on the 
end D until the wrapping forming the coil is drawn tight. 
Your fly no^v after clipping off the surplus wrapjDing is 
complete, needing only a touch of copal varnish, with a 
small camel's hair brush at the head to make it secure. 
The tying of this simple hackle is the all-important rudi- 
ment of the art. 

536. A Heckle with Tiusel.— Go back to Fig. 2 
and suppose ABdi strip of flat gold tinsel, which you have 
fastened in with three turns of the wrapping and thrown 
the latter in a few loose coils around the gut. Take three 
turns of the tinsel, perhaps four, or even five if the hook 
is large, down the shank closely, so as to hide the hook, 
and then as many turns back, and after fastening with 
two or three turns of the wrapping, cut off the end of the 
tinsel. We will vary the body of this hackle by having 
it of peacock's herl. Take four or five herls between the 
thumb and finger of the left hand and clip them off 
evenly, lay them on where you have just clipped off the 
tinsel, and take two or three turns over the ends which 
project toward the head of the hook. Now, laying your 
wrapping silk along the herls, twist both herls and wrap- 



FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 179 

ping silk slightly, winding in the meanwhile as far up the 
shank of the hook as you intend the body to extend, then 
fastening in the hackle proceed as already described. 

537. Bodies of Other Material.— Fur, mohair, 
pig's wool and seal's wool are spun on in the same way. 
A raveling of any fabric, for instance moreen, may be 
fastened and wound on as floss silk. In making a very 
large body to a fly it is a matter of economy when using 
floss silk, to wrap first with darning cotton, or similar 
material. It matters but little as to the color, as the floss 
covers it. In making a body of mohair, fur, or pig's 
wool, the requisite quantity, after a little pulling, is 
placed in the palm of the left hand and rolled into the 
shape of an oblong cone. The smaller end is then applied 
to the lower end of the body, and twisting or spinning it 
in with the wrapping silk, it is wound up the body, which 
is to be increased in bulk as you near the space intended 
for the hackle. The wild hairs of the dubbing should be 
clipped off, so also should awry fibers of the hackle after 
winding on. The picker (a darning needle, head stuck 
into a small cork, will answer for this little implement), 
when required, is brought into requisition in arranging 
and straightening the irregular fibers after winding on 
the hackle. 

538. Palmer Hackle.— To make a palmer hackle 
proceed as instructed to A, Fig. 2; and after putting 
on the tinsel, if it is required, fasten in the tip end of the 
hackle, then the material of which the body is composed. 
Now jo\i have tinsel, hackle and dubbing tied in, and the 
rule is that the material fastened in last is wound on first, 
so you wind on your dubbing, fa- ten it a little below the 
head of the hook, and then taking three, four or five 
turns of the tinsel in the same direction, you fasten it 
also. Now you wind on your hackle just behind and 
close to the tinsel, and as you get near the head of the 
book disregard the tinsel and take a few close turns of 



180 



FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 



the hackle, fastening it, clipping it off and finishing as 
already directed. In a palmer the fibers of the hackle 
should stand out much thicker at the shoulders and head 
of the fly than along the body. 

539, Makiug- the Wing's. — From the accompany- 
ing cut it will be seen that the fibers incline toward the 
top end of the feather. Now, each of these, on the sides 





M 




where they come in contact, if examined with a micro- 
scope, will be found to contain a regular series of little 



FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 181 

hooks, if I may so call them, forming a connection or in- 
terlocking with a similar series on the adjoining fiber. If 
you cutout a section (Fig. 2), and doubling it form Fig. 3, 
the libers at the outer end of your wing will be of an un- 
equal length and require pinching or clipping off' of the 
ends after it is tied on. You will therefore, holding the 
stem of the feather in your left hand, stroke back the 
fibers gently and gradually, forcing the little hooks to 
lose the original connection with their fellows on the 
adjoining fibers and form others, until you get them to 
stand out at right angles with the stem. After forcing 
as many back as will form your wing, clip them off with 
your scissors and double them with the under side of the 
feather inward, and your one wing, representing a pair 
of wings, is ready to tie on. 

540. Wiugs. — A certain school of fly makers tie on 
the wings, or more properly the wing, last of all, and in 
making an elaborate fly it is the proper way, but in ordi- 
nary trout flies the wing should be put on immediately 
after wraj)ping on the gut. Some old-fashioned makers 
maintain that a pair of wings should be put on, each one 
separately. This is certainly unnecessary, for most of the 
natural flies we observe on the water, if alive, have their 
wings folded together, appearing as one. Especially is 
this the case with the Ephemeridce, which are most 
numerous. 

541. Putting- on the Wings (Eng-Iish Method). 

— If it is the last thing done, holding the smoothly folded 
mass of fibers together between the thumb and forefinger 
of your right hand, lay it on the back of the hook, the 
ends of the fibers extending as far back as you propose to 
have the length of the wing, pressing it down firmly: 
then bring the forefinger a^d thumb of your left hand 
into action, and releasing the h:ld with your right, take 
two or three turns of your wrapping silk; look to see if it 
sets right, and then with one or two more wrappings, 



183 FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 

close and neat, you fasten off with the invisible knot, as 
described in Hint 535, and so your fly is complete. 

542, PuttiDg- on the Wings (the American 
Method). — Holding the hook as already described, take 
four or five turns of the wrapping silk about two-thirds 
of the way up from the bend to the head, then laying on 
the gut, continue wrapping, but closely, leaving just 
enough of the hook to fasten and finish off; lay on the 
wing, the convex edge beneath, and the end in the re- 
verse direction, i. e., outward along the bare gut; then, 
holding the wing firmly in position, take two or three 
turns of the wrapping, being careful that the wing does 
not turn over toward the opposite side of the hook (look 
at it to see that it sets properly); continue down the shank 
with a half dozen or more turns, and then clip off the 
root ends of the fibers, which of course are pointing to- 
ward the l^end of the hook. Your wing is now secure, 
with the point or end reversed. Continue wrapping over 
gut and hook until you come opposite the point of the 
la,tter: then put on your tinsel, clipping off the surplus 
end, then your dubbing, extending it well up toward the 
head, and leaving the space to be occupied by the hackle 
about half as much as that so occupied when tying a fly 
without wings. Here you fasten in the hackle firmly, 
winding it on up to the point where you commenced 
tying on the wing; secure the end of the hackle with 
three turns of your wrapping, clipping off the surplus end, 
then double back the wing into its intended position, 
take two or three turns over the head or butt end, and 
finish off with the invisible knot. 

543. Putting on tlie Wings (Shorter Met hod). 

— A quicker way of putting on the wings is, after stroking 
back the fibers, and bringing them at right angles to the 
stem of the feather, to double them into the shape of the 
wing, and then, with a quick jerk, pluck it by the roots 
from the stem. The wing is then laid on, and the fly pro- 



S'LIES AND FLY MAKING. 183 

ceeded with as just described. The wing should extend 
backward just so far that the tip of it comes immediately 
over the bend of the hook. The fibers of the hackle 
should hardly be long enough to reach the same place, 
and the hackle itself should not be mere than two-thirds 
the length of stem required for a hackle or palmer fiy. 

544. Facts about Wing's.— One would suppose, 
before he tried it, that the wing cut or torn from the 
stem, as described, would be square at the tip end when 
tied on. A trial will i)rove that the end will be oval or 
elliptical, resembling the wings of a natural fly. The 
learner, of course, will find that in tying back the wing, 
if the turns of the wrapping silk are too near the butt 
end of the head, the wing will set too perpendicularly, 
and that if the turns of the wrapping are too far back it 
will set too close to the body. The body in a well pro- 
portioned fly extends rather beyond, opposite the point of 
the hook. If the wing is too long it should be shortened 
by a vigorous pinch of the thumb nail and forefinger. 

545. Wing's with Floss Body.— The mode of 
clipping off the butt ends of the wing close up to the 
head of the fly answers in most cases, for instance for a 
herl, or mohair, or fur body, but when we intend to 
make a floss body, the surplus part of the wing should 
be clipped off in a direction slanting toward the bend 
of the hook; so that in wrapping over it with the floss 
the body will taper, handsomely increasing in bulk as it 
nears the place where you intend to fasten in the hackle. 
In tying flies one becomes appreciative of the minute- 
ness of spaces, and in putting on tinsel, or in the length 
of the body, oi in finishing off at the head as much as 
may be occupied by one or two turns of the finest wrap- 
ping silk is easily judged of. 

546. Tails. — In putting on the tail much nicety is to 
be observed. Of course it is placed precisely on top of 



184 FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 

the hook, and the fibers of fe .thers of which it is com- 
posed should curve upward and set gracefully. If it be 
a plain body, as in the fly called the haie's ear, it is tied 
in on completing the wrapping on of the gut. If tinsel 
ornaments the end of the body, it should be put on first 
and then the tail. If the body is intended to be wrapped 
with tinsel, it should hang locse while putting on the 
tail, and then wound spirally over the dubbing with two, 
three, four or Ave turns, as the case may be. 

547. Fastening- and Wrapping.— Remember that 
the material fastened in last is wrapped on first. Sup- 
pose, for instance, you wish to make a winged fly with a 
palmer body. After the tail is on, tie in the end of the 
hackle, and then— firstly, wrap on the dubbing; secondly, 
the tinsel; thirdly, the hackle, following closely behind 
the turns of the tinsel; and it makes a better looking fly 
to wrap the hackle much more closely on, getting up 
under the wings, making it a little more "buz," as it is 
frequently termed. A fly is said to be buz when the 
hackle is wrapped on tiiick and it looks "bushy." Some 
makers use two or three half hitches in finishing off at the 
head. The invisible knot is as easily tied and much more 
secure. 

548. Salmon Flies.— The cuts of salmon flies given 
here are copied from "The Book of the Salmon," with 
the exception of the second. They are introduced to 
show what are "feelers," and "topping?," and "loops," 
and "collars," "heads and shoulders," "tags," etc. We 
scarcely ever use a more elaborate salmon fly than the 
second for the waters of the Dominion. A salmon fly or 
one of Whitney's flies tied for the Maine waters, the 
"toodlebug," for instance, or one of my own mixed 
wings made for the same waters, unless the river was 
very high, would scare all the Nipissiquit or Cascapediac 
or Restigouche salmon out of a pool. A knowledge of 
the technical names of the minor appurtenances of a 



FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 



185 




186 FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 

salmon fly is not essential to one who plies his 17-foot 
withe, or scarcely to one who makes his own flies for 
American rivers, but to be thorough we must name all 
the little adjuncts and accessories. The third and fourth 
flies depicted are much too large for the rivers of Canada 
at an ordinary stage of water. The third might do ©n 
very high water after it has gone down just enough for 
the flsh to commence noticing the fly. 

549. Parts of the Salinon Fly. — Examine the 
third figure. The tail is what is usually called a 
"topping," i. e., feather from the crest of the golden 
pheasant. The body is wrapped with floss silk, ribbed 
with gold twist, i. e., stout gold thread, which is followed 
by a hackle almost to the head, where, as will be ob- 
served, another feather is tied on, a bluejay, for what is 
termed a "shoulder." There is a mixed wnng of golden 
pheasant neck, teal, guinea hen and light brown turkey, 
with a topping much longer than the tail surmounting 
the wing. The head is of black ostrich herl, w^ound on 
closely, both for ornament and to hide the butt end of 
the wing where it is clipped off. Referring to the fourth 
figure, a "tag" just at the butt of the tail. A tag may be 
of ostrich herl, or pig's or seal's wool, or floss. The 
' ' feelers " — which by a great stretch of imagination are 
supposed to represent the antennae of a natural fly — are 
the two long fibers of macaw tail feather tied in on each 
side of the head and extending back over the wings; and 
another stretch of imagination is to suppose that a natural 
fly carries them thus. 

550o The Nicholson Fly. — The second flgure is a 
very plain fly, the "blue and brown," or Nicholson, 
named after an old salmon fisher, "a broth of a boy," of 
St. Johns, New Brunswick. There are a few turns of flat 
gold tinsel, or gold twist, then a tail of mallard and 
golden pheasant's ruff; the body of reddish brown seal's 
or pig's wool, wrapped with a blue and reddish brown 



FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 18T 

hackle; the wings are of mallard, and, according to Mr. 
Nicholson's style of tying, stand well up. The size of 
the hook gi\en is for high water, when the dubbing and 
hackles are of lighter shades. As the water falls the 
hackles and dubbing should be darker. On low water 
and bright weather dark brown and purplish blue are 
best; the hook decreasing in size as the water falls. In 
fact, trout hooks numbers 3 and 4 (Conroy's O'Shaugh- 
nessy's numbers) are, as a general rule, large enough for 
the rivers of Canada; numbers 1 and 2 are full size for 
high water. 

551. Materials for Plain Salmon Fly.— Take a 
fly with one hackle, say the "fiery brow^n." Lay all the 
materials before you — a short topping for tail, a bit of 
gold twist (3in. or so), fiery brown dubbing of mohair or 
pig's or seal's wool, a hackle of redder shade than the 
dubbing, the wing ready folded, a plumelet of ostrich 
herl, a bit of blue and yellow macaw tail feather, and a 
gut loop. The latter is so cut that when doubled it will 
be long enough to come about where the tail is tied on, 
the ends to be beveled, and, bending it over a coarse 
needle or an awl, an eye should be formed, as is not repre- 
sented in the illustration. The wings of a salmon fly, as 
a general rule, should be double, or Fay two-ply, for mal- 
lard, of which most wings are made, is very light, and 
requires delicate handling. In preparing it, stroke back 
the fibers gently and firmly un'il all their ends are 
square, clip off with your scissors, and lay it on the 
table; prepare another in the same way, and lay it on top 
of the first, placing it where it is not apt to be disturbed. 

552. Tying- the Fly.— Use the small vise. Firstly, 
secure the hook well between its jaws; secondly, wax 
your silk, and commencing near the bend, wrap up to the 
head with a dozen or so turns; thirdly, laying on the gut 
loop warp down opposite the bend, perhaps a few turns 
below; fourthly, lay on the gold twist, secure the end, and 



188 FLIES AND FLY MAKING. 

winding it three or four turns back, opposite the point of 
the hook, fasten it, allowing the surplus to stand out- 
ward toward the head; fifthly, put on the topping for 
tail so that it curves handsomely upward and secure it 
with two turns of the wrapping silk; sixthly, fasten in 
the tip end of the hackle, the back uppermost; seventhly, 
having pulled and picked your dubbing and rolled it in 
the palm of your hand into a conical shape (very little is 
required), twist in the small end with your wrapping silk, 
and spinning both silk and dubbing almost up to the head, 
fasten with a half hitch; eighthly, twirling your vise, 
follow with four turns of the gold twist, fasten, and then 
follow close behind with the hackle, the under side next 
to the dubbing. You are now ready to put on the wing. 
There are two ways — one i?, after doubling it to tie it on as 
described; another is, not to double but to lay it flat on the 
top of the hook with the forefinger and thumb of the right 
and compress it with the corresponding fingers of the left 
hand; bending the two edges of the wing so that an equal 
proportion will enfold the hook on both sides. Now with 
your wrapping silk take two turns; look to see that the 
wing is put on evenly and sets properly, and taking a 
half dozen more turns make it secure with a half hitch. 
Putting on the feelers to have them set uniformly is a 
nice job. The pair should be taken from opposite sides of 
the blue and yellow macaw tail feather; that on the far 
side to be fastened in with two turns of the wrapping, 
then that on the near side. In making the head, observe 
that the black ostrich herl has a convex and concave eide, 
and is to be wrapped on very closely with the convex 
side outward toward the eye of the loop. Clip off the sur- 
plus butt end of the herl and fasten with the invisible 
knot. With a small sharp stick dipped into copal, var- 
nish the last wrapping of the silk, being careful not to let 
it touch the herl. When mallard is scarce the under ply 
of the wing may be of turkey, making it more solid than 
if it was all mallard. As a rule salmon flies are wrapped, 



FLIES AND FLY MAKING, 189 

palmer fashion, that is, the hackle over the whole length 
of the body. The bodies, as will be observed, are very- 
slender in proportion to the size of the fly. 

553. The Scissors in Fly-Making.— Do not put 

your finger and thumb into the bows or oval openings, 
but lay that part of the implement in the palm of your 
hand and with the thumb and fingers work the blades. 
A little practice in this way will enable one to pick out 
and clip off a single fiber of the hackle or wing with great 
nicety. 



Chapter IX. 
Miscellaneous. 



554. Tight Shells.— If cartridges become swollen 
with dampness and fit too tight, sprinkle them with 
powdered soapstone. 

555. Grun Cleaner for the Field.— To the end of 

a cord a little longer than the gun barrel tie a small lead 
sinker; to the other end tie a banch of cloth that will 
fill the barrel tightly. Drop the leaded end through the 
ban*el and pull the cloth after it. 

556. Loads for Game.— The U. M. C. club shells 
are loaded as follows. 

lO-Gauge. 12-Gauge. 

Adapted to , « > 

Shooting Powder Shot Size 



firs. 

Woodcock 3% 

Woodcock 4 

Snipe 4 

Quail 4 

Quail and prairie chicken.4i4 

Prairie chicken 414 

Bluerock, Ligowsky, etc. .4 

Live pigeons, etc 4.}4 

Uuflfed grouse, teal, etc.. AH 

Pintail and bluebill 414 

Mallard 4J^ 

Rea head i}4 

Canvasback 4^ 

Turkey... 5 

Goose and brant 5 



oz. 
1 

in 

m 
m 
m 
m 

ii 



shot. 

.10 

10 

9 

8 
8 



3 
BB 



Powder Shot 
drs. oz. 



m 

3W 

i 



557. Shot. — American standard sizes: F: 



ne dust, 
jhj inch; 
No. 11, -^^ inch; No. 10, jla inch; No. 9, ySu inch; No. 8, 



}i 



H 



Size 

shot. 

10 

10 

9 

8 

8 

8 

8 

8 

7 

6 

5 

4 

3 

2 
BB 



MISCELLANEO US. 



191 



ygo inch; No. 7, -,'uo inch; No. 6, iVo inch; No. 5, -^^inch; 
No. 4, A^inch; No. 3, -,^,\- inch; No. 2, -AAr; No. 1, Aft,- 
inch; No. B, r„\- inch; No. BB, lAfj inch; No. BBB, A)% 
inch. 

558. Wood Powder Cartridges contain the fol- 
lowing proportions of powder and shot: 



Gauge. 



Quantity of Powder, 
drams. 



B14 

m to 4, 

4 10 41^, 



Primed. 



0i to 5, 

4^ 



Extra Strength. 



Quantity and Size of Shot. 



ji^tolH 



oz.No.7 7 Trap & 8 Shot 



No. 7 7 
No. 7 7 
No. 7 7 
No. 7 7 
No. 7 7 



8 



559. Reamed Cartridge. — After the paper shell 
is loaded the end should be cut off evenly about half an 
inch above the wad. The shell should be turned down 




smoothly and firmly on to the wad, as shown in the 
cut. Tools for this purpose are supplied by gun dealers. 

560. Indented Cartridg-e.— This shell should not 
be cut down. The paper shell is cut out and turned over 
on to the wad, as shown in the cut. 




192 



MISCELLANEO US. 



561. Creased Cartridg-e.—This shell should not be 
cut off at the end. The creasing is made just above and 




pressing on to the wad. 
the creased cartridge. 



The cut shows the machine and 



562. Crimping Shells.— A simple way to crimp 
shells, and one which has worked well, is to simply press 




down two opposite sides of the shell (with the back of a 
pocketknife) upon the charge, leaving the shell with two 
projecting points, as in the cut. 

563. Creedmoor Targets are divided into three 
classes, and are of the following sizes: 1. Third Class, 
to be used at all distances up to and including 300 yards, 
target 4x6 feet; buUseye, circular, 8 inches in diameter; 
center, circular, 26 inches in diameter; inner, circiilar, 46 
inches in diameter; outer, remainder of target. 2. Second 
Class, to be used at all distances over 300, to and including 
600 yarde, target 6x6 feet; buUseye, circular, 22 inches in 
diameter: center, circular, 38 inches in diameter* inner, 



MISCELLANEOUS. 198 

circular, 54 inches in diameter; outer, remainder of target. 
3. First Class, to be used at all distances over 600 yards; 
target 6x13 feet; bullseye, circular, 36 inches in diameter; 
center, circular, 54 inches in diameter; inner, square, 6x6 
feet; outer, remainder of target. Bullseye counts 5, cen- 
ter 4, inner 3, outer 2. Standard American Target is 
divided into circles, the innermost one of 3.36 inches 
diameter (counting 10), the next one 5.54 inches (count- 
ing 9), 8-inch circle (counting 8), 11-inch circle (counting 
7), 14.80-inch circle (counting 6), 19.68-inch circle (count- 
ing 5), 26-inch circle (counting 4), 46-inch circle (count- 
ing 3), and remainder of target, 4x6 feet, counts 2. 

564. Rifle Cartridges are described by the caliber, 
the powder charge and the weight of the bullet; thus, 
.32-40-185, which means a .32-caliber shell loaded with 
40 grains of powder and a bullet weighing 185 grains. 

565. Long-Range Rifle Positions. — The natural 
position at long-range, where it is desired to get the very 
steadiest hold on the rifle, is that shown in Fig. 1. It is 




Fig. 1. 

the old deer-stalker's position and is assumed by every 
marksman when he first drops for a shot from the 
ground. It was the position taken by all the long-range 
small-bore experts when this class of work first opened 
at Creedmoor and Wimbledon. It was soon found, how- 
ever, that the long overhang of the barrel made steady 
holding difficult, and there was a searching about for a 
manner of holding which would come within the rule 
of any position without artificial rest and yet give the 
shooter a steadier control of his weapon. Yale and Fowle 



194 



MISCELLANEO US. 



of the old time Creedmoor shots, Milner of the Irish 
team when that body came over, each had very easy rests. 




Fig. 2. 



The Farquharson position of Wimbledon was introduced 
in this country by Major Fulton and is shown in Fig. 5. 




Fig. 3. 



Blydenburgh had a position in which the recoil of the 
gun was taken up by the hands, as shown in Fig. 4. 




Fig. 4. 
W. Burnham of Chicago had a peculiar twist illustrated 



MISCELLANEOUS. m 

in Fig. 3. There were dozens of various twistings of 
the human body and some were very acrobatic. Each 




Fig. 5. 



shooter found that he could get the easiest and steadiest 
grip on his rifle by taking a certain position. With the 
rear sight set on the heel of the butt a long line of sight 
was made possible, and this arrangement could be secured 




Fig. 6. 



in several of the positions assumed. With military rifles 
the sling came in as a factor in taking up a position. 
Thrown over the knee or with the foot in the loop the re- 
coil was taken up by the legs and the body left clean of 




Fig. 7. 



shock, while a long sight could be taken without keeping 
the body in a constrained position and without having 



196 MISCELLANEOUS. 

the heaving of the chest in breathing throw the sights out 
of line with the target. In long-range position, what was 
very convenient for one was the very reverse for another. 

566. Tubular Bullet.— A Mr. A. Weed recently 
sent to the Forest and Stream, one of his bolt bullets in 
which he leaves an opening down the entire length. He 
has made them of several calibers, .38, .40 and .45, and 
in each case the work has been of the best sort. The 
front of the bullet is cut square off, and the forward end 
slightly countersunk; an opening of about one-third the 
diameter is then carried down the center of the bolt, 
leaving a heavy tube of about the same weight as the 
ordinary bullet. When fired it is found to fly with a 
very low trajectory, and when hitting any hard sub- 
stances, as a plank, the hole is cut clean and neat in 
outline, but when fired into a log, and the log is split for 
examination, the superior destructive powers of the new 
bullet are at once shown. 

567. Split Bullet. — A form of bullet to secure 
smashing effect is shown in the accompanying cut. The 





head of the bullet is split down, as illustrated, and the 
cuts are filled with tallow or wax. 

568. Dog's Temperature. — The dog's normal 
temperature is 99.4* Fahrenheit. The temperature is 
ascertained by holding a clinical thermometer between 
the fore shoulder and the trunk (aocilla). 

569. Exercise for Dogs on Chain.— Run a wire 
from stake to stake and as long as the yard will allow; 
attach the dog's chain to the wire by a sliding ring, so 
he can run back and forth from one end to the other. 



MISCELLANEO US. 



197 



570. To Kill a Dog^ Humanely.— If it is neces- 
sary to kill a dog by shooting, the ball should be delivered 




at the point and in the direction shown by the dotted line 
in the accompanying diagram. 

571. To Kill a Horse Humanely.— A horse may 




be killed by shooting, in tho most expeditious and merciful 
manner by striking the spot shown in the cut herewith. 



198 MISCELLANEOUS. 

572. Gun-Shyness. — While our pup is still young 
he should be taught to love the sound of a gun. This 
can be easily accomplished if the proper course is pur- 
sued. In the first place we take a couple of old tin pans, 
and while his attention is attracted by something that 
interests him we strike them together, lightly at first; and 
if he appears to be afraid we are very careful not to add 
to his fright by a repetition of the noise anywhere near 
him, but take the pans quite a distance from his pen and 
leave them, and wait awhile before trying again. Wheia 
it is time to feed him we go to the pans, and while sound- 
ing our whistle, as before described, to let him know that 
we are coming, we give a stroke just loud enough for 
him to hear plainly, and at once proceed to his p^n and 
give him his feed. By j)ursuing this course for a few 
days, and gradually going a little closer every time, he 
will become accustomed to the sound, and' learning that 
the noise is connected with our coming, and also his din- 
ner; he soon gets used to it, and in a short time will stand 
the racket without flinching. When he has become so 
accustomed to the noise that he shows no signs of fear at 
quite a loud crash it is time to try him with the gun. In 
order to do this understandingly you will require an assist- 
ant. Let him take the gun loaded with a light charge of 
powder and at some little distance — say forty or fifty 
yards away — and be ready at your signal to fire. You 
will now enter his pen, and after he gets a little quiet 
call him to you and put a piece of meat before him and 
bid him To/io, at the same time raising your hand as 
a signal for the gun. Carefully watch him, and should 
he display any sign of fear the experiment must be re- 
peated as with the pans. There is no need of your pres- 
ence only to notice how he behaves, and you can disj)ens« 
with your assistant, unless, as will probably be the case, 
he does not mind the report, w^hen the gun can be brought 
nearer, and you can make another trial. Great care must 
be taken not to frighten him with too loud a discharge, 



MISCELLANEOUS. 199 

nor should it be too close to him, until he gets used to it. 
By paying close attention to him when under fire, you 
can readily tell how far it will do to go, and by properly 
conducting your experiment you can soon teach him to 
love the sound of the gun, even when fired over his head; 
indeed, we have cured in this way some of the worst 
cases of gun-shyness that we ever saw. Comparatively 
few dogs are gun-shy, and it is with these only that 
those precautions are necessary. After your pup has 
been carefully accustomed to the noise, do not lay your 
rrun aside as soon as you have accomplished your object, 
but let him hear the sound occasionally until his educa- 
tion is complete, taking good care that the discharge of 
the gun is at once followed by something pleasing to him 
— his dinner, for instance— or let it be a prelude to giving 
him his liberty, thus giving him to understand that the 
noise means something, and soon the noise, or even the 
sight of the gun, will cause him pleasurable emotions 
that he will never forget. — Hammond's ''Training vs. 
Breaking.'' 

573. Otter Trapping.— A narrow-necked peninsula 
in the bend of a creek or river is almost certain to be 
crossed by the narrow path of the otter, and a point of 
land extending out into a lake is a favorite romping 
place. Where the slide of the otter terminates at the 
edge of the water is the safest place for the new beginner 
to set his trap, i^rovided that the slide shows that the ani- 
mal always enters or leaves the water at the same place. 
If the water is shallow at the bank of the lake or stream, 
the trail often spreads out on approaching the water, 
showing that the otter enters the water at any one of half 
a dozen places. Such a spot is to be avoided. 

574. Water Set.— Get a Newhouse trap, No. 3 in 
size, go to the spot, either in a b^at or by wading along 
in the edge of the water from a point on shore three or 
four rods distant from the otter's trail, having the trap 



200 MISCELLANEOUS. 

opened ready for setting, and a strong stake well sharp- 
ened inserted in the ring of the trap chain. Now we are 
ready to set the trap without making any disturbance 
above water. Arrived at the spot, select the point where 
it appears that the otter will step when next he comes 
that way, and in water about G inches deep, smooth the 
bottom to make a good place for the trap; place the trap 
so that the jaws will spread out on each side of the otter's 
line of approach, extend the chain full length up or down 
the stream, and, with a hatchet brought for the purpose, 
drive the stake firmly into the bottom, with the top of the 
stake driven below the surface of the water. Then if 
the top of the stake is bright in color like green timber, 
gather some mud from the bottom and smear over it. 
Now gently sift some mud in the water above the trap, 
until a very thin coat of soft mud hides any brightness 
of the trap from view. Wade back to where the stream 
was first entered, having been careful not to touch the 
bank, and the trap is set in the manner known as the 
"water set." Another good water set may sometimes be 
obtained in the center of the channel of a narrow stream, 
on shallow rapids. Two things must be carefully noted 
here. First, that the otter does not travel on the shore at 
this point, and, secondly, that a point be selected for the 
trap where the channel is narrow and the water shallow. 

575. Land Set. — This is much more difficult, yet 

if done properly is much the better set of the two. At 
some certain point on the otter's line of travel on the 
land, and commonly near the top of a bank down which 
he has a regular slide, is a spot selected by this strange 
animal for voiding excrement. He will travel for long 
distances to reach this spot rather than do so at any other 
place. Sometimes it is deposited all in one heap, and 
sometimes scattered over a space a rod or so in diameter. 
If it is not in one pile, the trapper, making as few steps 
as possible, must gather the dried accumr.lations and 



MISCELLANEOUS. SOl 

deposit them on the greatest heap already formed, anJ 
having a perfectly clean trap ready (some trappers prefer 
having the trap well-smoked with the smoke of dried 
grass), together with the stake for fastening, proceed to 
dig a hole in the ground with the blade of the hatchet, in 
front of the heap of excrement, and about a foot distant 
from the edge of it, on the side next to the otter's trail, 
using the fingers as little as possible to avoid leaving 
scent. Dig just deep and wide enough to hold the trap, 
and use all possible skill in covering the trap, to have 
just as little matter covering it as may be and have it 
well hidden, in order that the trap jaws be not hindered 
from gripping firmly when sprung, and to leave the 
general appearance of the ground the same as before the 
trap was set. Be careful also to set the trap so that the 
jaws lie open on each side of the otter's line of approach. 
Now drive the stake below the surface of the ground and 
cover it and the chain carefully. The job is now com- 
plete, and the trapper — who of course will have been 
careful not to blow his nose or spit tobacco juice near the 
trap— walking carefully away, and on afterward coming 
to visit it once in two or three days will only approach 
near enough to see that the trap is all right, stands a very 
good chance to make the acquaintance of the sleek brown 
creature with the much coveted overcoat, provided his 
work has been well done. — '^ Uncle Fuller'" in Forest and 
Stream. 

676. Crawfish for Bait.— To preserve crawfish 
for bait in large numbers, pack in wet sawdust and ealt, 
or brine. Scalding will discolor them. A little saltpetre 
added to the salt will improve the pickle. 

577. Trout Temperature.— Water for trout 
should not be above a temperature of 70°, tested by a 
thermometer at the bottom. 



MISCELLANEO US. 



578. Parts of Fish.— Whitefish {Coregonus alhula): 
1, mandible; 3, maxilla; 3, supplemental maxillary bone; 




4, pre- operculum; 5, inter-operculum; 6. operculum; 7, 
sub-operculum ; 8, pectoral: 9, lateral line; 10, ventral 
appendage; 11, ventral; 12, vent; 13. anal; 14, caudal; 
15, dorsal; 16, adipose dorsal. 

571). Parts of Fish. — Black bass (Mieropterus sal- 
moides): — 1, mandible; 2, inter-maxilla; 3, maxilla; 4, 




IZ 13 
5 fi 10 

pre-operculum; 5, inter-operculum; G, operculum; 7, sub- 
operculum; 8, ventral; 9, pectoral; 10, lateral line; 11, 
vent, 12, pre-anal spines; 13, anal; 14, spinous dorsal; 
15, soft dorsal; 16, caudal. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 203 

580. Viscera of Black Bass.— 1, air bladder; 2, 




4 5 6 

gill-rakers; 3, heart; 4, liver; 5, pyloric coeca; 6, stomach; 
7, spleen; 8, spermary; 9, intestine. 

581, Black Bass, liarge-iuoutli aud Small- 
Movith. — The large-mouth {Micropterus salniokles) is 
distinguished from the small-mouth (M. dolomieii thus: 
In the large-mouth the upper jaw or maxilla (see 579) 
extends far behind the eye; in the small-mouth the max- 
illa extends to a point below the eye. The large-mouth 
has from sixty-five to seventy rows of scales between the 
gill-openings and the base of the tail; the small-mouth 
seventy-two or more; the large-mouth about ten oblique 
row^s on the cheek, the smali-mouth seventeen; in the 
large-mouth are seven and a half to eight rows between 
the lateral line and the dorsal, in the small-mouth eleven. 

582. Smelt Fishing'.— Smelts are fished for with 
the lightest of tackle, say with Nos. 10, 9, 8 or 7 Limerick, 
or 20, 19 or 18 Kinsey hooks, of which three or four 
should be used at short distances apart on the leader. 
Such tackle as would be used for perch fishing, only with 
more hooks. Clam make good bait, or a piece of liver. 



204 MISCELLANEOUS. 

683. Minnow Life Preserver. — An ingenious 
contrivanc3 for aerating the minnow bucket consists of a 
rubber tube with a bulb. The end of the tube is insei ed 




in the water and the pressure of the Lulb forces in the 
air, which means Ufe to the bait, and removes the neces- 
sity of frequently changing the water. 

584. Flies Jiiid Insects.— Do not throw dishwater 
nor garbage near the tent; they will attract flies, ants 
and other insects. 

585. Cold Tea or Cold Water can be kept cold 
by wrapping the jug or bottle in flannel kept wet with 
water and exposing to sun and wind to promote evapor- 
ation. 

580. Camp Cooking-. — Stale bread or crackers 
fried in butter or pork grease make a good dish. Cut 
up cold potatoes, put into the pan with milk or butter, 
add a little water and warm through. 

.587. Keeping- Game. — After drawing feathered 
game hang it up by the head. Meat may be kept fresh 
for some days in the hottest weather by immersing in a 
jar of water and covering the surface with oil, or melted 
butter or pork fat. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 205 

588. Game in Camp. — The best thing to do with 
meat when flics are troublesome is to raise it on a pole as 
high above the ground as may be convenient. On the 
top of a pole from 25 to 30 feet in height flies will seldom 
find meat, and it is practically secure from their attacks. 

589. Game Should Not Be Packed until it is 
thoroughly cooled. 

590. Do Not Camp under dead trees; they may be 
blown down on you. 

591 Match Safe.— Into an unprimed 10-gauge 
metal shell slip an unprimed 12-gauge shell. 

592. To Care Raw Hides.— This recipe is for 
sheep and buckskins, and may answer for caribou and 
beef skin, taking more time: Take two parts of saltpetre 
and one of alum; pulverize them well together; spread 
the skin carefully, fur side down, before it has got dried; 
apply the mixtures evenly, being careful to touch every 
part in sufficient quantity to thoroughly wet the surface 
after it dissolves; double the flesh side and roll it up 
closely; put it in a cool place, out of the way of the frost, 
and let it remain three or four days or more, according 
to thickness; then unroll, and when it gets nearly dry, 
with a dull knife remove the fat that may adhere in 
spots, and a little rubbing makes it pliable and fit for use. 

593. Mosquito Preventive.— Take of tar— just 
the plain, old-fashioned tar of our fathers— half a pint; 
lard — vaseline is better — half a jjint; oil of pennyroyal, 
half an ounce; creosote, three drops; mix with heat, and 
can or bottle for future use.— ''Kingfisher,^' in Forest and 
Stream. 

594. Waterproof Cape.— Take two yards of heavy 
drilling, 28 or 30 inches wide, cut into two pieces, each 
one yard long, sew together at the selvage, making one 
piece, 50 to 60 inches wide; cut in circular form, making 



206 MISCELLANEOUS. 

the cape long enough to come well down below the waist 
and over the arms to the ends of the coat or shirt sleeves; 
leave out a little over one- third of the circle for the open 
front, cut to fit the neck closely, put in buttonholes and 
buttons down the front, oil heavily with boiled linseed 
oil with a little turpentine and Japan dryer in it. The 
neck may have three or four gores in it to insure a 
snugger fit, but they are not necessary. Make up the 
goods with the twilled side out. Total cost about 25 
cents. — F. R. Webh, in Forest and Stream. 

595. Fleas and Lice on Dogs.— Almost all of 
the various remedies that are recommended for their ex- 
termination will have the desired effect providing they 
are promptly applied. None of them will accomplish 
the purpose unless so applied. The louse is very prolific 
and matures at a very early age, and none of the various 
remedies will destroy the vitality of the egg, no matter 
how thorough has been the war of extermination. It is 
necessary, in order to make a sure job of it, that the work 
be thoroughly done in the first place, and thoroughly re- 
peated at least once a week. Persian insect powder, when 
rightly used, answers the purpose very well, and is per- 
haps the most cleanly and least troublesome method in 
cold weather, but as the powder only stupifies and does 
not kill the insect, it is necessary to follow its applicatic n 
with the fine comb, of course destroying by fire every 
captive. To apply the powder, place the animal upon a 
large sheet of strong paper, and with an insect gun or 
common pepjDer box thoroughly dust the powder into 
every portion of hi, coat, following this with a vigorous 
shampooing until every insect receives its share. Most c f 
them will at once vacate the premises and fall upon the 
paper. Those that remain must be found with the comb 
and all thrown into the fire. This should be repeated 
every three or four days until the parasites all disappear. 

59G. Quassia Water.— An infusion of quassia 



MISCELLANEOUS, 307 

Wood will also destroy lice. Take two or three ounces of 
the chips and tie them up in a muslin bag. Suspend them 
in a pail of water, stirring occasionally. After two hours 
the infusion is ready for use. Apply it freely with 
plenty of soap and rinse off with clear water. Strong 
tobacco water, applied in the same manner, may be used 
with good results, although it is apt to make the animal 
sick. Whale oil, freely used, is also sure death to lice. 
This should be thoroughly washed out of the coat a few 
minutes after using on account of cleanliness. Mercurial 
preparations of all kinds are never to be used for this 
purpose, as bad results are always sure to follow. Neither 
can kerosene be recommended, for the same reason. 

597. Care of Kennels —It is absolutely necessary 
that the kennel and bedding be attended to or all of your 
labor will be in vain. A good coat of whitewash put on 
hot, taking care to fill up all the cracks, will render your 
kennel almost insect proof. The bedding should be 
changed often. Cedar shavings make the best bed, 
although those of pine will do very well. The bedding 
of dogs which sleep in the house should be frequently 
scalded out in strong soapsuds, and after rinsing in clean 
water, hung in the sun until perfectly dry. By closely 
observing the above rules one can soon rid his kennel of 
both fleas and lice. 

598. Preservings Ferns.— To dry fern leaves so as 
to preserve their color, take dry sand, place leaves thereon 
and sift a layer of an inch or so of sand on the leaves, 
being sure to arrange the leaves flat and neatly. Flowers 
can also be preserved this way. Let the whole remain 
till the leaves are dry. Keep sand in moderately warm 
room. 

599. Preserving Autumn Leaves.— Place the 
leaves between sheets of blotting paper, taking care 
they do not touch each other. Then at intervals of 



208 MISCELLANEOUS. 

about six of the papers lay either a folded newspaper or 
a piece of card board. When all the leaves are arranged 
place the papers containing them upon a smooth board 
with >another board on top, and on that a heavy weight. 
Let them remain in a warm room for a day, then re- 
place them in dry, fresh papers and keep this up for four 
or live days. 

600. A Shanty-Made Insect Hood.— We took a 
spare rubber blanket and cut out a cap in shape similar 
to the soldier's havelock, with oval opening large enough 
to allow plenty of room for the face, and with cape about 
eight inches long. Then we took a witchhopple stick, 
bent it around and sewed it in the rim of the opening. 
We should have used wire if we could have obtained it, 




but did not have time to run down to the store for it, as 
it was about sixty miles from us. Then with some hoop- 
skirt wire, which some unfortunate female had left 
in our shanty, we bowed out a piece from the fore- 
head to the chin, and then transversely, sewing it firmly 
in its place; then over this a covering of mull or netting, 
and your cap is complete. This is the only thing that I 
have found to keep off insects and insure a good night's 
sleep. You can lie in any position, it is not uncomfor- 
table, and serves also as a night cap. The cape should 
be securely tucked under the coat collar, and tied snugly 



MISCELLANEOUS. 309 

around the throat. By using a very fine veil over the 
opening of your cap, the punkies can be euchred in the 
same way. I think oil silk would be better than rubber 
cloth. We all tried this last summer, and I used my old 
one this summer, and money would not buy it if I could 
not get another one. — Correspondence Forest and Stream. 

601. Oruitliologists' T eriwii. — Auricidars, ear 
coverts, soft feathers that cover the ears; bastard iving, 
three or five-feathered, resembling the quills of the true 
wing, placed on a small bone rising from the wrist joint 
of the wing; lesser coverts, feathers found in successive 
rows on the wings — those on the inside are termed under 
coverts; greater coverts, large wing feathers lying under 
the lesser coYerts; primaries, large quill feathers growing 
from below the wrist joint; secondaries or second quill 
feathers spring from second bone of the wing, appearing 
when the wing is extended like a continuation of the 
primaries; tertiaries or third quill feathers also rise from 
the second bone, but much nearer the elbow joint; scapu- 
lars or shoulder feathers, soft, downy feathers that cover 
the shoulder bones; rump feathers and upper tail coverts, 
continuations of the covering of the back; ve7it feathers 
and under tail coverts, feathers extending from the arms 
to the tail underneath; loral space, space between the bill 
and eje;frons, the forehead; occiput, hind part of head; 
flexure, bend of the wings: tarsi, shanks of the legs; tibia, 
thigh; upper and loicer mandibles or superior and inferior 
max/ZZcE, the upper and lower bills; ins (irides), colored 
circle surrounding pupil of the eye; mentum, the chin; 
guttur, the throat; collum, the neck; pectus, the breast. 

002. Moulting- of Birds.— Birds moult or shed 
their entire plumage once or twice a year. The moulting 
is very gradual, and few birds are ever so bare of plum- 
age as to prevent their flying. Some birds moult in late 
summer, some in early fall and some in early spring. 
Summer and fall moulting is always the most complete. 



210 MISCELLANEOUS. 

Birds which go north to breed receive their fresh plum- 
age immediately after the period of incubation has 
passed. 

603. Tlie Scow. — The scow (Fig. 1), may be built 
in a few hours and at an expense of two or three dollars 
only. A few common boards of pine, spruce, or almost 
any wood, can readily be obtained, 13 feet long, 10 inches 
wide and 1 inch thick. To construct a boat to carry two or 
three persons, four or five boards \\\\\ be necessary. Two 
of these should be selected and a length of 10 feet sawn 
from each. The edges of these pieces are now planed or 




Ftg. 1— Scow. 

"jointed" up straight and square to the sides, the latter 
being either planed or left rough. These two side pieces 
{a) are laid one on the other, and two or three small nails 
driven through them to hold them temporarily together, 
and the outline of the side is now marked on the upper 
one. The upper edge of the boat will be straight, the 
bottom will be straight for 5 feet amidships, and at each 
end for 2 feet 6 inches will slant upward until the end 
pieces of the boat (b h) are but 4 inches deep. The two 
boards are now sawn to shape and planed square on the 
ends and the slanting portions of the bottom, then they 
may be taken apart. Each end piece will be 3 feet long, 



MISCELLANEOUS. 311 

or longer if a wider boat is required, and 4^ inches wide in 
the rough. The upper edges are planed up, and the sides 
are each nailed to the ends, using eight-penny nails, or 
ten-penny if the stuff is over f inch thick. The frame is 
now turned bottora up, the two end pieces are planed on 
their bottom edges to correspond with the bevel of the 
bottom, then a sufficient number of pieces to cover the 
bottom are sawn off the remaining boards. In this case 
they will each be 3 feet 2 inches long. Their edges are 
carefully "jointed up" straight and square, and they are 
nailed in place across the bottom. When all are nailed on, 
the ends may be planed down even with the sides of the 
boat. To stiffen the bottom a strip 5 inches wide and f 
to 1 inch thick (see i, Fig. 2) is laid down the center of 
the bottom inside and nailed with wrought or clinch 
nails to each plank, the nails being driven through and 
their points clinched or turned in, using a hammer and 
an iron set. About 2 feet at each end will be covered 
with a deck, as at h, Fig. 2. One seat will be put in for 
rowing, being supported on two cleats, one nailed to each 
side. Iron rowlocks (cost seventy-five cents per pair) are 
better than wooden ones, but if they are not to be had, 
the latter can be made of oak. A cleat of oak 1^ inches 
thick, 2 inches deep and 9 inches long is then screwed 
along the inside of the gunwale. In each cleat two mor- 
tises are cut, 1^ inches long, I inch wide and 3^ inches 
apart. The rowlocks are each 7 inches long, ^- inch thick, 
2 inches wide above the cleat and 14- inches \^ ide in the 
mortises, projecting 4 inches above the gunwale and 3 
inches below. If all the joints are neatly made, the boat 
should be tight after being in the water a short time; but 
it is always best to paint or tar the entire boat, in^^ide and 
out, preserving the wood and lessening the chance of 
leakage. In no case should caulking be needed in a new 
boat. If the builder desires, each edge can be painted as 
the board is put in place, which will still further prevent 
any leakage. 



212 



MI8CELLANE0 US. 



604. The Punt.— The punt, as it is commonly called 
(Fig. 2), is a scow of rather better design than the one 
described above, but the operations of building are simi- 
lar. Such a boat may be 14 to 16 feet long, 4 feet beam 
at gunwale, 3 feet 4 inches at bottom, and the sides 14 
inches deep. The sides (//) will each be a little longer 
than the length of the completed boat, 14 inches v/ideand 
f inch thick. They should be free from knots and 
sap wood, and as nearly alike as possible, so as to bend 



.rz3. 













fl_ 





— _ 


. _ 




/ 




/' 






^' 




1^ 


L 









J. 



-/- / 



-/- 




Fia. 2— Punt, 

equally. One is laid on two benches, the outline of the 
boat is marked out as shown, the ends sweeping upward 
in easy curves, and it is sawn and planed to shape. It is 
then laid on the second board, the two are lightly nailed 
together, and the latter planed to match, a center line 
being marked on both while nailed together. The two 
end pieces (cc) are next sawn cut of 1 inch oak or ash, the 
ends being beveled, as the bottom cf the boat throughout 
will be narrower than the top. Next a piece (c?) 14 to 16 
inches wide and 4 feet long is sawn off and the ends 
beveled, making it 4 feet long on the upper edge and 3 
feet 4 inches near the lower. The two small projections 
(ee) are left, to aid in setting the side correctly. This 
board or mould is placed on edge, one side board is laid 



MISCELLANEOUS, 213 

in jDlace against it at the center mark, and a fewnailuare 
driven through the side board into the end of the piece. 
Now the other side is fitted in the same manner. The three 
pieces resting on a level floor, the corresponding ends of 
the side pieces are drawn together with ropes until the end 
pieces will just fit between, then the sides are nailed or 
screwed to the ends. The best way to do this is to bore 
the holes and fit each side in turn to its corresponding 
end piece, putting in the screws before the sides are 
nailed to the mould (the pieces after fitting being taken 
apart); then when the ends are finally in place there is no 
trouble in holding and adjusting them, the screws being 
reinserted in the holes already bored. When sides and 
ends are well fastened together, both of the frames should 
have the same degree of curve, and the entire frame 
should be true and symmetrical. The lower edges of the 
sides having been planed square, now require to be bev- 
eled slightly, on account of the outward flare of the sides. 
To do this a piece of board, one of those cut for the bot- 
tom, is laid across and used as a guide, the outer corner 
of each edge, both of sides and ends, being planed off 
until the board lies flat across all the edges. The bottom 
boards are now cut to length and nailed in place, the 
edges of each being very carefully planed up to fit its 
neighbors. When the bottom is on, the ends are planed 
off even with the side of the boat, it is turned over and a 
sirlp (i) 5 inches wide is nailed down the middle of the 
bottom, as in the previous boat. This strip will be 1 inch 
thick at its center, but toward the ends it may diminish 
to ^ inch, so as to bend more easily to the curve of the 
bottom. When it is in, the ends are decked over for 2 
or 3 feet, as at h h. Two thwarts or seats (j j) will be 
put in, each 9 inches wide and 1 inch thick. They should 
be placed about 7 inches below the gunwale, and each end 
will rest on a short piece nailed to the side of the boat, 
long enough to reach from the bottom to the wider side 
of the seat. The seats should be secured well to the sides, 



214 MISCELLANEOUS. 

as they serve to stiffen the boat. A gunwale strip is usu- 
ally run around the outer edge. It may be of oak f inch 
wide and II inches thick, screwed to the side pieces. 
Rowlocks and stretchers complete the boat. It will, how- 
ever, be easier to row straight if a skag be added to the 
after end. A stern post of oak, Ixli inches, is nailed 
down the center of the end, and in the angle between it 
and the bottom is fitted a piece of 1-inch board (o, Fig. 3) 
nailed to it and the bottom. On the stern post a rudder 
may be hung if desired. 

60o. The Skiff.— In this boat the after end is similar 
to the previous one, but the bow is very different, resem- 
bling more a round-bottomed boat. The sideboards are 
marked and cut as in the former boat, but at the fore end 
they are not cut up at all, but are sawn off at a slight 
bevel to tit the forward rake of the stem {k I shows the 
sideboard in the rough, with the side marked out). The 
gunwale will have a slight sheer, part of it being due to 
the bending of the sideboards, but to increase it the upper 
edges are made a little hollow, their concavity being from 
1 to 2 inches, according to the sheer desired. A middle 
mould is cut out similar to d, and a. so a stern piece, the 
latter of 1 irxh oak. It is fitted and screwed to each side- 
board in turn, then it is taken off, the sideboards are 
nailed to the mould along the lines A B, and the stern- 
board is replaced and screwed fast. Now the two side.^ 
are drawn together with a rope at their fore-ends until 
they nearly or quite meet, as at t. and a pie^ e of oak of 
triangular form (r) is cut to fit in the angle between them, 
and they are screwed fast to it. The bend of the sides 
will cause the bottom of the boat to have considerable 
rocker, usually much more than is desirable. To avoid 
this, when the frame is thus far completed, 'le bottom 
edges of both sideboards are planed down from m to n, 
until the bottom is straight for some distance amidships. 
This can best be determined by setting the frame, top uj> 



MI8CELLANE0 US. 



215 



ward, on a level floor. When the edges are planed off 
equally they must be beveled, as in the preceding boat, 
the floor is nailed on, the middle piece is put in and 




nailed down, and the thwarts put in. Both in bow and 
stern there will also be seats at about 3 inches below gun- 
wale and of the shape shown. To complete the bow, the 
ends of the sideboards are planed off, and another trian- 



216 MISCELLANEOUS. 

gular piece of oak (s) is sawn out and nailed against the 
ends and the piece r, as shown, making a sharp bow. A 
scag (o) is also added, wale strips are put on, and the boat 
is ready for painting. Such a boat may have a center- 
board, and may also be fitted with sails in the same man- 
ner as an ordinary round-bottomod boat. 

606. To Build an Ice Yacht.— The body, or boat 
proper, is made up of three principal parts — the keel or 
center timber, and two side timbers. The keel is 24 feet 6 
inches long, 3 inches wide, and 9 inches deep. The two side 
timbers are each 2^ inches wide and 4 inches deep. They 
are joined at the stern to a semi-circle of 15 inches radius, 
and at the mast by means of a curved plank 13 inches 
wide, 3 inches deep, and 7 feet 4 inches long, which is 
bolted to them. The runner plank, to which the two for- 
ward runners are bolted, and which is bolted to the under 
side of the side timbers and running under the keel, which 
projects about an inch below the side timbers. The run- 
ners are three in number, two forward and one aft (called 
the rudder), are made of 2-inch plank, and have steel 
shoes bolted to them by means of bolts tapped into the 
shoe and running through.the wood, having their heads 
countersunk therein so as to be flush. The shoes are 
fastened by 5|-inch bolts tapped into them; they are 
ground on the running edge to an angle of 90% and are 
If inches deep. The after runner, or rudder, is smaller 
than the forward ones, and is fastened to a rudder post, 
which passes through the keel and terminates in a tiller, 
2 feet 8 inches long, by which the boat is steered. The 
body is plmked on the under side with inch boards for a 
distance of about 7 feet from the after end. The mast is 
20 feet high, 5 inches in diameter at the foot and 8^ 
inches at the top, and has a topmast fixed into the top 3 
feet long, 2 inches in diameter at the large and 1 inch at 
the small end. The bowsprit is IG feet long, 6 inches 
deep at the widest part and 3^ at the ends, and is 3 inches 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



31'! 




wide on the bottom, beveling to 2 Inches on the top. It 
is fastened to the keel bv means of an iron band three 
quarters of an inch wide, and also by a bolt running 



218 MISCELLANEOUS, 

through both. The boom is 39 feet long, 4^ inches in 
diameter in the center, and 2^ inches at the ends. It is 
fastened aft of the mast by means of an eye and a staple. 
The jibboom is 15 feet 3 inches long, 2\ inches in diameter 
at the center, and 2 inches at the ends, and is fastened to 
the forward end of the bowsprit. The gaff is 8 feet 9 
inches long, 2 inches in diameter, and has the jaws made 
to an angle, so that they set square across the mast. 
The sails are two in number, the mainsail and the jib. 
The mainsail has the following dimensions: Hoist, 14 
feet 6 inches; foot, 28 feet; head, 8 feet; leach, 28 feet; 
the lift of the mainsail at the end of the boom is 1 foot 6 
inches. The dimensions of the jib are as follows: Hoist, 
15 feet; foot, 14^ feet; leach 22 feet; and it has a lift of 1 
foot. The rigging is of half -inch round iron and wire 
rope. — ScientifiG American. 

607. Sinkboat. — The dimensions, material, etc., to 
be used in constructing a sinkboat are as follows: The 
box in platform should be made of f-inch best white pine; 
or still better, white cedar, if to be had. The ends of box 
should be of white oak, 1^ inches thick. The box should 
be 5 feet 10 inches long, in the clear (this will accommo- 
date any man not over 6 feet in height, as both his knees 
and neck are bent in lying in the position to shoot) 15 
inches deep in clear and 22 inches wide, sides straight 
perpendicularly, but sprung together at ends to 14 inches 
at head and foot. The simplest way is to make the bjx 
the same depth all over, but it is by no means the best 
way. The foot should be of full depth, viz., 15 inches. 
Cut away the head of box to, say, 6 inches, because the 
shooter, in lying down, has to have his eyes above the 
level of the box in order to watch the flight of the fowl, 
so that very little depth is required at the head. The box 
should be put together in the very best manner, as on its 
being perfectly tight depends the comfort of the shooter. 
Make a ^-inch drain board to be in bottom of box, and 



MISCELLANEO US. 



219 



V 






->- 



"P-I/O/JO/ 




220 MISCELLANEOUS. 

the sink is completed so far as the box is concerned. 
Around the box is built the "platform," as follows: 
Have two oak carlings cut out 6 feet long, 1^ inches 
thick and 2^ irches wide in the middle, tapering off to 
about 1^ inches at ends with 1 inch spring or 1^ at most. 
Bolt these securely to ends of box, 1 inch below the top. 
You are now ready to put on the platform or deck. This 
should be of f-inch white pine or cedar, 6 feet wide and 
10 feet long, the seams of the deck to be well fitted to- 
gether and especially made tight where it fits round the 
box, which will project above the deck ^ inch. On each 
end of deck, nail on a batten of ^-inch strip, 3 inches 
wide, on under side of deck. At the head of platform is 
the head wing, which should be made of three 3-1- inch 
pine or cedar boards, each 12 inches wide, and fastened 
together by strong iron straps, with hinges at each board, 
and also where the wing joins the platform. These 
hinges should be so arranged as to give the board com- 
posing the wing free play to swing down at right angle 
with platform, and to fold back on top of same, tack 
loosely so as not to interfere with swing of wing, strips of 
heavy drill or duck (of color as nearly resembling as pos- 
sible the water the boat is to be used in) over each crack 
between wing board and between inner wing board and 
platform. This completes the head wing. Side wings to 
be of |-inch pine or cedar boards, two on each side, each 
board 8 or 10 inches wide and connected together and 
with platform by three heavy sole-leather hinges in such 
a manner as to give free play with platform with the 
strips of drill or duck nailed over the head wing. In 
addition to the battens nailed under the platform 
there should be one on each side of box amidships on 
under side of platform, which should be braced to box 
by an iron ell. The ends of all these battens should 
project beyond the sides of the platform about an inch, 
so that the side wings will have something to rest on, as 
the leather hinges must be long enough to let them fold 



MISCELLANEOUS. 231 

over the foot wing when the boat is folded up. The foot 
wing should be made like the side wings, extending 
across the foot of box, or a single board 11 to 16 inches 
wide can be used at foot. Connecting the wings at each 
of the four corners are triangular pieces of lead-colored 
duck, or heavy drill, tacked to the wings and having a 
stout cord sewed to their outer edges; on cord use small 
corks to keep the corner pieces on top of the water cs 
much as possible. The leads consist of two rows of sheet 
lead from 4 to 5 inches wide, the inner row to be tacked 
round the edge of box along the inner edge of the lead in 
such a manner that the outer edge can be bent up to keep 
the sea out. The outer row of lead is nailed round the 
platform half way between the box and the edge of the 
platform all round. Paint box, platform and wings as 
near the color of the water in which the box is to 
be used as possible. The sink is to be moored by 
two anchors, one at the head and one at the foot. 
For head anchor two holes should be bored at head 
carling, about 15 inches from each end, and a rope 
knotted through these holes making a 'bridle" about 10 
feet long. The anchor rope should be made fast to the 
bight of this bridle. This lets the head of box ride free 
in a sea. For stern anchor bore a hole in the platform 
near the edge at foot and let the anchor rope pass through 
this. This enables the shooter to trip his stern anchor 
(which should be a light one) in case of a sudden shift of 
wind so that the box will swing head in. At Havre de 
Grace they use a light frame for side and foot wings, 
with drill or tickings stretched over them. These plat- 
forms are generally larger also, the usual dimensions 
there being 12x7 feet, but the board wings are better 
than the canvas or drill, and the 6x10 platforms quite 
large enough. In the above sinkboat about 200 pounds 
of weight in addition to the man will have to be used. 
Have iron decoys cast, each weighing from 25 to 30 
pounds. These are set in the platform with wooden de- 



2^^ 



MJSCELLANEO US. 



coys of about one-third the usual thickness. The bodies 
should not be more than 2 inches high and flat on the 
bottom. Use also light wooden decoys on wings with a 
"stool" of about 200.— ''Sinkhoaf in Forest and Stream. 

608. Sneak Box or Baruegat Duck Boat.— 

Length, 12 feet; width midships, 4 feet; width of stern, 
2 feet 9 inches; depth of stern, 7 inches. Sprung tim- 
bers all of one pattern, iijXlf inch; distance apart, 8 
inches; deck timbers natural bend, 1 inchxl inch. Cock- 




b>. 



4 Ft. 



Fig. 4, 




a, a— apron. 1, 1. 1 gbows where it is nailed to deck, fc, h— 
Cockpit, c— Trunk, d!, d, d— Stool rack, e, e— Rowlocks. Fig. 4 
shows rowlocks. 



pit, inside measurement, length 3 feet 4 inches, width at 
bow and stern, 18^ inches, amidships 19 inches. Comb- 
ing, height of inside at bow and stern, 2| inches, mid- 
ships, 2 inches. From bottom of combing to top of ceil- 



MISCELLANEOUS. 323 

ing, 13 inches. Trunk on i^ort side, set slanting to take a 
15-inch board trunk placed alongside and abaft of for- 
ward corner of combing. Boards for boats, white cedar, 
^} inch thick, deck, narrow strips tongued and grooved. 
Rowlocks, height G inches, from coaming 9 inches, middle 
of to stern, 4 feet 7 inches, made to fold down inboard 
and to fasten up with a hook. Stool rack runs from row- 
locks to stern, notched at ends into fastenings of row- 
locks, also notched at corners and hooked together, rest 
against a cleat on deck outside, and are hooked to the 
deck inside. In a heavy sea the apron is used. It is held 
up by a stick from peak to combing. Thus rigged the 
boat has the reputation of being able to live as long as 
oars can be pulled. The apron is tacked to the deck 
about two-thirds its length. The wings are fastened to 
the top and bottom of the rowlocks. Mast hole 2| inches, 
2 inches from coaming. Drop of sides from top of deck, 
5| inches; deadrise, 8 inches. Over cockpit a hatch is 
placed. Everything connected with the boat is placed 
inside, gunners often leaving their guns, &c., locking the 
hatch fast. The boats sail well and covered with sedge 
are used to shoot from. With the hatch on, a person cm 
be protected from rain, and with blankets, can be accom- 
modated with a night's lodging. 

609. A Knot is a nautical mile, or G086.7ft. 

610. Life Preservers. — There are numerous s^tylfs 
of boat cushions, made of hair, cork and other buoyant 
materials, which will answer as life preservers, and 
prudence dictates that some such provision should always 
be made for accidents on the water. 

611. Hunting' Hatchet.— The pike is square, hole 
the same, just back of the head, so as to fit the wrench. 
The head may be used in and around camp, putting up 
bunks, etc. And when you go on a hunt, l^y the proper 
application of the wrench, you can in a very short time 



224 



MISCELLANEO US. 



have a hatchet that will be of great use, should you wish 
to climb a tree, dig a hole, go prospecting or administer 
the coup de grace to a badly wounded buck or bear. 




The hatchet is not patented. Mine is made of finest 
steel, and in such a way that the head will not jam or 
stick. — G, A. Scroggs in Forest and Stream. 

The Best Hint of All.— Most of these have been 
taken from the Forest and Stream. If you are not fa- 
miliar with that weekly journal of Shooting, Fishing, 
Travel, Natural History, Fishculture, the Kennel, Yacht- 
ing, Canoeing, and Rifle and Trap Shooting, send 10 cts. 
for a sample copy. Terms, $4 per year. Forest and 
Stream Publishing Company, 318 Broadway, New York, 



BRIEF LIST OF BOOKS 

PUBLISHED BY 

Forest and Stream Pub. Co., 

318 BROADWAY, NEW YORK, 

And sent post-paid on receipt of p} ice. Descriptive Catalogues 
mailed free to any address. 



American Fishes. G. Brown Goode. This is by far 
the most popular work which has ever been published on 
the Fishes of America, and is a book that no angler who 
takes pleasure in knowing the fishes which afford him sport 
can afford to miss. 500 pages, profusely illustrated. Price, 
$5.00. 

Book of the Black Bass. Henshall. Dr. Henshall's 
Monograph is the standard work on the Black Bass and all 
that relates to it. Cloth, 470 pages. Price, $3.00. 

Canoe and Boat Building". Fourth and Enlarged 
Edition. By W. P. Stephens. A complete manual for 
amateurs. Containing plain and comprehensive directions 
for the construction of canoes, rowing and sailing boats, 
and hunting craft. With numerous illustrations and fifty 
plates of working drawings. 264 pages, the plates in an 
envelope. Price, $2.00. 

Canoe Handling. By C. Bowyer Vaux ("Dot"). A 
complete manual for the management of the canoe. The 
author, knowing just what the novice needs, begins at the 
very beginning, explaining the rudiments in the plainest 
way possible. Cloth, 160 pages. Price, $1.00. 



Canvas Canoes and How to Build Them. By 

Parker B. Field. The directions are as plain and ex- 
plicit as possible for the construction of a canoe 13ft. X27in. 
at an expense not to exceed $7.00. Illustrated. Paper, 48 
pages. Price, 50 cents. 

Yachts, Boats and Canoes. With Special Chapters 
ON Model Yachts and Singlehanded Sailing. By C. 
Stanfield-Hicks. Numerous illustrations and diagrams, 
and working drawings of model yachts and various small 
craft suitable for amateurs. Contains much that is valu- 
able and interesting to yachtsmen and canoeists. 8vo. 
Cloth, 380 pages and 16 large folding plates. Price, $3.50. 

Small Yachts. By C. P. Kunhardt. Small Yachts: 
Their design and construction, exemplified by the ruling 
types of modern practice. With numerous plates and 
illustrations. This book is intended to cover the field of 
small yachts, with special regard to their design, construc- 
tion, equipment and keep. Cloth, 370 pages of type and 
illustrations and 70 plates. Size of page i4^Xi2J^in. 
Price, $7.00. 

Camp and Canoe Cookery. By "Seneca." A prac- 
tical cook book for canoeists, Corinthian sailors and outers. 
Most so-called camp cookery books are a delusion and a 
snai'e, but this one is thoroughly practical and helpful. 
Cloth, 96 pages. Price, $1.00. 

Steam Yachts and Launches; Their Machinery 
AND Management. By C. P. Kunhardt. A Review 
of the Steam Engine as Applied to Yachts; Theory of the 
Steam Engine; Boiler Efiiciency; The Engine and its 
Parts; The Screw; Laws Applicable to Steam Yachts; Ex- 
tracts from Lloyd's Rules; Racing Steam Yachts; Manage- 
ment and Care of Machinery; Principal Types of Yacht 
Machinery; The Design of Hulls; Addenda; Tables, etc. 
96 illustrations. Cloth, 240 pages. Price, $3.00. 

Steam Machinery and Internal MaDagement 
OF Steam Yachts and Launches, Donaldson. 125 
pages. Price, $1.50. 



Voyag-e of the "Aurora.** Bv Dr. C. A. Neide. A 
charmingly written log of a canoe cruise from Lake George, 
New York, down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers to the 
Gulf of Mexico. Cloth. Price, $i.oo. 

Frazer's Boat Sailing. Management of small boats 
and yachts under all circumstances. Cloth. Price, $r.oo. 

Knots, Ties and Splices. A Hand-book for Seafarers, 
Travelers and all who use Cordage. Cloth, loi pages. 
Price, 75 cents. 

Yachtsman's Souvenir. 225 photogravure plates of 
steam and sailing yachts, with descriptive index of design, 
builder, owner, etc. Price, $4.00. 

Dogs, Their Management and Treatment in 

Diseases. By Ashmont. This is one of the most 
valuable treatises on canine management and therapeutics 
that has appeared on this side of the water. Cloth, 208 
pages. Price, $2.00. 

Diseases of Dogs. Hugh Dalziel, the author, is one 
of the first British authorities on dogs. Mr. Dalziel's work 
is justly ranked among the most important of those devoted 
to canine matters. Cloth, 116 pages. Price, 80 cents. 

First liCSSons in Training. With Points and Stan- 
dards OF all Breeds of Dogs. — This has the first two 
chapters of Hammond's "Training vs. Breaking," printed 
in this shape in response to a call for a cheap book. It 
gives also " Stonehenge's" points for judging dogs, and 
standards adopted by specialty clubs; it is the only compil- 
ation that is complete to date. Paper, 106 pages. Price, 
50 cents. 

Breeders' and Exhibitors' Kennel Record. A 

blank book of great value to owners of kennels, enabling 
them to keep a perfect record of the pedigree of their stock, 
the prizes won, stud visits, expense account, and many 
other items of interest. Price, 3.00. Sample pages on ap- 
plication, 

3 



Training vs. Breaking. By S. T. Hammond. This is 
a book for dog owners, who by its directions can success- 
fully train their hunting dogs. It teaches how to bring out 
the wonderful intelligence of the dog by an entirely novel 
method, in which kindness is substituted for the whip. 
Has a chapter on the training of pet dogs, and another on 
the care and management of puppies. Price, $i.oo. 

Monographs on Dogs: 

The Collie — Its History, Points, Breeding and Rear- 
ing. By Hugh Dalziel. Illustrated. Cloth, 58 pages. 
Price, $1.00. 

The Fox-Terrier. — Its History, Points, Breeding and 
Rearing. By Hugh Dalziel. 92 pages. Price, $1.00. 

The St. Bernard, — Its History, Points, Breeding and 
Rearing. By Hugh Dalziel. The frontispiece of this 
volume is a life-colored portrait of the famous Plinlimmon 
recently imported into this country. Cloth, 132 pages. 
Price, $1.25. 

The Greyhound, — Its History, Points, Breeding, Rear- 
ing, Training and Running. By Hugh Dalziel. Cloth, 88 
pages. Colored plates. Price, $1.25. 

History of the Mastiff. By M. B. Wynn. Mr. 
Wynn is the recognized leading authority on the mastiff in 
England. Cloth, 222 pages. Price, $2.50. 

Pocket Kennel Record. A handy and convenient 
little book, with blanks for all kennel memoranda, pedi- 
grees, visits, sales, etc., etc., those particulars which, when 
one has forgotten, he would sometimes give dollars to re- 
call. Price, 50 cents. 

Cliarley's Wonderful Journeys. By C. F. Amery. 
This volume tells the story of Charley's Several Journeys 
into Dreamland. Profusely illustrated. Cloth. Imperial 
8vo. 116 pages. Price, $1.50. 

The Still-Hunter. By T. S. Van Dyke. A practical 
treatise of deer stalking. 390 pages. Price, $2.00. 
4 



Nessmuk's Poems. Forest Runes. By George W. 
Sears (Nessmuk). Poems on woodland subjects, and a 
wide range of other topics, grave and gay. Large octavo, 
handsomely printed, with artotype portrait of Nessmuk. 
Cloth, 208 pages. Price, $1.50. 

Woodcraft. By "Nessmuk." A book for the guidance of 
those who go for pleasure to the woods. It is just the 
thing that thousands of novices are looking, for, and gives 
them just the advice and practical information they want. 
Cloth. Price, $1.00. 

Our New Alaska; Or, The Seward Purchase Vindi- 
cated. By Charles Hallock. Mr. Hallock's personal 
investigations in Alaska have resulted in the collection of a 
great amount of material on a variety of topics. He treats 
of the country — its past and present; of its resourses — its 
timber, its mines, its fisheries and its fur trade; of the In- 
dian question, of the government, of the natural history, 
the scenery and of sport. Cloth, 200 pages. Illustrated. 
Price, $1.50. 

Uncle Liislia's Shop ; Or, Life in a Corner of Yankee 
Land. By Rowland E. Robinson. A charming series 
of character sketches. In the chapters figure Uncle Lisha, 
Aunt Jerusha, Sam Lovel and his dog Drive, Antoine, 
Solon Briggs, Huldah and other Danvis folk, whose names 
have long been household words with readers of the Forest 
and Stream. Cloth. Price, |i.oo. 

Sam Lovel's Camps. Uncle Lisha's Friends Under 
Bark and Canvas. A sequel to "Uncle Lisha's Shop." 
By Rowland E. Robinson. An inimitable pc a-aying of 
the woods and village life of Danvis folk. Cloth, 253 
pages. Price, $1.00. 

«* Forest and Stream Fables." A series of seven 
fables in prose and to every one a picture. All of them 
have pith and point best appreciated by anglers and sports- 
men, but not one is without a moral for the wise and foolish 
of the world in general. Paper. Price, 10 cents, 



Antelope and Deer of America. By John Dean 
Caton, L.L.D. a book written by a sportsman for sports- 
men, and by a naturalist for naturalists. It recounts deer- 
hunting experienccj and adventures, and describes the dif- 
ferent hunting methods used by sportsmen. Fully illus- 
trated; 426 pages. Price, $2.50. 

The Forest Waters the Farm ; Or, The Value of 
Woodlands as Reservoirs. A series of conversations 
between a farmer and a schoolmaster, showing the influence 
of forests upon water supply of farm fields. Cloth. Price, 
75 cents. 

Sportsmen's Paradise; Or, The Lake Lands of 
Canada. Illustrated by Beard. Cloth. Price, $3.50. 

Adirondack Tales. By W. H. H. Murray. These 
stories are full of the subtile charms of Mr. Murray's indi- 
viduality. Illustrated. Cloth, 300 pages. Price $1.25. 

Adventures in the Wilderness; Or, Camp Life in 

the Adirondacks. By W. H. H. Murray. This work 
is very picturesque and amusing. Illustrated. Cloth. Price, 

$1.25. 

Wing- and Glass Ball Shooting- With the Rifle. 

By H. C. Bliss. This is an invaluable work for the young 
sportsman who aims at making a record as a marksman. 
Price, 50 cents. 

Names and Portraits of Birds. By Gurdon Trum- 
bull. Mr. Trumbull's new book on game birds is written 
on a plan which is entirely different from that of any book 
on birds hitherto published. 90 illustrations. Cloth, 222 
pages. Price, $2.50. 

Wild Fowl Shooting. By Leffingwell. Mr. LefT- 
ingwell has gained by life-long devotion to the sport of 
wild fowl shooting a knowledge of the ways of the game, 
the modes of securing it, and the thousand and one details 
which go to make up the pursuit of fowling. Illustrated, 
Cloth, 373 pages. Price, $2.50. Half morocco, $3.50. 



Pawnee Hero Stories and Folk-Tales ; With 
Notes on the Origin, Character and Customs of 
THE Pawnee People. By George Bird Grinnell. 
This is a most charming collection of stories as told by the 
Indians; tales of love, war, hunting, adventure and mystery. 
The book presents the Indian in an entirely new, because 
true, light; it gives a faithful portraiture of him as a man, 
and pictures, as no other book has ever done, the Indian as 
he actually is, in his lodge, on the warpath and on the 
'hunt. The stories were taken down just as they were told, 
and are given without dressing up. They will surprise and 
please the reader by the wit, sentiment and human nature 
displayed in them. Illustrated. Price, $1.50, 

Log" Cabins ; How to Build and Furnish Them. By 
William S. Wicks. The book is thoroughly practical. 
Every step in the process of construction is explained. 
Flans are given for cabins, large and small, with details of 
exterior and interior finish; and there are also some very 
useful directions for constructing temporary shelters — the 
Indian camp, brush camp, Indian wigwam, brush house 
and bark camp. The furnishing consists of tables, chairs, 
bedsteads and other articles, all made of the material at 
hand, and all in keeping with the style of the house. The 
illustrations are numerous. Price, $1.50. 

Shore Birds. A pamphlet for those who "gun" along the 
shore. Tells of — I. Haunts and Habits. II. Range and 
Migration. III. A morning without the Birds. IV. Nom- 
enclature. V. Localities. VI. Blinds and decoys. Paper. 
Price, 15 cents. 

Some Native Birds for Little Folks. By Dr. W. 

Van Fleet. Illustrated by How^ard H. Darnell. 
Cloth, 146 pages, fourteen photogravure plates. Price, 
$3- 00. 

Complete American Trapper Tricks of Trap- 
ping- and Trap making-. By W. H. Gibson. Il- 
lustrated. Cloth. Price, $1.00. 
? 



Trajectories of Hunting Kifles. A full report of the 
Forest and Stream Trajectory Test. This was the most 
elaborate and careful trial of the trajectories of hunting 
rifles ever undertaken, and the results embody a vast fund 
of practical information about the principles of rifle shoot- 
ing. Paper. Illustrated. Price, 50 cents. 

Gunsmiths' Manual. A complete handbook for the 
American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches 
of the trade. Numerous engravings. Cloth. Price, $2.00. 

The Modern American Pistol and Revolver 

and how to use it. Illustrated. Cloth. Price, $1.00. 

Practical Taxidermy and Home Decoration. 

By Batty. Containing chapters on the care of guns, col- 
lecting and preparing and mounting skins of animals, birds 
and fish, etc. Cloth, 204 pages. Price, $1.50. 

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NEW YORK OFFICE: 29 MURRAY STREET. 

BRANCH OFFICES: 

St. Louis, Mo.; Chicago, III.; Dubuque, Iowa.; Cincinnati, Ohio; 

Baltimore, Md.; Pittsburgh, Pa.; Denver, Col. 

For sale generally throughout the United States. 



Tatham & Brothers, 



MANUFACTURERS 




IMPROVED 

CHILLED 
SHOT 



82 Beekman Street, 



New York, 



ss^^^^T"^^^^ 



^ 




THE HAZARD POWDER CO., 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

GUNPOWDER 

FOR 

SPORTING, RIFLE AND TARGET USE. 



HAZARD'S "ELECTRIC" POWDER. 

Nos. 1 (fine) to 7 (coarse). Unsux'passea in point of strength and cleanli- 
ness. Packed in square canisters of 1 lb. only. 

HAZARD'S "DUCK" SHOOTING. 

Nos. 1 (fine) to 6 (coarse). In 1 and 5 lb. canisters, and &/i and 12% lb. kegs- 
Burns slowly and very clean, shooting remarkably close, and with great 
penetration. For field, forest or water shooting, it ranks any other brand, 
and is equally serviceable for 

B^^ Muzzle and Breech-Lioader .=^ 

HAZARD'S "KENTUCKY RIFLE." 

FFFG, FFG and "Sea Shooting," FG, in kegs of 23, 12% and 6M lbs., cans of 
5 lbs., and in 1 and J^ lb. canisters. Burns strong and mois^. Tne FFFG and 
FFG are the favorite brands for ordinary sporting, and the 

"SEA SHOOTING, FG," 

IS THE STANDARD RIFLE POWDER OP TILE COUNTRY. 

It was used by the American team at Creedmoor and Dublin, and is now 
universally accepted as the very best for long-range shooting. 

The following distinguished Marksmen recommend and habitually use it: 

Col. BODINE, Major FULTON, Messrs. RATHBONE, JEWELL, HEP- 
BURN, ANDERSON, JUDD, BRUCE, BALLARD, 
FARWELL and others. 
It is well adapted for all classes of breech-loaders, and especially for 
•Remington Long Range (Creedinooi*) Rifles." 
We invite the attention of Sportsmen to 

HAZARD'S "TRAP" POWDER, 

Our latest production. It is strong, moist burning, and combines a maxi- 
mum propelling power with a minimum repoll and strain upon the gun. 
Specially adapted to Trap Shooting, and sold at a moderate price. This 
loowder is meeting with universal favor among expert shots and leading 
gun clubs of the country. 

1^" When ordering f7i6//s insist that they he loaded with Hazard 
Powder. Send for card showing sizes of grain. 

Office, 63 Pine Street, Neiv York. 

R. L. WHEELER, Prbs. GEO. WEIGHTMAN, SeCy. 

WM. S. COLVIN, Vice-Pres. and Tbeas. 

X4 




A HINT. 

Buy a Pliotographic Outfit. 

E. & H. T. ANTHONY & CO., 

591 Broadway, New York. 

Manufacturers and Importers of 

PHOTOGRAPHIC INSTRUMENTS 

I AND SUPPLIES. 

Detective M View Cameras in Great Variety 

Sole Proprietors of 

Front Focus Novelette, Normandie Reversible Back, 

Lilliput, and other Cameras. 

.A.±± tlxo JLMettGsstt ]\ro-\7-elt±es. 

Send for Catalogue or call and examine. 

PMlaJeliia FIsllDS TacHe BoBse. 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

Fine Fishing Tackle. 

A SPECIALTY OF 

The Celebrated Bethabara Wood Fly, Bait, 
Sea and Casting Rods. 

STRONGER THAN SPLIT RAMROO AND ELASTIC AS STEEL 



Shipley's Hoth-Proof Patent Ply Book, etc. 

Send 10 cts. for new 90-page illustrated price list Rods and Tackle. 

A. B, SHIPLEY & SON, 
503 Commerce Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 



15 



PECK & SNYDER, 

124, 126 & 128 Nassau Street, 

NEW YORK. 

HEADQUARTERS TOR ALL. KINDS OF 

SPORTING GOODS 

FISHING TACKLE, 

Fencing Goods, Bass Ball, Lawn Tennis, Archer^^ 
Cricket, Gymnasium Outfits, Etc. 



Best Trout Flies, 75 cents Per Dozen. 

" Bass " $1.50 
Hooks to Gut, 30 cents ** 



Pleasure and Profit. 



THE LATEST AND MOST FASCINATING 
RECREATION. A COPY OF 

"How to Make PliotO£raplis," 

With DescriptivetCatalogue, 

Sent without charge to any one interested 
in Amateur Ptiotographj'. 

Tie Scofill k kUm Co, 

Manufacturers of and Dealers in 

Photographic Materials, 

423 Broome St., N. Y. 

Amateur Outfits supplied from $2.50 up- 
ward m price, with wliich PiCTURBS of 
the highest excellence can be made. 




